Cuzzie
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Everything posted by Cuzzie
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help me choose the bass design- they both look so good...
Cuzzie replied to Ari247's topic in Bass Guitars
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That Hohner is a cracking bass, I have one with the drop D and it does in the car whenever we have family hols. Cant answer about profitability, but I know Gibson do strange things buying something only to run it down and mess it up. So far as status go, it will be a cracking bass, and the streamline and their stealth I think are their only all Carbon fibre basses. Popping a truss rod is sensible, I have never had to alter mine, but it gives the ability to as carbon fibre is not totally immovable, and you can tweak your action to suit your playing.
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Yeah the battery should fit up top My preamp is I think Vol/bal/Bass-Treb
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I agree with that entirely, the only time you may ‘compromise’ or have to think properly about footprint is if you are public transporting to gigs. Genuinely the DG amp being a little smaller will fit into a gig bag pocket. If you can fit amp, cables,bass in a gig bag and cab in the other hand - you are laughing. If you are driving, and have other stuff like the PA, desk etc you have to load up, the size difference is so minimal it becomes a non issue, all of those amps fit into a DJ mix bag like the ones from fusion with cables, mics etc and become a 1 carry - done that with a 2U rack size amp.
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I presume the diagram is showing you a plus/minus mid knob on it. I don’t see why it wouldn’t work - you have 3 holes it should be fine - you just need to check your cavity depth with the stacked knob - so long as it is deep enough carry on. For reference this is the standard Glock 2 band EQ they use I have lurking around.
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Would be nice - maybe if I spent more time playing and less time being a tart for their basses I could get one!
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If it’s the standard Sandberg issue I think they are mad by GHS, and are Steels The panther is a special bass
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Technically a VM4 in passive mode, should get you nearly there. Personally I believe the M rout and loss of wood alters the sound - I know others don’t share the same view, but I think it holds water, any kind of PJ never sounds the same as a P with the J turned off. I owned a VS4 passive, Sandberg pick up, wonderfully constructed bass, but couldn’t put my finger on why it wasn’t quite right, it ticked every box apart from the feeling. Maybe now I would experiment with different pick ups, but I sold it to a mate of mine who has a very very discerning ear and is a great player and Sandberg fan - he felt the same. Could just be that one, but it was the weakest of Sandy’s I have played - we are btw talking about something being 8-8.5 of 10 as opposed to 9 and above which is most Sandy’s! Panther is an absolute sleeping giant of a bass, the body is so slick and the pick ups very refined, everyone has to play one at least once. Regarding pick ups, I have played probably most configs of pick ups and types - Sandberg big pole/small pole/black label, Delano’s, Haüssel’s big and small pole - and this is on their own or with a pre-amp. What @TRBboy says holds water - a a gross generalisation....... Delano - more hifi, but its not sterile and boring, versatile, good for modern music, great if you like using effects to sculpt a sound Sandy Big Pole - Nice pick ups, well blanched, leaning towards the more vintage vibe, not my fave personally Sandy small pole - vintage, beautiful sounding, just the right output to be class on their own, or be able to take a pedal - My Fave out of the lot by far. MarloweDK and TSBS are gems of jazzes. TSBS used to have Seymour Duncan pick ups, now it’s in house Sandy’s. Sandy black label - more aggressive, more punch, but you can get delicacy out of them, needs a bit of coaxing - great in a bass like the Superlight, where it needs a bit more oomph as the body normally floats away with Helium. Haüssel’s small pole - very mid range, very hot, J pick ups almost sound like a P - great on their own, difficult to get right with any preamps and pedals, I would need completely different settings between that and another bass like the DK. Haüssel big pole - more of the above really - very very full sounding and cracking, but hot! Delano 2band pre amp is very good actually, forget the nonesense about 3band EQ’s being essential, it’s rubbish, this covers you for about 99% of everything you will need and its design from active passive not changing your tone is great. For extra cost they will put in a Delano 3 band. Noll preamp - they can Source this for you as he is in Germany, or you can aftermarket it. Another good one but more aggressive than the Delano in its sound. Don’t forget strings, they are really responsive basses to string types, don’t be afraid to change from your usual, cheaper than a new bass and may unleash what you want. Quick overview from my point of view, lots of good stuff, loads to cater to everyone’s needs.
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It’ll have big balls
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You could be right, but I am almost certain the Black Labels are wound out Far East. I’ll agree for sure on their ceramic pick ups - ones in my DK are smashing
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With the Branding they look like in House sandberg ones. If it’s completely stock email sandberg with the serial number of the bass and they will definitively tell you
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The TT4 has the pick ups in the classic 60s position, if that is your Sound, you will do swimmingly with it, that depends on what pick up options you like. standard Sandberg issue are Delano’s with a Delano preamp, but you can ask for Sandberg black labels, Sandberg own or Haüssel pick ups - there may be a charge - only you know if you prefer active or passive. TM is also a great bass and will give a slightly different push to the sound blending in the MM - if you want a Stingray sound from it, you won’t get it, wrong position, wrong preamp. If you like Toto - Shem Von Schoeck their bassist uses a TM - great great sound. They are so well made you will get them to do what you want - sounds like you are veering towards the TM...? FYI for anyone else out there, I have heard a rumour that they will fit the Umbo tone circuit To defo the VS4 and VM4 if you want, possibly others.....
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I think the way I approached it (apart from what does my fave bassist use) is first power section. True RMS is watt is required. Class A, A-B, Hybrid, Class D. Which power module ICE vs Hypex. EQ - Tone stack, Baxendall, Para/Semi-para, mid frequency selector for specific frequencies or a sweep. Drive channel or no drive channel associated. Reliability and ease of technical assistance Or repair. Then there are other bits like where is the DI placed in the chain, Is it affected by volume and minor stuff like headphones, aux in. Available cash and Value as well Once them is sorted that will narrow down a massive field for you and will help make it easier knowing what to go for
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Excellent choice
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How spectacularly can you fall off this years gear abstinence thread?
Cuzzie replied to Mudpup's topic in General Discussion
Circular saw routers and bits shinto Saw japanese pull saws spoke shaves 25w soldering iron wood Few other bits and bobs, maybe the odd cable and strings -
Best soldering iron/solder for use in wiring a bass
Cuzzie replied to krispn's topic in Repairs and Technical
Indeed - reasonable priced as well - i picked up on this from another BC thread - I have to say I probably like it better that the temperature gauge ones which I often end up flicking accidentally to a different temp -
Best soldering iron/solder for use in wiring a bass
Cuzzie replied to krispn's topic in Repairs and Technical
http://www.esr.co.uk/shop/contents/en-uk/p32302_Antex_CS_18W_230V_Soldering_iron_PVC_cable___plug.html this is good - loads of other stuff you need reasonably priced on the web site -
Good man - it’s a load of fun
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Welcome with open arms
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Post pictures-denounce your former life and be reborn
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Because you love the sound of it
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Template doesn’t need to be clamped into place - pop some masking tape on the body and on the underside of the template, then use super glue, gorilla glue dots on the tape on the body - line it up, press it into place - it’s secure enough. Each side of tape is removed after, no residue or damage. After chiselling, even the most carefullest of people will have an uneven contour, which will likely require sanding after to make good and properly flat, not to mention that to successfully remove the wall chiselled bit, you will have to eat into the floor just a tad to avoid splintering, and then the floor is slightly uneven. Hopefully the finish on the body won’t chip or crack in the process. If you don’t mind slight flaws in that system, then yep - nowt wrong with either, but the router will be cleaner and more precise with the caveat the template is correct.
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Now that that is the nuts