Cuzzie

Nice thread. Can I quantify before adding or not. If it’s a production bass, but differently spec’d, not aftermarket but from the factory using components they have, but not necessarily the norm, does that count?

Bingo, Yep that’s true, but again it’s like most electrical items, power it as you are supposed to, gives it the greatest chance of it working effectively. I would wager this is a given across the board

Yep for me, as ever go with your ears and taste

Mine is pretty quiet As it has a metal back plate, sometimes the circuit board can make a connection to it, by judicious foam placement solves that

Yep can happen as with any high gain electrical object , but it’s worth a try again maybe, it’s not like going back to the ex, they are normally an ex for a reason, this was a minor blip

@GisserD Stuart has the TM prototype that flashed up in the top right hand corner. That TT bass is the one I played (smiley face)

@itu is right. I fully recommend the KMA Tyler - great piece of kit keeping a strong clean signal and blending effects through a HPF and a LPF on top of and parallel to your signal. Also the DP3X pedal is amazing

@GisserD essentially I played that bass. Its an absolute effing dream

Bingo

@GisserD I have to ask what SZ is - slow Friday brain....

I recognise that bass in the clip....!

@mangotango pretty sure there is a VM5 on here there may be an aged one on here too

@Skybone is willy wanging different to welly wanging

You’ll get no disagreement from me on how good a unit this thing is. I would say really experiment with it and find tones you like and try weird settings, but that I don’t mean extreme distortion, the real joy in this is finding the clean tone and or a tone just breaking up. That’s the real magic sauce

No worries, all experience is good experience and these things can be fixed with mods, for example the L1500 was made very Treble like by design, swap a resistor, add a second cap to the tone pot, it becomes very nice. I think we all have love for G&Ls but for me anyway the Sandberg love is greater

We can solve this (shameless plug for my thread) let’s get it debated in parliament The future generations of bass players will thank us pioneers

@ebozzz how did you find that, it was buried in page 9, of the manual and about page 3 of the manuals page, which I think were alphabetical? That is top notch delving

Solution

For too long now manufacturers are treating us bassists like we have turds for brains. I am sick of them not reporting their magical unicorn watts in a consistent format. As a community we need clarity, we need to make manufacturers give us consistency for our fickle nature of gear changing every week without blowing our cabs or our ears. 3 parts to this. Do we want Peak or RMS or both? Lets name and shame those companies that don’t provide it. I propose we start a petition, 10,000 signatures we get a response, 100,000 (signatures not watts) we can get it discussed in parliament. Who is with me?!

There are so many corrections and strikethroughs it’s hard to keep track, not sure when the dad joke of ‘Peak your interest’ came in. But @Al Krow when this was created to look to see if it was plausible to use as a back up head, did you actually think it was 2000W RMS? If so that makes it over twice as powerful as one of your heads, and over 3 times as powerful as another. As a back up amp it doesn’t make sense if it’s more powerful than your cabs can handle? How do Mesa rate the M6’s watts on the web site and manual?

This is as hilarious as it is tedious. Apparently the information is not easy to find. The minute the information is presented on a plate it’s too hard to find, i’ll Let you into a secret. I used a reasonable well known search engine called Google and then I typed the following words “Bugera Veyron specs” and by some curious twist of fate and luck, the pdf (3 letter acronyms can be tricky, if you don’t know what that is it’s a format of a document) is the first hit. Now I know some people find using a manual hard, but it’s not greatly different to reading a web site. As far as researching a buy, I know for sure most of us will search many areas, sites, retailers, second hand markets to secure the best price, some of us here having done that have publically called sellers out on their pricing based on this, it seems to me that this research we are arguing about is less difficult and time consuming. coming back to other manufacturers, DG, Genzler, etc. Maybe we should start a new thread on if they have listed Peak or RMS or not, name and shame the culprits, and then still use their stuff.

@countjodius So here is my take, please ignore if you want! G&L - fanstastically well made basses, brilliant craftsmanship and quality. Problem is the pick up. Leo was suffering hearing loss and in particular high end hearing loss, so he rotated the magnet, changed the pole pieces, over wound them to compensate. That to me is why they have so much output and Treble. Personally, I could not tame them using any form of pre-amp type pedal I like to use, the signal was too much, and too hot. I imagine straight to amp especially a valve amp, it would be OK. That’s having owned an ASAT, a semi hollow ASAT and an L1500. TM2 brings balance to the force, you will not be sad, and if you care for upgrades, get black labels in it, well worth it IMO. Good Luck!

Then is that a retailer mishap or a manufacturer mishap? I read an advert in Viz magazine years ago for a new fragrance pheromone X that was bound to make you smell more attractive to women - bought that without research, made me smell of pigs wee and was more of a deterrent, never again. Trickfish probably didn’t get as much rap because despite the name, it had its power ratings on the web site slightly easier to find. Suppose we should rat on DG, they say their amp goes higher than 900w but don’t give a figure, that’s a bit naughty, better not risk it. Genzler give a wattage for their amp without saying peak or RMS - steer clear even though it’s bloody brilliant. Split is irrelevant, at some point in history the majority of the world thought it was flat. Time will tell whether enough people think it sounds good and provides enough ‘heft’ for most scenarios or not. If we think we value BCers opinions on such matters, surely the person/people with the amp who have made comparisons with more widely held amps tells enough of a story as to what it can do as opposed to a spreadsheet, or a bit of HTML text which may have been entered incorrectly.

@Al Krow in your nutshell and @Bridgehouse if I have you correct are you saying most retailer listings in general, or specific to this amp? If its in general and causes consternation about not quantifying the figures, then surely for any product actually the best place to go is the manual bearing in mind you obviously think/know the ads across the board may not have all the information

Edit donkey to a s s