Cuzzie

That diagram also makes my mind hurt Think I may also just do a simple job!

The Satin finish from what I have seen is pretty good, different from High gloss obviously, but high gloss essentially takes a load more coats and buffing and work to do. Cedar is a little softer and will dent easier - but we all love Patina! good luck with rehearsal - be glad to hear how it performs

What Krispn said - and yes - lots of slap - it’s punchy as hell!

I got my DK second hand butbit came with a Hardcase, pretty sure it was from new. I am fairly sure they used to, worth shouting them, but then again another maker hardcase may be more to your liking

Agreed they are not Mono80/Fusion standard but the standard bag is decent enough, their deluxe is a good bag, stiffer and bigger pockets, and they do a hard case. You can of course upcharge and get one!

Ha! No worries, someone may pop up

All this talk of Ibby’s Here’s a corker for you all https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264295474428

I think these look nice! Can’t wait for the review

It will be fine I am sure - it’s just to make sure you are wary of what can happen if you hand drill, you may have a steady hand! If you are near Bristol - I have a pillar drill and clamps you can come and do it!

Also does your body blank have the position for the bridge and grounding wire already drilled? If not here is a useful thing I found to help find out where you need to place it. Bridge placement 34” for reference this is for a 34" scale 4-string bass: * if you want to protect the finish from scratches/nicks, not is the time to cover it with something like blue painting tape or similar * insert the neck into the neck pocket and clamp it into place. be careful not to squash your frets with the clamp and clamping fressure * using a long straight edge, draw a line from the neck to the body butt for each side of the neck. accurately measure from the last fret position about 3" on each line. do this again for a reference measurement that is near the butt end of the body * accurately connect each pair of measurements to their counterpart on the other line * accurately measure the center point of each connecting line, and then draw a line thru these two points - extend the line from the end of the neck to the butt end of the body. if you were accurate in all of your steps so far, you now have an accurate reference of where the centerline of the neck passes thru the body. this is critical for your strings to be aligned on the neck properly * measure from the nut back 34" to obtain your theoretical 34" scale reference. accurately draw a line perpendicular to the centerline thru this point. extend the line several inches on each side of centerline * determine the forward most travel of your bridge's saddles, move it back 1/16", and measure the distance from the string witness point on the saddle to the front edge of the bridge. draw a line parallel to the scale reference line (towards the neck side of the line) this same distance. you now have the front edge aligned for the bridge. * measure the width of the bridge and draw a pair of lines parallel to the centerline that each are half the bridge with away. now you have your bridge aligned side-side I know this seems like a lot of work, but it's really not that difficult. it's critical to measure and draw accurately, as any slop will easily be seen every time you look at the bass. it's also important to note that the strings will always intonate longer than the 34" scale, not less, and thicker strings will intonate farther than thinner strings. because of this, only the G string will be relatively close to 34" ... the others may be as much as 34-3/8" from nut to witness point

One thing I will say is that if you are getting blanks and you need holes in the neck drilling, don’t mess about - you have 1 shot for a good hole - get some clamps and a pillar drill, or get a mate/tradesman to do this exactly with a pillar drill. I had to do various holes for neck and tuners and countersink a Status graphite neck for another bass I did - you cannot slip up with them and it was invaluable

Pee wee compared to you mate

That P bass had gentle blow torch just to pop the grain a little. BTW I am no means an expert, just enthusiastic and experimenting! But I will say for an aged look and dirt cheap - tea is very very good!

straight Tru oil to a Matt finish - about 4 coats no buffing

did this with swamp ash

This is a good one for using gun/Tru oil from Matt through to a polish https://youtu.be/PKMzNfd-mXQ Although you may not want this colour the principle is good for a stain and pop the wood grain I am testing a couple stains before a build - dark brown and amber, watering them and mixing them Then i used some if that rub n buff combining a couple to see what I can get with a little shimmer-apologies for lame commentary 48D4AFAA-1A03-40EF-93BD-5E6BF51A6134.MOV

This is looking good and will Sound amazing - probably your best choice there is that tonestyler - it really is phenomenal. A lot of those components are like stuff I have merged across builds. Remember weight is always a thing and grain is important in a bass so I would go for the best looking grain you can with a natural finish. So far as which body, there are plenty of ways to darken a swamp ash body cheaply and easily some of which I have tried and would be happy to share. Tru oil / gun oil is great stuff . with sandpaper it’s always good to start from 100 and then gravitate through last 220 to even 400 or beyond if you can bear it, it will give you a more even finish on the bass. Also are you doing a Matt or shiny finish, both achievable with Tru oil, but to help it go further you can dilute the oil with mineral/white spirits and wet sand it in as you go! loads to think of!

@foxyFuze who is your roadie........? I may know a lad local to you!!! Sounds great fun

And that my son is a thing of beauty congrats

That’s cool I hate lots of stuff irrationally

The break angle is consistent - the point at which the string is tucked under the device varies by an order of a few millimetres. I’ve experimented on where between the first and second tuner it lies and if it makes a difference - and it doesn’t. Works really well on a 5er too and better practically as well as aesthetically than 2 trees. Only asked why you thought is was bad as you said don’t get you started on it, thought you may have had a bad experience etc.

Irregular break angle how and why is it bad? do you mean that the break level is slightly different per string? i’ve found It works way better than the usual tree

Apart from the Umbo where the pick up is slanty or the Panther

Of course if you get the casing for a humbucker you can put whatever pick up you like underneath like the 48 where the neck pick up is a split coil

Agree on no routing unless you are 100% sure