fleabag

I'm using ply rather than plastic, but i'll take the advice and get bearing cutter

I might look for a top bearing in that case.

Indeed Paul, cutting your scratch plate that way seems perfect, but thats not the same thing Cutting a cavity with a router bit that has a bearing on the bottom doesnt seem feesible to me

I decided to go the straight double flute bit, no bearing at all The template only has to last 2 pickup cavities. It's aslo a bottom cleaning ( ooer ) bit so the floor of the cavity is as nice as the sides I cant see a bearing on the bottom of the cutter is any good at all . How would that work ?

I've now got the other work to do that i wished Andy could be doing, but if i take my time and ask Andy questions, even if he's on the bog, i should be ok

Probably the best way, i would think

I have never seen ' active ' Barts either. Or MECs

I've had the Xvives ( first gen ) before my current wireless setup, and they were fine till they stopped charging up via USB. They lasted a year or so so a waste of over 100 quid Then i went upmarket and bought a Line 6 Relay. 50 quid more than the Xvives but so much better all round. Quality, and no non - consumable batteries to contend with https://www.andertons.co.uk/line-6-wireless-guitar-offer

Dammit - more expense. I have to buy a black sharpie

You bar steward. You facked up with the dots - i said none !! 🤓

Not sure about using a 12mm as a routing bit for pickup cavities. Isnt the radius a bit big for the tight corners ? I was thinking 6.3mm bit I am now thinking it might be easier to find a non bearing straight bit. Shank same size as cutting blades, and use the shank to run along the template ?

Ah, yes. I didnt think about that. So the sides of the rout ( pickup cavity ) become the template as you get further down , because the bearing will run round the edge as if it was running round the template ? Are the bearings the exact same size as the cutting part of the bit ?

I agree on the plunge doubling the prices of palm routers, as i've been window shopping. So if using a top bearing bit, what do you do when you want to rout deeper ? Surely the bearing drops below the template ? Also, do all cavity routing bits with top bearings, make the bottom of the cavity nice and flat/clean ?

Cheers Jabbs

I was thinking of scoring meself a palm router, despite preferring to get routing done professionally. Its just the wait for someone else to get it sorted that i want to avoid. I know my local bloke will take 2 weeks to book it in and another 2 weeks for the job, and its just for routing soapbar pickups. Lemon squeezy The last time i had a router , it was too big, so moved it on. So i thought a smaller palm jobbie would be ideal, 1/4" or bigger ? So .. they look like they dont plunge, but is a plunge router even necessary ? The router bit .. does a straight router bit only cut as wide as it's shank ? Or does it have be a top bearing pattern bit ? Since the palm router doesnt plunge, and i use a template for pickup cavities, the top bearing pattern bit has to have the bearing run on the template, so cannot be moved down as the cavity gets deeper - cavity needs to be 20mm deep, minimum. Having said that, if i had a 20mm thick template, that would allow the bearing some leeway on routing downwards. I suppose then, with no plunging action, i would have to keep extending the bit out of the router ?

The main vox in my ex funk band used a tablet. She loved it, great idea

I favour the bolt through. It's a real oddball though.

I should have phrased that differently, methinks

He sounded like a right donkey wipe, jezza. Acting and speaking like a diva , especially when said donkey wipe's playing was all over the road like a street pizza, is just plain dumb. Then acting like a spoilt schoolboy with his post sacking shenannigans, well... foxtrot oscar , good night vienna. Job done, wipe hands, smoke a fat one, audition next gitwrist

I'm not scared. I know people who know people 👀

I must admit, i'm quite partial to a tight 15"

There's no such thing. It depends entirely on how they're manufactured. Tight 15's and flabby 10's are also available. The science from acoustic engineers on here have, for many years, dispelled all the sad myths about drivers.

I dont get it. If you dont want to trade, put NO TRADES in the sale. One either wants to trade, or doesnt. Bit like those cheesy tiresome " feelers. " Either it's for sale or it isn't. Decide before posting. Or is all that too simple ?

Saves hacking down Ebony trees. As it happens, i'm getting a Richlite fingerboard neck built in the Build forum by Andy https://www.richlite.com/collections/fretboards

If you're building a cab that's for studio or home, why not use veneered ply ? It can be stained to your liking, easily laqcuered if required and nice to look at, depending on the veneer.