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Everything posted by JohnDaBass
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Great job looks awesome. @steve-norris and @Pea Turgh what drivers did you choose?
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So Stu's back home with a lovely new dual action Truss Rod, a 50 year old rosewood fret board, satin finish neck and huge chunk love bestowed on it by probably one of the best Luthiers in the UK Jon Shuker himself. The whole horror story is on the Repair thread I'm just so grateful to Jon Shuker for the fantastic standard of craftsmanship he delivered in bringing by US Stu Hamm back to life. Top man!!
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I have owned a Fender USA Stu Hamm Urge bass from new(1993). Early last year I had the neck repaired by a local, so called, guitar repairer who sadly botched my lovely bass. The problems started when I ‘rounded’ the Allen key truss rod adjusting nut. The neck had too much relief and during the tightening of the truss rod the Allen nut rounded. A friend of mine recommended a local Guy who ‘claimed ‘he could replace the Allen headed adjusting nut on the truss rod without too much trouble. Believing, both my (ex) friend and the local (so called) guitar repairer I dropped the bass off and waited for its return. After about a week I got a call to say that the job proved a little more difficult and would I mind having part of the fret board removed to gain access to the offending truss rod end nut. I was told there maybe some small joint marks on the face of the fret board but ‘It would look fine’. Two weeks later my Stu Hamm Urge bass was returned:- · Neck nice and straight · Nice low action · Truss rod working fine · BUT A PIECE OF ROSEWOOD between the nut and the first fret!! I was absolutely livid. I completely ‘Lost it’ when it was explained to me that the Pau Ferro section of the fret board had “Accidentally disintegrated “when it had been removed. The guitar Butcher was very apologetic and offered to forego his fee for the mishap. So I ended up with the bodged truss rod nut that has over time broken through the fret board just south of the 1st Fret. The 1st Fret itself has lifted a crack runs almost to the 2nd Fret. So I contacted Jon Shuker in the hope that he would find some time to slot my neck repair in during time between new guitar builds. We agreed that the way forward is to Replace the fret board with a stronger, stiffer, thicker timber (5- 7mm perhaps?). Adds some strength to the neck construction. I understood that the finished neck profile maybe deeper (front to back) than it was present. Replace the Truss rod with a stronger, modern design, dual action. Replace the side fret dot markers. Accept the loss of some headstock paint colour where the replacement fret board would sit. So Jon planned to replace the rod with a 2 way, rout out the original channel glue a new strip of maple in, rout a new channel , etc, but it would make the neck far more adjustable. A slightly thicker board is was a good idea, and Jon had some very nice 50yr old rosewood that would do the trick. So last Monday I spent a very pleasant drive (5hrs) from wet West Wales to sunny Peak District to visit Jon and have him reassemble and setup my bass. What a fine craftsman Jon is , he has brought my beloved Stu Hamm back to life and I am indebted to him for providing such a quality service.
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Sorry to bother you Phil, but what are the port dimensions of the 6ins cab, 50mm dia x 55mm long Or 68mm dia x 77mmlong? Thanks, Brs John
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Here is another 200w offering with speakon output. https://www.pjbworld.com/cms/index.php/bp-200/
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I am wondering if the HB GPA-100 maybe the right choice for my project? I use a Zoom B 1-4 for HPF & compressor so I my thinking is if the GPA-100 can provide the basic power stage then I could simply add an Amp sim to the Zoom patch. www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_gpa_100.htm Anyone with any experience of the HB GPA-100?
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Yup!! That makes a lot of sense. One of my Mk1 SM212 cabs has a removable baffle so cutting a new baffle would be straightforward to include the Manrose port and additional horn.
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IMHO I think its doable on the BAM, maybe more tricky on the Gnome.
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Well from a manufacturing point of view I would prefer to build the single board implementation of the common chipset architecture. The BAM single pcb appears to have a lower labour content. If there is a common chipset hardware architecture then the material cost is going to be close, the labour content is going to be the product cost differentiater. The Gnome has several sub assembly pcbs connected to the main pcb with ribbon cables and cable looms. The preamp is a separate sub assembly and even the input jack and headphone jack are on separate pcb boards. Generally speaking reliability can be vulnerable when multiple pcbs as plugged or soldered together. A single pcb solution offers a more robust level of reliability. A single pcb solution contributes to lower manufacturing cost as the whole of the hardware can be tested on single in circuit test rigs providing much faster feedback for the validation of the manufacturing process. Having said all that the BAM should be cheaper to produce so why are they £9 more expensive than the Gnome. ???????
