lowrentdiscographer

Thanks Richard. I've just been in the back garden, made a saw fence and cut up a sheet of ply into the major pieces. I was hoping to do a bit of a noddy-spec how-to, but it was just too cold to be messing about and the ply needed getting out of the way.

Resurrection! Some ply arrived yesterday. Before I start cutting... I want to make a shallow sacrifice to aesthetics, and it's something I did on the last build without thinking, but I thought I'd run it by the wisdom of the BC crowd this time. I want to extend the front edge of the port top so that it runs flush with all the other front edges of the cab, and ideally the same with the fore-aft port "runners". This deviates from the EV plan, where the port top plate doesn't extend beyond the baffle. Is it the overall port length that is important or the depth it reaches into the box? To achieve what I want, can I extend the port top's front edge, or do I leave it at it's original dims and move the whole port forward. Or do I stop being silly and just leave it as-plan? Thanks, Steve.

Pretty much this. IF I were doing the full new setup thing, I'd still be tempted to self build. But I would probably go for a pair of higher grade 1x12's, for more options of volume and portability. Maybe next year?

I got very similar numbers, and I think represent significant weight savings?

The only thing that stopped me looking deeper at the simplex - I know there is a non-tweeter 1x15 bass cab version in the plan set- is a significant height and width increase over the ev. I've little doubt it would be a great cab, but it would be very tight in it's live-in space. That said I'm not sure I follow the logic of your 2nd point. Ply cost, even nicer stuff, is nowhere near the cost of ply + posh new driver. Still, might be worth thinking about some more.

I don't disagree. However, (and I made this point in another thread)... Guitarists. I'll give mattress topper a whirl in the new build. Ta Steve

Hi Bill. The exact material name I can't remember now, it was a wool-type material but it was made from recycled plastic fibres rather than fibreglass, and it's texture was somewhere between fibreglass insulation and cotton wool. I think at least one problem with the stuff I used is it might have been just too thick, a couple of inches depth at least, and it filled A LOT of the cab space. When I'd lined the sides, back and top, it was like the driver had it's own little fluffy nest to sit in! (There was a picture of this on my original build thread, but the photos have been lost, both from the thread and my originals). Because it's taken more than a decade to break the cab out of my house and into a live band situation, I've never had the need to crank up the volume (other than to very occasionally torment the wife or neighbours) and I wondered if maybe it was being strangled (very haphazard layman-ism) somehow by being over-stuffed. It also occurred that thermally insulating a hard working electromagnet/coil/thingy might not be good. So I pulled it all out in the heat of battle. I ultimately believe that the real problem with my sound is simply we play too loud for the rehearsal space - possibly a bigger example of the sound-wave reflections you describe? I know Bill you have a great deal of experience and produce some very highly regarded designs for various purposes - I gave some consideration to building a pair of your (now discontinued?) Omni 10's as a second build when I finished this first cab, but being as it hasn't really seen the use, there wouldn't have been much point. I do like (having a cheeky go at) making "stuff" - but I'm not really a gear head or GASser and I've no delusion that I'm any sort of audio engineer (Nor a musician, but that's a different conversation). It's like the old adage of a little knowledge being dangerous! When you see peeps doing good work on the interweb it's sometimes a bit too easy to convince yourself to jump in and have a go. My original build requirements were a gig-able high-ish power handling cab for not much outlay, these requirements are not fundamentally different now, with losing a bit of weight being the main one (again, now it's getting frequent use it's biggest shortcoming is ever-more apparent, although it will be less so now tier 4 lockdown is in full effect). This is a bit of a ramble. Sorry! I guess I'm trying to excuse myself for not knowing exactly what I what or how to do it...

Thanks Phil I'll have a look.

