lemmywinks

Add Nordstrand NJ4SE to the list, you can get them with a 7.25" radius as well. If you want a lot of treble then a drop in preamp such as an East J-Tone allows you to configure the bass and treble frequency spectrums via internal jog wheels, the treble shelving goes from 1khz to 7.5khz. As long as the cavity in your bass is at least 32mm deep there's no routing needed.

Well whatever that pickup is I've just spotted its twin here: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/483164507580917/

It depends where you get the parts from really, I bought used Schaller tuners and Nordstrand pickups and when I sold my Sire I put the original parts back on and sold the upgrades for what I'd paid for them. I lost a bit of money on the Gotoh bridge (£20 or so) as I bought that new but that's it, the cost of ownership was minimal really! The later Sires (from late Gen1 onwards) have much better tuners, the Gen2 have better pickups and now they come with more standard bridge saddles which reduce the break angle to the through body slots. A few of my mates have Gen2 V7 basses and (aside from the plastic knobs which I don't like) there's not really anything I'd change if I wanted to gig one tbh, in fact I recently got a set of used Sire Grover clones for a cheap Aria I bought and they're rock solid. This is what they're using now btw, much better. I think bassassain said they're a clone of Grover 142 which looks to be the case: https://northwestguitars.co.uk/products/4-x-bass-tuners-open-back-for-right-handed-fender-squier-jazz-precision-bass

Looks pretty much the same to me, it's ok. Then again I don't like the bulbous Fender headstock really. Much better implementation here:

Got Warwick Reds on my cheap Aria Jazz Dlx at the moment, if you like steels there's really no need to spend more. I used to love Elites but the last set I tried sounded way too clangy for a good while, then hit the sweet spot for about a week and just went dull after that, dunno if they've changed them.

I set myself back by walking down stairs at night using my phone as a torch so as not to wake the family up. Phone slipped out of my hand and I quickly reached out and caught it with my left hand, was equally surprised at my unusually quick reflexes and the intense pain jolting through my shoulder. All the black bruising came back and I had to go back to the hospital.

I got a PJB C8 Lite cab off here, 6kg heavier than the CMD combo but has built in wheels and a trolley handle as well as a top mounted handle so it's easy to cart around with one hand. I already have a head so was either looking for a capable compact cab or combo. I think a few people on here just bypassed the tweeter/crossover on the Markbass piezo stuff, the horns in the Club cabs I had were much nicer than the piezo tweeter in my old TRV cab.

Thanks for the info, did you try this with an active bass?

I also had that in my watch list, went with a different option before the listing had ended though. Suppose that's what can happen when you don't offer postage.

Did the same thing few years ago, even when I got the use of my arm back I stil had to play seated for a while. Lightweight, short scale and headless basses (preferably at least two of those attributes in one instrument) are a help, fortunately I had an Aria Sinsonido and one of the Ibanez parlour acoustics to tide me over. Eventually started gigging with an Ibanez EHB headless, around 3kg and no pressure on my left shoulder whatsoever. So the silver lining is you have a perfectly valid reason to buy at least one new bass.

The seller is also including a blank pickup cover, most likely the original one. Red flags all over really. https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Q-gAAOSw1HpmWalu/s-l140.webp Not a Dimarzio either, what could it be?

Euphonic Audio? Did you dream it?

Absolute steal here if you're local: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166824861709 EQ sliders mostly damaged on the head but still a crazy bargain.

A few of the cable companies on eBay are cheaper than designacable for the same thing, I've used these before: https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/ultimateproaudioltd For instance a lead I need (50cm Van Damme, Neutrik Jack M to Locking Neutrik F) is £31 delivered at designacable and £23 with that seller so not much more than buying the parts and making the cable myself. Exacltly the same components and colour options, shoot them a message if you want something specific. Cable builders make most of their money by bulk purchase on components, Designacable just whack a massive premium on top of that.

Bah, you use playing cards? I can hear the difference between the various types of junk mail that happens to be posted through my letterbox on the day I need to shim a neck. A local gardner's leaflet gives a natural, earthy tone for example.

It'll only be going from my preamp pedal at my feet so should be ok, will have a jack lead handy anyway in case it fails. It's the wireless IEMs dongle I'm most looking forward to as that's the one that annoys me.

That's more than enough for me, thinking about using it for gigs now as the draw of wireless bass and IEMs is getting stronger!

I think most of the generic ones use 5v (or at least did last time I looked into it years ago) so just a cheap power bank would be ok I think. I did consider an IEC splitter and a compact USB charger like Woodinblack linked to above. First port of call is to check if the 5.8ghz Lekato one I have on the way (arriving Monday) works, our keys player is dropping the lights off at mine this evening so all things going to plan I should hopefully know soon. That's a much more elegant solution really - two dongles and a single charge cable.

These look suitable for a simple master/slave link and are rechargeable: https://www.thomann.de/gb/chauvet_dj_d_fi_xlr_tx.htm https://www.thomann.de/gb/chauvet_dj_d_fi_xlr_rx.htm

Same thing we'd do if a wired connection failed, swap it for one of the spare XLR cables we keep behind the sub. As it's not audio related our sound guy could do this without any disruption to the set and one side of the lights would still be working. All the PA in terms of FoH is wired and will be staying that way, the only thing I'm looking at changing to wireless is my own personal IEM feed and the master/slave link on one of the light bars.

Period correct 80's relics where they rout a '63 Precision body for a J pickup?

We already have different lengths of cables, a whole big bag of 'em as we've been running our own PA in various forms for about 20 years now. I'm still not sure how the question "can I use a this wireless XLR dongle to replace a cable?" gets the answer "use a longer cable" or "use multiple cables" but there we go! For future reference I'm wondering about wireless XLR transmitters/receivers, not looking for an instructional guide on how to plug things in. As previously mentioned we are willing to spend money for the sake of convenience and this is one area that can possibly make our lives a bit easier.