JohnDaBass

Eastwood plan oi reissue a version of the Guild/ DeArmond Jet Star bass. https://www.notreble.com/buzz/2024/02/09/eastwood-guitars-announces-the-jet-star-bass/ Really pleased I got one of the DeArmond Jet Star basses and upgraded the PUPS. Not sure about the "Bat wing" headstock. I feel that the Guild 2+2 headstock looked cooler.

I am in the process of upgrading a rather nice 2015 Squier Jaguar SS. I have successfully used the DiMarzio Split P Pup on a few Bitsa builds, it's a fantastic Pup, it's powerful, articulate, with a huge range of tones. In my search to match a single coil bridge Pup to the Split P I concluded that the DiMarzio Ultra J was the best fit. The DiMarzio website has a very nice set of data sets and graphics which show the tone and power characteristics for each of their Pups. The Split P has a reference output of 250 which is the same as the Ultra J. That 250 output is far higher than the new Relentless P and J Pups so I am hopeful of quite a nice balance between the Split P and Ultra J so avoiding the normal drop off of gain when switching from P to J . The Ultra J is humbucking so should be free from hum associated with single coil Pups. As always, do your research, seek testimonials from guys who have actually used the various target Pups and listen, listen, listen to as many examples before parting with your hard earned cash. Good luck with your quest.

Which sounded the best?

Great job, love it when classic gear is brought back up to date with a new lease of life. Step #2 maybe a new Neo 15ins driver to reduce the weight.

Lovely looking bass. Leave it as it is, just tinker with Pups and controls. A very lucky find, congratulations , enjoy.

I haven't subscribed to a printed magazine since Beat Instrumental closed, used to pay the local newsagent up front to get me my copy. P.S. Probably the young BassChatters have never heard of Beat Instrumental, which along with Bell's catalogue were the gear Bibles back in the Day.

Yes

The binding on mine is continuous, you cannot see the fret ends.

Mine has binding, but I am not sure if other years of manufacture do. https://www.flyguitars.com/gibson/bass/1971gibsonEB3.php

I have a 1969 slot head,walnut EB-3 (bought from new); 2017 SG; 2 x Les Paul Jr DC cherry with round wound and worn walnut with Chrome flats. The EB-3 has a sidewinder Pup while the SG has a stand humbucker design( correctly explained by @Cosmo Valdemar) and the Les Pauls have TB humbucker design Pups. The EB-3 & SG has their neck Pups right up close to the fingerboard while the Les Pauls have the Pup 10 ins from the 12th fret( so-called the short scale sweet spot) The EB-3 has VVTT with 4 postion switch which engages an inductor to produce a very deep tone for the solo'd neck Pup. The SG has VVT and does not achieve the same low end as the early EB-3. The SG is a very flexible bass with a wide range of tones on offer. The Les Paul has VT with a coil tap switch on the volume control. When the coil tap is engaged it achieves the same range of tones as the SG but does offer a very deep option not availbe on the SG. The closest I have got to the tone of the 1969 EB-3 is by installing an Artec Mudbucker sidewinder design PUP in the neck position of a new Epiphone Newport reissue. The Newport is VBT and the balance control really offers a huge range of tones (after modifying the phase of the TB bridge PUP). I tend to use the neck PUP solo'd mostly but adding an amount of bridge PUP adds a broad pallette of tones. I only use the neck PUP solo'd on some specific songs ( Bruce, Free,Slade). Hope this helps?

+1 +1 Hofner shorty ( LaBella DeepTalking flats), stays in its gig bag and backup TC BAM 200 6ins combo stays in the boot of the car. Just-in-case , Peace of mind.

Great Cab, well built, well designed and handles low end very well. As said they are quite heavy, but worth it.

The ports that were on the cab suggested on WinISD that it was tuned to about 80Hz ( blue). I replaced the ports with 2 x 75mm Dia X 110 long to achieve somewhere between 48 & 50 Hz (Red) The roll off at 60Hz sugests that the PAS Or Eden speakers did not go that low and seemed to focus on a strong mids profile.

The crossover is apparently 4,000Hz which is way too high and using @Bill Fitzmaurice, @stevie guidance it should be more like 2,500Hz. The photo shows the components used and I have used a Sharpie to draw on the topside of the PCB the copper track circuit from the underside. X-over SWR-1.pdf There are two 3.3 microfarad caps in series and a 0.17mH inductor across the positive and negative speaker lines. Can anyone suggest a simple way to modify the crossover circuit from 4,000Hz to 2,500Hz? Or will it be necessary to build a new PCB following @Bill Fitzmaurice circuit?

