Cuzzie

Titebond and loads of clamps

Thanks for those bits link as well - need them for an upcoming

Its a great idea i used an old guitar E string to keep the bridge to ground wire hole patent while gluing a body together to repair it You can keep cheesewiring it back and forth as it sets so it doesn’t get stuck, Kitchen Metal skewers also work

Ha! No worries i clamp the body/neck and use a drill press, when I did a graphite neck I couldn’t be off even in the slightest, also controlled the depth nicely. If you want to do ferrules instead of a plate using that and a Firsch Forstner bit is a nice touch, Personally I prefer them

You defo need an extra long drill bit for the grounding wire to the bridge. I nearly hammered the whole body using a normal length one.....🤦🏾‍♂️ May be teaching you to suck eggs, but if you haven’t got a Pillar drill either get one (they are not too expensive) or see a mate who has one. Neck holes on the body and the holes into a neck itself are the crucial ones to be dead arrow straight. Looking forward to progress!

Looking good! For when I progress to building instead of renovating and putting parts together, I have just bought a set of chisels, doing it old school!

They had that old headstock, fender slapped them, they popped a pointy bit, I think fender’s slap has worn off now so they can do what they want

Too many switches for me - I am a simpletone ....

Beauties buddy especially the SB memories of mine.....semi hollow ASAT had the best neck ever, and I missed the L1500 to stop it sounding like fingernails on a blackboard - serious thump - not a fan of the neck though, and those MFD’s.....

Well if it’s not a G&L but made in Fullerton it will be good And if it doesn’t have MFD’s it will be good Winning formula

Neither of you get me started on them again.....🤬

😊 I gather that is the emoji for awwwww

Well, you know I won’t say that - I fully agree with what you said, except that to add Blackpool rock will sound sweeter.....

I have always loved your wood....... Looking good chap for another adventure!

May be OK, if not using those MFD pick ups......

Sure pick ups and EQ etc. Can even out any differences as said, but I am in the camp that not just the body wood, but fretboard wood make a difference in the sound that comes out - it has to. Electronics for the most are not that variable as they are not living structures. If you straight lifted electronics from one bass to another, to another etc. There will be a variance in sound - you hear of people talking about dead, dull, lifeless basses....... That being said I am not an exotic or any wood snob - I still agree with pick up and use the one that works for you whatever the make up and combination of woods, or non wood materials.

Ah but you have the look!! i dont even have that

It’s been a afternoons play for me got about 10 seconds in, still nowhere near him

Hahaha It’s not just the appearance - I may lack a little in the vocal range...... One of those slightly lubricated - i’ll give it a go moments

This rules and is difficult - I tried to sing it once or twice, let alone play it, crikey I felt sorry for the audience..

@Al KrowRe active vs passive and cutting through more in some numbers hence requiring actives - is within the same set/gig with the same band and same type/number of instruments throughout the gig? Why would you want to cut through less at any point?

It’s cos those SL’s are cracking cracking basses

GHS make Sandberg strings, similar to Super steels. What I found exceptional with Sandberg’s are DR Hi Beams

What you are describing us exactly what the VM offers, the precision sound, with extra cut and clarity. Hölger is a genius