fleabag

yeah i could squeeze a bit more in i reckon

There's a gang of very knowledgable cab folk here - the best way is to kick off a thread and ask questions like i did. You'll be steered on the right direction. Don't just guess - ask away !

[IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/2gt0zl4.jpg[/IMG]

[quote name='Kirky' timestamp='1399639018' post='2446148'] I used Copydex after it was recommended to me by the ladies in the fabric shop. Worked a treat but its not cheap. [/quote] Its not cheap by the tube, but i cottoned on to Copydex many moons ago for textile gluing, and bought a tub of the stuff. Still got half of it - its great stuff and like Bill Fitz says, you have some time / leeway with this gear as well, to correct a mistake, whereas with contact stuff, you're pretty stuffed if you get it wrong

Dang, that wsn't easy. Fair play to all those DIY ers. I found this a pain in the buttocks, and i guess its mainly down to living in a flat, no shed or garage, working in my kitchen on the floor, with the wrong tools. Still, the ports are in. 98 I.D. x 140mm PVC pipe, as per mr Starr's suggestion, and the 100mm coupler with centre stop ridge made the perfect extender to lengthen the original Peavey port out from 95mm to 140mm Although using black silicone ( its all i had ) was not the wisest choice, at least most of it is inside the cab, but i'm thinking white silicone next time, for the 2nd cab Braces next, then the T-nuts & bolts should be here to mount the Beyma via all 8 holes instead of 4 , as per the the Betas [IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/217dkk.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i59.tinypic.com/2yw93q9.jpg[/IMG]

Thanks stevie - found 'em ! On hold till some extra T-nuts and extra bolts get delivered. I'll start on the porting i think. Screwfix possibly tomorrow, cos i'm a cheap skate

Arrived from Blue Aran this morning [IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/2z7mxee.jpg[/IMG]

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1399562776' post='2445381'] I was thinking of this kind of thing: [url="https://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=EVNL092C_2PK."]https://www.bluearan...d=EVNL092C_2PK.[/url] They are just a lot easier to fit because you don't need a perfectly round hole. The flange covers your bodges with the jigsaw. Unfortunately, those ones are a bit short, although they would do at a pinch. If you keep looking you will find some adjustable ones that would be better, but they might be a bit pricey. Phil's idea of drain pipe will give you greater flexibility at a reasonable cost, but does require a neat hole to look good. [/quote] Checked your link stevie but just get a Blue Arans homepage and a large blank area - but i assume its somewhere amongst this lot ... [url="http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?search=port+tube&x=9&y=11&stk=Any+Stock+Availability&perp=10"]http://www.bluearan....ability&perp=10[/url] I agree an adjustable one would be brilliant, but i've just blown my wallet on those Beymas, so PVC pipe is on the cards. I'm looking for function over form anyways, so i'll just tart it up as best a i can Checked the Beymas on the original mounting holes from the Peavey drivers, and they line up a treat. Strangely, the original Peavey drivers were only mounted using 4 points. Weird. The Beymas ( like the Beta 10's that were fitted but were still only mounted with 4 bolts ) are 8 hole mounting so i'm drilling another 4 holes in each speaker mount area

Cheers Phil - that makes sense. Dont mind about the colour - stevie suggests a flanged port, so how would i go about this with that Screwfix pipe ?

Wow - tricky. Seems i cannot find those exact dimensions in a port tube

I've just cottoned on - ports need to be 140 EACH Hence extending the first one by 45mm

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1399539000' post='2445073'] The two drivers you have will comfortably handle around 300 watts of bass in your box. Although one port was sufficient with your previous drivers, you really need to add a second port if you are going to take advantage of your new drivers' higher power. Two ports of 95mm internal diameter need to be 140mm long - which means extending your existing one or taking it out and fitting two plastic ones with flanges. Braces are something that you can always add later. To check whether braces would help, feel how much the panels of your cab are vibrating when you play your bottom E. Just out of interest, this is the kind of frequency response you can expect (bear in mind that the room will compensate to some extent for the fall in the bottom octave): [/quote] Many thanks stevie !! Thats a quick reply So, instead of faffing about adding an extra port, i can extend the original one to 140 mm ?