The ports seemed to be very short and the speaker wiring had been changed to series, 16 ohms, from the original parallel 4 ohms. The horn was not working because one side of the fuse holder had broken and the fuse was loose in the bottom of the cab. The horn worked fine after soldering a link wire between the fuse holders. The horn was a Japanese Fostex 75w, 025H27 which had a range of 4,000 to 15,000 Hz and a recommended crossover at 4,000Hz. So I purchased an Eminence BGH 25-8 as recommended by @Bill Fitzmaurice and plan to run the two BN10-X300s full range as suggested by @stevie on this thread. The cabinet itself was very well made and constructed from 15mm 7 layer plywood with excellent bracing side to side and front to back. But it weighed the same as Saturn some 30 kgs with the original ceramic magnet speakers. There was a great deal of attention to detail in the construction, staples used to secure the back of the “T” nuts to the baffle, sound dampening fabric tacked on all the internal walls and properly omitted around the ports. Great spring loaded handles with their inner metal faces also dampened with stick-on acoustic foam.

Ever since I built my Easy build lockdown BC110 combo I have been minded to build a second BC110 to stack under the combo. Last year I picked up a couple of Celestion BN-10-300X speakers in a sale and planned to build two identical BC110 1x10 cabs with sizes changed slightly to suit stacking one under the BC110 combo or two sitting under the Fender Rumble 800 combo. Fortunately up popped on here a SWR Goliath Jr 2x10 cab at price that was way lower than the cost of the materials and labour for building the two BC110 cabs. The SWR cab was in surprisingly good condition for a cab that was built in the early 80’s. I started the refurb topic to seek advice on the carpet covering before receiving the cab, When it landed all it needed was a thorough clean up with carpet cleaner replaced the corner protectors with metal chrome ones, and good vacuum inside to remove years of dust & fluff. It appears that this may have been one of the very early SWR Goliath Jr 2x10 cabs which were apparently built by Eden for SWR. The cab had rear ports with either Eden speakers or PAS 10’s.( the later SWR cabs had a front facing shelf port and used Eminence speakers and the Go-Light versions had Neo Eminence 10’s)

Check out the Warman MM Pickup. I have used them successfully in a couple of projects they really are good. Coupled to a Retrovibe Stinger will get you very close to that traditional MM Stingray sound.

I have a SWR Goliath Jr 2 2 x 10 incoming and if the carpet covering is secured tightly I am considering giving the carpet fabric a coat or two of Tuff-Cab. I am hoping that the acrylic will soak into the carpet fabric and create a really tough finish. ( all most like Tolex) Anyone on here used Tuff-Cab on carpet or is it wiser to remove the carpet fabric?

Great Job it looks fantastic. Did you consider removing the carpet covering? I have a SWR Goliath Jr 2 2 x 10 incoming and if the carpet covering is secured tightly I am considering giving the carpet fabric a coat or two of Tuff-Cab. I am hoping that the acrylic will soak into the carpet fabric and create a really tough finish. ( all most like Tolex) Anyone on here used Tuff-Cab on carpet or is it wiser to remove the carpet fabric?

Well, I have been really surprised by the number of "wood-Be" ( see what I did there 😂) DIY, novice Basschat cab builders wishing to have-a-go at building their own bass cab. After due consideration, (closed eyes and used a pin) two successful builders have now safely recieved their Beyma SM212s. I look forward to seeing a story of their builds in the Build Diary section. Apologies to those who missed out on this ocassion. Happy building and take care not loose any fingers playing with those power tools 😮

Mesa Subway D800 Fender Rumble 800HD Both simple to use with either a rotary (Mesa) or push button tone shapes to dial in your vintage tone of choice.

Like all the above far too many amps!! Acoustic 126 100w 1 x 15 combo Fender Rumble 500 V2 head Mesa Subway D800 head Fender Rumble 800HD head Fender Rumble 800 combo Fender Rumble 1 x 12 V2 cab Peavey MiniMax 500 built into a BC 1 X 10 combo ( Celestion BN10 300X) [story in Build Diaries] TC BAM 200 built into a BC 1 x 6 combo ( Faital 6RS140 200w 6ins) [story in Build Diaries] BC Mk3 (Faital Pro12 PR320 + Celestion CDX1-1425 1ins compresion driver with new style @stevie X-over) cab BC Mk1ish (shelf port Faital Pro12 PR320) cab [Barefaced Super Compact Lookalike] Probably enough to cover most venues 🤣

If anyone wishes to have a go at building one of @stevie and @Phil Starr excellent cabs designs on an entry level budget I have a couple of used ( but in great condition) Bayma SM212 drives FOC. These were used in the Mk1 & Mk2 cabs and are very fine drivers, pay the shipping and they are yours. PM me. I have enjoyed great fun following and building cabs that @stevie and @Phil Starr have freely shared to Basschaters.