lemmywinks

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1399032318' post='2440200'] It may not even have been a bass. The seller refers to it as 'a usable historic timepiece'... which is probably a wind-up. [/quote] It certainly seems like the mechanism for some sort of joke....

Plus we don't know what it was like before the refin. It may have had an extra pickup rout, an active conversion or a previous refin. Maybe from the 80s when people weren't so concerned with alleged pieces of musical history!

Also important to remember that those spotty youths who just come in to try out gear don't stay young and penniless forever. It's no coincidence that the local shops that offered the best service when I had little money got a lot of my custom when I had lots of disposable income.

I think they advise only using 3 of their "8ohm" cabs as other manufacturers' 8ohm cabs might cause problems. Again it's numbers trickery to acheive a USP. I wish they'd stop doing stuff like this, just being honest about specs and letting the product speak for itself should be enough. All the BS just makes people not trust them, myself included.

I think some of their amps run down to about 2.6ohms too, not sure which so don't qoute me on that. I've pretty much given up on TC and their numbers games! Other manufacturers do it though, my EA cab was meant to be 8ohm (1x10 with tweeter) but when I replaced the driver I found that it was labelled as 4ohms, might explain why some people had problems when running two with 4ohm minimum heads.

[quote name='xgsjx' timestamp='1398761309' post='2437234'] I'm gonna take a guess that to allow 3 cabs to be run, the amp can either run to a lower Ω than the 4Ω they state, or the cabs are a higher Ω than the 8Ω or 4Ω, or (most likely) both. [/quote] BGM tested the RC cabs and found the 2x10 to be about 10ohms and the 2x12 to be around 11ohms. No magic involved, just TC playing around with numbers in order to sell stuff again.

Why not? It's just another P bass, nothing particularly special about it.

Probably the same process as the other finishes they offered, I had a gold leaf one. I'd imagine it's like the Photo Flame finishes you see on some Fenders and Yamahas.

I didn't have any problems with my Cort version either, in fact it's a really comfortable bass which is lightweight and compact.

Just spotted this TSB on Gumtree, £600 but a lush colour: http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/1980-aria-pro-ii-tsb-550-32-medium-scale-through-neck-bass-guitar/1059039522#photo-content

Oh dear! When I see these I actually feel compelled to buy them and sand them back, kinda like when you're buying a pet and you take pity on the sickly runt so you can take it home to nurse it back to health. Then I look at the prices and think "f**k that".

There's something else I have my eye on too which isn't helping! Gonna have a pedal sale soon to raise some money.

I got a reply from the seller, the dealership was A&C Hamilton in Preston and apparently they said it wasn't a Fender too. It's up as a replica now, she actually seems honest enough and not really in the know.

Yeah it's getting to be more than I'd want to pay too with 5 days to go. I bought and sold my Cort Curbow for £180 and I think this will top that.

That's the answer to the question about where it was made, MIA, MIM or MIJ. In the other question about whether it was a factory fretless or not they say this: [i]"Fender do make them though, and the dealership authenticated the neck, saying it gives a more jazzy sound,almost like a double bass "[/i] So apparently a Fender dealer has authenticated the neck.

This looks wrong to me: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-Jazz-Fretless-Guitar-/171313712649?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item27e317ce09 The headstock seems to be entirely the wrong shape, dunno if it's just the angle or from a certain era but it looks odd, far too skinny with the logo obscured. Also the truss adjustment is at the headstock end, seem to remember the odd MIM being like this but may be wrong.

One thing I always find offputting is when the sellers describe additional routing but don't show pictures of it, immediately makes me think "hack job".

I always liked Elites Stadium 105-45, Elixirs were sweet to but not as big sounding as the Elites. YMMV though.

Absolute nightmare, hope you get sorted bud. What (if anything) did they say was wrong with the delivery address?

I don't like the whole empowerment thing, it's always sounded like an excuse to sell something on the back of a pair of boobs. Besides my bass already has one massive tit on the back of it to start with.

As already mentioned there are basses which weigh next to nothing. Maybe try a Soloette or the cheaper Aria Sinsonido? For practice I use a Sinsonido, a Markbass LMII and a 1x10 neo cab (no back problems, just lazy!), a child could carry it in one trip I reckon. Standing and playing with the Sinsonido is a breeze, almost like there is no bass there!

Actually screw it, if I don't win something else I've been lowballing that ends tomorrow then I'm in for this.

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1398355974' post='2433356'] @Evil Undead. Why would this be a pain in the posterior to play? [/quote] They aren't, she's telling fibs!

[quote name='linear' timestamp='1398370511' post='2433537'] Can I ask, out of interest, how do you know what temperature to use for a given task? Also, what would be considered a suitable fixed-wattage of iron for making up cables? That's something I have to do at some point, and I do have a fixed-wattage iron in a box somewhere. [/quote] You can quickly guage it, it's pretty obvious if it's too cold as you'll have to leave the iron on for too long, similarly if you're melting PCBs and the plastic coating on thin wires then it's too hot!. I've used a 40w iron for cables before but to be honest you can get adjustable ones for not much money. I have one like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/28020-Analog-Soldering-Station-150-480-C-60-W-with-Silicon-Wire-/280757198381?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item415e6ede2d I prefer the bulky solder station type as it's more stable and has somewhere to put the iron, making it safer than a loose iron and those flimsy metal prop stands.

To be fair you don't need anything fancy for most things, the simple adjustable ones for £15 are fine for making leads and wiring up basses. I've done some laptop and tablet repairs with mine, however £30 for something better isn't going to break the bank. If I hadn't replaced my cheapy recently (the old one went kaput after years of service) I'd have grabbed one of these.