Cuzzie

2 small overlapping fields, 1 wider field String lined up directly, or slightly off (stingray old smoothie) AlNiCo (whichever version) vs Ceramic magnets Scatter wire vs none scatter All decent things to do that produce slightly different flavours that will suit some more than others i reckon - personal taste, non of which is wrong

I have bought a few things on there no worries, listed on there too, but I think they sold on other sites before a reverb buyer could get hold. I do know people that have and they had no issues - if it broadens the audience, it’s cool. I find it good to search and being music centric loads easier. Good luck

If other people are allowed to touch it, I can see some interest at the SW bash happening?!

Possibly if you did Musicman instead of Music Man - it may not have picked it up

I have to add that I also used some rub’n’buff on a couple of my jobs so that seals some pores and there is a very faint underlying sparkle to the whole thing

For the first 2-3 coats I thinned with mineral spirits and applied with a bit of the sandpaper I used for my final sanding, in my case I think it was 1500. Then I went to oil on its own, just fingers, light sand drips, re-apply, buff etc

I go even higher on sanding sometimes into the thousands, but that’s for a very even finish, slightly tougher finishes have their appeal as well

@Misdee I get both of your points, the fidelitron is the Fender take on the filtertron so a little different. The thing about that bass is the neck is so darn good, and I think it looks cool, but that pick up just wasn’t quite there for me as well, close, no cigar. I think now with more experience I could coax more out of it, and strings may also make a huge difference. I play more with a pick now so that could make a huge difference as well. Its all a delicate soup

I should probably get a decent router at some point, stop me taking ages with a dremel and hand tools....🤦🏾‍♂️

I love a rout as well! After Routing, use Carbon paint to shield, hides any ills! @krispn converted a P bass into a P bird type bass dropping a Lull pick up in. If you search there are some sound samples from it - very nicely done it was as well, sounds mega

Nope, an Ampeg valve amp is perfect, I love a bit of grit. I had success with a clean boost pedal with it - Cleanest on the market is a Creation Audio MK 4.23. Alternatively, and probably the best multitasking is to get a compressor, as well as the other compressor knobs, get one where you can boost the output signal, this will give you a great clean sound, and you can dial back the amp for grit you desire. Huge numbers of compressors to choose from, but I used it with a CaliCB and MXR M87 as 2 examples which work very well in ‘brightening’ the sound. If you went for example for the Darkglass compressor Hyperluminal-if you don’t want your sound softened avoid their Super Symmetry settings and go for BUS or FET - BUS was my fave. There are of course pre-amp pedal options, and just because something does ‘dirt’ doesn’t mean you have to use it as dirt if it has an EQ you like, it can be used as a clean pre-amp. If you take a Darkglass B7K as an example - I think the dirt/overdrive sound is poo, but the clean preamp is actually ok. Overall Fave - Tech21 DP3X-clean, dirty, compressor, tuner all in one pedal - magic with a magic tone Hope that helps

For something different you could get the neck pick up from a Seymour Duncan Rickenbacker replacement set which just on eye ball may fit. The likelihood is though that if your bridge is not adjustable you would need to change that so you can narrow the string spacing. Out of leftfield and probably minor surgery would be something like a Thunderbird pick up - the Lollar or Mike Lull T-Bird ones are great, and they have a metal surround to hide any rout

Great basses - mid regret selling mine a few years ago, purely due to my lack of knowledge and ability to get the best out of the pick up. You can go..... Filtertron Thundertron Thunderblade Thundermag They should all fit in with no additional rout

If you can find freestone used to be known as hilimire necks I think they have a reverb or eBay shop, they are very very good and not just for the price, I have used a couple in builds - you have to file the fret ends yourself and maybe roll the neck, but they tell you this.

Key is sanding to a high grit level, first 2-3 coats you can dilute with mineral spirits and sand it in, then apply neat let dry and buff patience is the key

Gun Oil on amazon is very similar and I have also had good results as well, darkens it slightly, does a great job

Apologies - I didn’t mean clone, I meant their version - been watching too much Star wars

Use the measuring from the frets, if the neck heel joint is not in the same place in relation to what your bass is compared to the Ray, it will be off, even by millimetres which will make a difference. Getting an official Ray pre-amp is quite hard, they don’t send them out willy nilly, I think Aggie and possibly Seymour Duncan do clones

I was gonna use Axminster but they sold out of either that or the spokeshave I wanted, and couldn’t be bothered to pay 2 lots of postage so went with amazon, but thanks for the tip, I think I will enjoy using it. @3below it was a great video thanks, I will keep it in mind for the next thing I do, it may mean I have to buy another saw to achieve it though!

Maybe people have bulk bought to rasp stuff in lockdown?! I got one off amazon alongside a spoke shave, only bugger is waiting till Friday to get it and to start completing the job

And the video was cool as is the saw rasp, I may have to accidentally get one....

It’s all appreciated and thanks, I am always learning as I go along, which chisel I prefer, big taps vs little taps etc. I was aware of the possibility of a massive split happening, but took a risk for the photo and also knowing that I was going to be carving a fair bit out or the slab, so could hopefully mitigate a mistake. I certainly went more carefully later, and I can see the benefits of band saws and planes that is for sure!

Oh no fair enough, I don’t disagree - I would be hard pushed to spend 2K on anything, but there are plenty in that price bracket. I suppose as someone else said materials plus time spent and add a little for profit, it’s gets in that territory

If its in Shuker territory, does that not mean its correctly priced - i have no idea whose craftsmanship is best, but if they are both exert builders then should they not be a similar price?

All suggestions gratefully received