Cuzzie

Lord Flasheart I presume

A den of iniquity it is

New bridge arrived and I cannot wait to fit it and see if it brings the strings in enough, it’s a beautiful hunk of metal. rout cavities graphite painted, looks better already and hopefully will be well shielded.

Oh an on the pick ups, I am genuinely very fond of the Creamery ‘58 pick up, it’s quality. I was in discussions with Jaime about the 65 and it’s difference aside from being a lower output, and he will do a custom if you/I want. I figure i’ll Get the bridge on after spraying, Mark out the bridge P, if I like the look, rout it and then I may get a custom set from him that compliment each other.

Small update Primer undercoat done, great learning experience for when the Gold topcoat goes on. Few drips on the horns from the first time I tried to spray which have been partially sanded back, but I reckon these may become relic areas! Using Northwest guitars nitro spray cans, they seem to be pretty good actually, enjoying using them, and yes they stink - keep well ventilated peeps!

Possibly or Insta

They were mint weren’t they! they had the piccies recently on one of the social media platforms

I saw one for sale on eBayland about a year or so ago, but didn’t move on it, it may well have been in Europe- would be interested to see whereabouts it’s and or others are located

Well it is polyurethane.........How much coloration does it give? it’s all about the grain, of you have a nice grain, you can easily keep it clear-ish

It’s a good position to be in to be wanted and to want to play music with people, but the other persons lawn is not necessarily better, it’s just using a different lawnmower

Depends on what stain you want and how to achieve it. You are likely to need to sand the original finish all the way off, then sand smooth, then stain and then use multiple coats of Tru oil/gun oil over the top to get a Matt or a glossy finish. With a block colour, you can still sand back lightly, but not to bare wood, the paint just needs somewhere to stick to. Use a Nitro spray can, probably better to use a primer first partly to prep, but partly to get used to the technique of spraying, then your colour with as many coats as you need and buff. If you use a metallic finish you will probably need a clear lacquer on top. Both take their time in various ways. If you haven’t got a Graphite paint shielded cavity/pick up rout, may as well do that at the same time, that will make it awesome

Welcome to the world of the dark arts......once you are in there, you will love it

A sighting has been confirmed.......

Use a capo at the first fret, then fret the E string where the neck meets the body,using a feeler gauge 0.015” should just lift the string/slide under it at the 7th fret. This is your correct neck relief, then you can lower the saddles to the string height. If this is not enough you may need to file the nut to get the action even lower. Ultimately if still high your neck pocket may be too deep and you might have to shim the neck to raise it, which consequently gives you more play with your saddles

True, as in all strings they do dull, but it’s s trial and error

Defo not a 5er - stay in the 4 club

DR DDT and Hi Beams are very good and do drop tuning just fine, I use them on all mine

If your passing drop me a line and come and play, vice versus for me past you - she has twigged I get stuff delivered to work and to mate’s and also popped a ban on that......probably a good thing! Still got one project left to do after this

And the custom bass thing is very important - being different is good!

I have just been put on a 3 month buying ban from the Mrs, fortunately I ordered some stuff a couple days ago.... Jabba, Andy, Christine etc. They are a complete other level, but so humble to learn stuff from. Brand snobbery........I don’t mind playing anything at all, even a Fender, but I will day I find it hard to beat a Sandberg bass or a Status neck - they are sprinkled with fairy dust

Bedroom player or not, makes no difference IMHO. If you were doing a gig, would you borrow your mates MIA Fender, or rock your bitsa.....?! One of the biggest compliments I had was from a mate who is a proper player that tried it. He said ‘i’d Take this out and gig it’ simple pay on the back for me as he knows his beans. I am biased towards my bitsa too, but then again if you like me had put thought into how components compliment each other it should be the way. Not saying I am Billy sheehan, but Yammy didn’t make him a bass, he hammered and battered his together and they reproduced it. Tim commerford does his own pedals. I am not a Luthier yet, but a scrounger and cobbler I am happy to be!

I get you on that, but to be fair (neck aside!) the body build will come in at under £200 and my time which I am giving to me for free. I generally hate the cost/value for money thing arguments, things are worth what they are worth and everyone spends in their budget, but compared to a Rickenbacker, it is way cheaper, I am not after it sounding the same, and it’s great fun learning and popping things together, with it’s own slant. If this fails with the bridge, i’ll fill the body, and do a proper rout, or make the requisite holes and get a pickguard to cover it. Its probably obvious to most, but in my eagerness i didn’t calculate it, so it’s a word for they who may consider something similar, we learn from mistakes!

Crisis averted, i’d Popped wires onto the input lug instead of the output, and the same with the tonestyler. In my usual quirky style the stacked knobs have the bridge as the top knob and neck as the bottom vol knob, and I am not changing as the cavity is wire tight!! All fixed, just the action to get right, sounds very very beefy - be sad to see it go!

Don’t get me started about St Tud’s when I was there, great times......

They are not cheap tho!