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Does the Warwick Gnome have a MOSfet preamp just like the TC BAM 200? As the amps appear to be sourced from the same OEM/ODM surpplier I'm struggling to understand why there is a price difference. Gnome £109 BAM 200 £118
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DImarzio - Split P, Model P or Will power middle?
JohnDaBass replied to shoulderpet's topic in Accessories and Misc
+1 for Split P. -
HB Enhanced P for £250 and a Weekend in Paris 🤣🤣 https://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_enhanced_mp_4mn_natural.htm
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Squier Classic Vibe 50's Precision Bass - NBD/Review. Astounding.
JohnDaBass replied to funkle's topic in Bass Guitars
I have used the Fralin '51 split P and IMHO it is very close to the original single coil P sound. They are permanently wired in parallel to maintain the authenticity. Mine was 5% over wound to provide some extra gain but Lindy offers 5% to 10% over & under wound to suit your specific needs. All the Fralin '51 split P pups have the raised 'A string' pole piece just as Leo's original. For more flexibility and tonal options, I agree with @kodiakblair that the Jess Lourerio '51 Split P is a good candidate. I have used one with a series/parallel switch offering really good tonal palette. -
P/J Bitsa with Seymour Duncan active Pups & Pre Now £110
JohnDaBass replied to JohnDaBass's topic in Basses For Sale
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I would say yes to the opening question. Mainly because I find my Zoom B1-4 is so very convenient. I achieve my main core bass tone from my amps with the help of a HPF , compressor and tuner. In one of the covers bands I need quick access to a few bass sounds for specific songs, this is achieved with a Tech21 VT Bass Deluxe which delivers 6 preset bass tones. The Zoom B 1-4 covers all those needs in a small user friendly package ideal for rehearsal and some gigs.
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Will the B6 allow use of 3rd party IRs?
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ACOUSTIC CONTROL CORPORATION MODEL 126 COMBO-QUESTIONS
JohnDaBass replied to rocker19's topic in Amps and Cabs
RIP Steve Rabe Really sad news . https://www.notreble.com/buzz/2021/10/05/in-memoriam-steve-rabe/- 20 replies
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- acoustic
- acoustic control corporation
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Another Zoom Fanboi here, this new model appears to compete head on with the Line6 POD Go. I hope that it is capable of loading 3rd party IRs. I'll wait to hear some feedback before allowing GAS to rise. Thanks for sharing.
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Found a couple of 6ins speakers down the basement which were salvaged from a Grundig bandpass sub woofer. Got some ply off cuts from my Lockdown 10ins combo build so planning a similar build. Have you included a port in the cab you have built? Was it 9 lts internal volume? What was the port length?
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Sadly you have ignited an idea to build something similar. I seem to recall that tucked away in the basement there are a couple of 4ins speakers salvaged from a Grundig HiFi sub woofer that I chucked away a few years back. Note to self:- remember how dusty it is down the basement 🙄
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Great effort Mr Teebs , thanks for posting. I'm sure you will hear a difference when you fit the top and seal the cab allowing the ports to do their job.
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Dear Mr Teebs, Just ignore all the Faff and nonsense from those "Onlooker" who are probably envious of your gallant desire to create something that you will enjoy building and using. The whole biuld process is a satisfying, enjoyable process savored by the few who dare to try. I look forward to reading your diary account in the "Build diaries" section. Good luck with your efforts. Kind regards John (very amateur cab builder)
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Superb, absolutely stunning.
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Yes, Fender , Spector, Musicman, plus some really high gain passive Pups all work fine for me. I do not use any Fuzz or distortion pedals, just either a Zoom B1Four ( HPF + Comp) or Thumpinator >> Spectracomp>> Tech21VT DI>> amp.
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I've got the HB Airborne Pro and used it twice on gigs. First one was an open air festival and the second was a very busy seaside Pub beer garden with lots of phones being used, no issues at all, no drop out, no gliches, it performed very well for the £95 I paid for mine. Great bit of kit and very good value for money. No battery worries as the transmitter docks & charges during the breaks. There's another thread on here comparing the budget offerings.