In the interest of knowing what we're up against, I thought I'd post a few pics of the current cab. The build is mdf, the joint reinforcement is pine, all joints are screwed and glued EXCEPT for the back panel which is screws & weatherstrip gasket. It was lined with roof insulation but I've torn this all out because I was trying to brighten the sound a bit, so that's why it looks a bit scruffy inside. The speaker cables are soldered at both ends, I might not do that again and use push on connectors. The black finish on the bottom panel is some sort of rubber sealant - can't remember exactly what it was now. (I think a rebuild would not get lined in the same way, rather I think I'd give the whole interior a coat of automotive underseal?) The grille is perforated ali. Weight (according to highly accurate bathroom scales...) is 29.75 kg... I was lucky when I built this that the guy who ran the saw station at my local B&Q was happy to do whatever cuts were needed, including the thin pieces for the port construction, and I pretty much walked out with a full panel kit. Now they limit the number and minimum sizes of cut, so I will be stuck with a hand-held circular saw and making a saw fence.

Quick update: I think I'm going to remake a standard 606 cab, from 12mm ply. If I remake to the same internal dimensions, including port area, this means that the top of the port will be thinner material that on the original plan and in turn the baffle will need to grow in height slightly to compensate, I'm assuming this is no issue? Also, I intend to build this without all the internal cleats. Currently my plan is simple butt joints, but pinned with dowels added after the joints are made, and silicon sealed. I'm concerned this might not be road-worthy enough? With respect to bracing - would a couple of braces running top to bottom and side to side, with maybe 4 arranged around the driver radius, from baffle to the back panel, be sufficient?

Actually, and in that spirit... The one bit I'm missing is the basschat mk1 plan... is there a files section or similar I should be looking for? Everything I've found so far has been for 12" driver. Or would I need to be doing some conversion work from the 12" design (scary)? On the 606 I built, I configured the centre port permanently plugged - the 55hz tune is with this port also open?

Oh I will, I do have form...

Brighter could work - its not a sound I instinctively like but I've had a thread running in the effects forum where I've been trying to get some cut-through/presence back after acquiring a new bass that was becoming lost in the rock/alternative 4 piece band im playing with. It looks to me like you've put a lot of effort into this q for me Phil, and on a Sunday morning (in the UK anyways) to boot. So again thanks. I'll see if I can find the appropriate bc plan on the site and compare that with my existing 606. 8kg saved would be great, 12, well, better by half again!

Phil that's awesome but please don't put yourself out - unless you really want to! When I asked for a cab plan I only really meant if someone could say "Matey you want a JoeBloggs123 ..." off the topnotch their head and to be fair I was half expecting to be told to pull my finger out and do more research first... I'll have a look at the Eminence website now. Ta.

Hi, A long, long time ago (well about 11 years) I built an EV TL606 1 x 15 loaded with an Eminence kappa 450w 8 ohm driver, with help from this forum. It turned out surprisingly well given I had no idea what I was doing (and still don't) however it turned out very heavy. I built it in MDF. I'm considering a fresh box, maybe made from 9mm ply to lose a bit of heft, but would like to ask a couple of questions before I go any further... 1) is there a more suitable, freely available cabinet plan for this driver? I researched the driver and the cabinet specs when I built it but part of the driver choice was informed not just by technical (which I'd be lying if I said i really understood) specs but by a bang-for-buck requirement, and the ability to handle "half" of the Hartke LH500 that I was bought to drive it (about 350w at 8 ohm iirc). 2) if I elect to simply rebuild a lighter 606, will it be ok with a straight box with the same internal dimensions or would it need some extra internal bracing? I'm not sure im going to press ahead with this anyway, and I'm definitely not in the market for a bought boutique or branded cab. I'm not looking for anyone's latest and greatest either, just whether there are anys alternative known, solid, free (or at least cheap) plans that might be better suited to my other kit. Motivation is that I may have a gig, and the mantra of the fledgling band I'm in, is rehearse with what you'll be using, and ideally I want a little less heft to deal with, but getting spendy is frankly off the cards. I've seen a few recent threads featuring a BassChat project 12 inch cab, don't suppose there's a 15 inch equivalent? Thanks in advance... Steve