Cuzzie

Pumpkin turd brown

I suppose yours is burnt Umber, or blue sparkly brown

And dog eggs

Reckon that may sound cool, but would you want a slightly hotter output on the bridge split coil, to help pop through a little bit? I built a P recently with a Creamery 58 pick up which I love and was considering routing and adding a wizard Thumper which is super hot, but have decided against it for now, give me a nudge if you want to try that P in it if you do rout the VS4

Bottle opener is my fave

Torture chamber

I think the point is that dried/de-moistured/seasoned wood is more settled than fresh green cut stuff - as nicely illustrated earlier by a manufacturer wood is stored to allow it to dry and then used, this is accelerating the process, probably because of increased demand also, so it’s not quite hype as those basses years ago should have been dried, and over the years lost that last 10% of moisture mentioned that the heating/toasting-roasting addresses which co-incidentally looks nice as well

So you are king fu fighting, those licks are fast as lightning

Isnt that the same as choked chicken

It’s a way to cure the wood, as stated before it’s a living entity with moisture, drying or roasting helps to eliminate this, and can look nice too. It’ll cost more, you have to run a kiln/roaster to do it in. Same as any finish, if it takes more man hours/materials to do a specific finish, no harm in it costing more

Sounds like you are a proper bassist going above the 12th fret, that’s bandit country for me. And I think I read you right in that the saddles are high and hence have enough travel to drop the action. Possibly your shim is an angled shim which has not just raised the height of the neck, but also the heel in proportion to the rest of the neck. I would take the neck off and see if the shim comes out easy, and you can assess whether it is angled or not. if it does try it without and see what the action goes to, you could even see if you can reverse it so the neck height is still raised, but tapers off. It May be if it’s an angled shim and a shim is needed it just requires a flat one or less severe angle. You can experiment with playing cards to get what you need and then replace with a proper one. If the shim is glued in then you can sand down the heel portion to allow it to drop, or build up as above to how you like. If you want ready made Shim’s StewMac website is great and gives all kinds of angles to use. Hope it helps and makes sense, others may come with ideas if I am talking bunkum

Is it glued in or not? is the shim angled or straight? Either getting an angled shim or sanding it down a little my be enough to drop the heel, and then you can drop the saddles. take the neck off, it will probably just slide out if not glued. I must say though, a little rattle above the 12fret is about where it should be for being super low, and personally I don’t mind that as never much past there! Have you done a proper set up from the start altering not just the rod but the saddles and nut grooves if required?

size

Split coil may be slightly different............but as @bigsmokebass said, The MFD range (pick ups alone) overwound, too much Treble to compensate for Uncle Leo’s overall hearing and high end hearing loss, they also shot themselves in the foot with their neck options, they had so many good ones, really amazing profiles, and in the end the default #12 falls between lost gaps and achieves nowt Still good basses tho

@bigsmokebass tell him not to get me started on that one......🤦🏾‍♂️ It would surely just be an L2000 but maybe a different pre-amp or not then?

Plenty easy to dial in, if it’s anything like the DP3X small increments make big changes in sound

@Osiris will confirm I have spring rolls for fingers and spades for hands But it’s not that big - it will fit in your jeans pockets, unless you where those crap skinny ones before you say it, no I am not about to dump it in the bin and yes I Colour code my socks for the day of the week!

Fender dabbled early 80s with the Elite II basses that we’re very good, and decent electronics, but often were pretty heavy. Similar time as their Elite starts came out that wee also special but an absolute bugger to play. Ultimately the vast majority of people have conservative tastes and hence they didn’t take off. G&L P pick ups tend to be pretty good (or they were) and a lot better than their MFD buckers. Getting 2 split coils to match won’t take a lot of R&D

Hartke VXL Bass Attack version 1. Wont get all out nasty fuzz, but will give an overdriven sound and punchy sound. Bombproof, run of 9v or battery, DI to boot second hand £50-80, change in your pocket for penny sweets and pork scratchings followed by pop and crisps

Sandberg superlight Status stealth Find odd bits of bodies of requisite weight, source lightweight hardware, pop it together!

Seen those fingers, they are not like my spring rolls, or your giant geetarist - but they are not princess and the pea!

TI flats have worked well for me DR Hi beams otherwise