Tonteee

No, I quite agree - but good point well made. I was just using it as a rough example to the OP that the fuse related issue he perceived was not the case.

Yes, I had watched them. Whilst Ritchie Blake plays very well (complete understatement), IMO he's no presenter - at least not in those videos. Perhaps he should have had more of a script, but he seemed to struggle for superlatives. He also needed to concentrate his comments down a bit, to me. But as a technical display of the bass, he's absolutely great.

We don't get TNG on domestic BBC, though... Swap you for... umm..... Countryfile?

Aye, that he has. All good this end, just not gigging enough! Hope all is well with you too.

Welcome to Basschat! Lots of friendly folk around on here, with thousands of years of collective experience. I'm glad to read you're already embracing the GAS...

Welcome, Gillett! I saw the stand at LBGS and was intrigued. It's a very individual look. Both models sound great. Are there going to be new demos recorded...?

Have you been able to ID the issue?

Welcome, Mr Vengeance!

Yup - I've found it quite a few times on older IEC 3-pin cables. Usually there's resistance increase in the cable beforehand. Thinking about it, it could also be the socket on the amp - might be some carp in there too stopping the pins getting fully home, with the one cable that works being somehow different...

I also only realised after the event, thanks to your (now ex, I guess) guitarist never quite getting round to telling people anything...! Sad to see DefunkT go as well - some good nights out have been had thanks to you lot - but pleased to hear you've got a new gig. Look forward to hearing more about it on these pages!

IMO, I think it more likely you have some dead 'kettle' leads, or even dud fuses. The cables do expire from movement and use. Try testing the continuity of the seemingly dud leads. Have they ever been PAT tested? With relation to the current load of your amp, in simple Ohm's Law terms I(Current, in Amperes) = P(Watts) / V(Voltage) so 350W / 230V = 1.52A. That's why the supply fuse on the amp is set at 3A. As has already been said, the fuse in the plug is there to protect the flex - not the appliance. If it weren't there, heat build up from excess current for size of cable -> melty insulation -> fire / boom. But hey, this has been covered. Hope this £0.02 had helped a bit, or a least not made it worse.

Had a quick look around myself, and I don't think the socket is for an extension cab, otherise it'd be labelled as an output. I can't find your precise model, but based upon other similar Stagg amps it's likely to be either a headphone output or an cd/mp3 input, meaning you can plug a cable into the amp to play practice tracks through it. In either case, the socket is likely to be stereo jack. Any chance you could give us a photo, to be sure...? Separately - whilst not wanting to confuse matters - an extension speaker could very feasibly be connected by a speaker cable terminated in standard sized mono jacks. This is a common connection method for older or lower powered amplifiers to speakers. Things didn't go Speakon (specifically for instrument amps) until relatively recently. However, nothing I could see on any Stagg bass amp suggested that an extension speaker was possible. I expect the amp is running at it's lowest impedance anyway - so adding a cab would reduce impedance further. Hope some (or any) of this is helpful to you.

+1 to that...

Sounds like the difference between a J and a P, to me. I think you also enjoy playing the J more. I thought the P sounded well, by the way.

Well this was a fantastic shout, Trev - not previous aware of this. Really well made and funky as. Enjoyed their take on't Quo, too!

A quick search on the world's favourite search engine suggests that this is most likely a late -70's P Bass copy made/imported by Hohner. I found a very similar one listed as being dated to1978 (with a question mark) in an on-line bass guitar museum. With regards parts, I'd dare say most P bass clone parts will fit. It doesn't look like there's a recess carved for the bridge. Could well be able to buy a loaded plate and transfer across from one that plate to yours. I say that because the scratch-plate would likely not have the same holes as the donor.

Curious, I wandered over to Gibson's website for a peruse, and ended up on their user forum. Seems even hardened Gibsonites can't decide if the 2017 EB is fugly or not... http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/136226-does-anyone-like-the-2017-eb-bass/

No worries, glad to have been of some help!

If you have the bogey driver, taking it to a man will only confirm you have bogey driver, surely? Though having said that, it's possible that a repair could be effected by a competent speaker tech. They describe a fragiliy in the wire going from voice coil to chassis, this it in red, if you didn' t see the picture in the thread, to save others fishing through: So to my mind, putting your finger on the cone takes the vibration out of the cone and steadies the wire. I'd email GK and have a pop at getting a replacement / cut price driver. Failing that, it might be new driver time. Maybe an excuse for a change of brand...? All the best!

Hmm. Speakers don't just blow. Usually something drastic has to happen. However, whilst looking for a better picture of the driver, I found this on t'other low end forum... https://www.talkbass.com/threads/trouble-with-my-gk-neo-112-ii-cab.1085139/page-7 Much food for thought here, and some checking of manufacturing stickers.

Just throwing this out there - If you like the tone of your Trace head - and for your style of music, I get why you like the Trace - but it don't got the berries turned up, why not route the Trace pre into a slave power amp? I say this as it's what I've done with my SWR Studio 220. Loved the SWR's sound - and now I have acres of power on tap, too. Okay, so you need to have eaten your Weetabix to do a load in, but at what cost, tone?