Stevie - i have just found out that if i fit the braces, i wont be able to get to the only area where a 2nd port can be fitted , assuming you think i still need one. I can get to the outside backboard obviously, but i'd want to seal the port on the inside too The Beymas have been promised for delivery today ( Thurs ) and i have already cut the braces for cab 1, but as stated, will not fit them till i've sorted the 2nd port - can you run your software and see what pans out, taking into consideration the first port is staying put ? I had a look in case i needed to remove it but its well glued in, and i'd wreck the board getting it out cheers !

Yes, i believe the Peavey TX 210 was fitted with a tweeter at the factory, but was removed by a previous owner, and no problem for me. I hate tweeters

Cheers stevie Yes it does seem weird that baffle brace only goes 3/4 of the way across--- it stops because of the port tube presumably. Although 15mm thick, the board is about 8" in width. Odd ! Its actually attached / glued / nailed ? to 3 sides, ( baffle board back board and one side board, which i didnt mention above but i will brace elswhere as you say, in those 2 places numbered

The previous owner , aende ( a member here - good lad too ) may have done some of the wadding though its possibly original Peavey. Maybe that baffle brace too

Just a looksee inside, and there seems to be a lot of wadding already. Also, there's some bracing almost 3/4 of the way across the cab, attached to the baffle board and the back board, running horizontal, though it doesnt quite reach the other side ( No.3 ) but is quite thick - at least 15mm. If any bracing needed, i think i could put 2 pieces beneath each driver , full wdith ( No. 1 and 2 ) This pic showing more inside and how much wadding already there - only the back board seems to have any bareness

Sounds like snake oil Besides, i have castors on the bottom cab

Beymas ordered - could be 4 weeks , due to sporadic info, spanish postal system, and whether there might be some stock already in the UK. We'll see Might as well get on with the bracing and extra damping

Thanks David - one of only 2 is pretty exclusive Oh - just remembered, one of the previous owners fitted a pair of Nordstrands

MY RS Sig , Retrovibe, and pimped ' Vintage ' MM with Inductor circuit 1989 defretted, passive vol vol tone mod Retrovibe Aero 1, Nordstrands fitted by one of the previous owners, year 2010 ( thanks David ) Vintage MM, Warman pup, tinted and lacquered, Inductor passive circuit, block inlays, year unknown

Cheers stevie - sounds promising I like Phil's Beyma recommendation . Ok, so a quick check with the diameters and such and see if they'll fit, and if they do, i'll get some and flog the Betas, and faff about with the stuffing and bracing. Will definately take you up on the gracious offer of working out ports size - TVM ! Will get back to this thread when there's something to update you on. Thanks to all contributors for your kind help

Cheers Phil - partly home brew, as they were ex Peavey TX 210, 18 mm ply but with the Beta 10a's fitted, tweeters removed Advice noted. So you think the cab size ( volume ) is not such a problem, (also add stuffing and bracing ) just maybe the port dimension may need attention , when fitting, say, the Beymas ?

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1397837812' post='2427840'] Don't forget that our perception of hearing over the whole frequency spectrum is greatly affected by the volume level. The famous (or notorious..?) 'Loudness' button on hifi amps would boost the lows and highs, so that, at low listening levels, the lack of physiological response of our ears would be compensated. To be removed if one listened at a louder volume; did everyone do that..? I think not. In short, when playing louder, you'll need to reduce the frequency extremes. To set up a 'sound', you'll need to be in 'band' conditions, not alone at home or in the practice room. Hope this helps. [/quote] ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ Head Nail On Hit

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1398721250' post='2437034'] They still are the entry level recommended driver, but the plans are specific in that regard, and note better options. Plus the horn loaded Jack gets quite a bit more out of them than a direct radiating cab will. [/quote] Yup, I peruse the BFM forums too, sporadically, and am aware of your advice re such matters, whether here or there. Perhaps with some luck ( or maybe ' miracle ' would be the right word ) I could find someone selling off 2 Jack 210 cabs without drivers