lemmywinks

[quote name='nino500' post='919593' date='Aug 9 2010, 01:32 PM']Hi, On the subject of the casings on the Superfly: I have just opened mine up because it was cutting out whilst warming up (usually after 5-15 mins) but would eventually reset after a couple of attempts at switching off and back on. It had never let me down at a gig as I let it warm up while setting up the rest of the gear then reset it before we start. This situation doesn't inspire confidence, so I decided to investigate. On removing the outer casings, I found they serve no purpose but increase the weight of the amp by 2.75kg (6lb)!!! It's only 4kg (9lb) without them and 6.75kg (15lb) with!! Worse than that, they create a dead air space of about 5mm above and below the amp. As the amp has no fan, this works like double glazing and INSULATES the amp keeping the heat IN. Then there are those alloy castings on either side. Aluminium isn't the best conductor of heat and they're not finned so, again, they just cause the amp to retain more heat. Ok, you woldn't think things could get much worse, would you? WRONG, this amp is controlled by a digital CPU/motherboard (basically, a small computer). Where do you think they placed this delicate unit in this designed-to-overheat amp? Yes, you guessed it, THEY BOLTED IT RIGHT ON TO THE POWER AMP HEATSINK!!!! Words fail me!! I just can't think of any way of describing how STUPID this design is without getting chucked off this lovely forum, which I've just joined![/quote] Aye, if you look at Mark King's prototype Superfly (it was designed for him as he wanted a tiny head to take on planes) it doesn't have the casing either. A last minute decision by some berk in marketing? Also you can get little rubber feet from Wilkinsons which screw into 4 existing screw holes on the bottom. Get those sharp corners ground down and painted over and you have a tidy little amp which works I run mine this way and it's been fine, don't bother racking it as that defeats the point of having a small amp! I wonder if anyone has tried hooking up a USB fan to the square port on the back (assuming it provides power)? Hmmm, might have a go at that tonight....

I'd say that before you completely discount a Schroeder at least give one a go. The 1212 cabs are plenty loud enough to be used on their own so if you find you like them then they may be the best solution for you. There's loads of people who say they lack low end and are too mid-heavy, but then there's also tons of people who have been quite happily using them for years and love the sound they produce, myself included (i have the 1212r, no idea if it gives more bass than the neo ones). I wouldn't call them bass-shy, there's a surprising amount of low-end in there for such a small cab and i haven't found it lacking at all. On the gigs where we have had a good, clear on-stage sound it can do a very modern, clinical sound with a very focused tight low end. If you need to compete with a loud drummer and really ramp up the mids it is totally at home there too. I think they're a great match for a Markbass head too btw

Should have kept hold of that Bacchus! Have you thought about looking for a boutique bass second hand that appeals to you? Budget around £700 - £1000 and you'll get something a bit special for the same price as a "regular" bass. Worked for me, don't think i could justify spending £2k on a bass, but getting a £2k bass for £700 was much more appealing and carried much less risk and potential financial loss. Basses like this always appeal to me: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=97460"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=97460[/url] Maybe i'm just tight-fisted though!

Corvette, easy. Slaps like a beast. Gigged the Vintage and quite liked it but the Rockbass 'Vette feels and sounds like a better, much more expensive bass. Alternatively just save a bit more and buy a German one. Just sold mine and already regretting it a bit

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' post='916003' date='Aug 5 2010, 02:18 PM']Defret it yourself and see how it goes. There's nothing to lose! It might be ok forever, if it eventually starts to buzz sand it down again! That's what I would do, but then I am a tight git.[/quote] That's actually a pretty good idea. If you do a de-fret and like it then great, no money spent. If you would prefer a new ebony board afterwards then it wouldn't cost you any more than doing it in the first place i imagine? I recently de-fretted my old Ozark acoustic after getting frustrated at the original fret-job - i just couldn't get the frets to seat properly and it buzzed all over the neck even with a high action It needed a re-fret anyways (and after removing the frets i saw why, worst cut slots i've ever seen!) and i wish i'd done it sooner, it plays beautifully as a fretless and i cut the nut and bridge slots right down so it's sweet to play. Like "butter" as some unimaginitive eBay sellers say!

[quote name='blind pilot' post='913859' date='Aug 3 2010, 01:50 PM']When returning to playing after a massive 14 year+ break, I needed to buy kit. I got a HA3000, 4X10 transporter cab, 1x15 Transporter cab all for about £350.00 and i love it, and i have just bought a HA3500 (via here) so I am very excited to try this out! especially the valve pre-amp.[/quote] Those HA3000 heads are great, in many ways i preferred them to the 3500/5500. I have loads of Hartke love, always been great, dependable amps and so much rig for the money. For many years they were my chosen brand before i moved to lightweight gear. I still use my trusty A70 combo, it's had a hard life but still keeps delivering a fantastic sound at any volume

These not worth much then? I assumed it'd be a USA model as it's early 80s with aluminium neck and Schaller hardware.

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kramer-Duke-Deluxe-Bass-guitar-1983-Original-case-RARE-/120602223904?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item1c1473e520"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kramer-Duke-Deluxe-B...=item1c1473e520[/url] Spotted this and thought some folk on here might be interested, esp. considering it's got a part aluminium neck

[quote name='LawrenceH' post='903859' date='Jul 24 2010, 11:12 AM']Anyone else got recommendations for where to get these? I'm about to refinish a 70s Classic MIM and want to get hold of the appropriate sticker for matching headstock. Can't find any on ebay, I assume people are rather coy about advertising them.[/quote] Just make some. Get the clear decal paper off eBay and print some off, only costs a couple of quid. I scoured google for appropriate images and then cleaned them up, gave a few away on here as i had a load spare I have publisher document at home with some decals on, can email it to you if you like? The eBay seller is also very good, can do some very specific decals. I just don't like paying all that money for one when i can make 15 for half the price!

Also if you have any laptop memory i might be interested Ta Steve

Pm'd about the laptop hard drive, that would be ideal!

Any laptop hard drives in there?

Yeah i've been using this for around a year, really useful. There may be another better one out now but this has never let me down so i haven't checked! You can optimise it for different instruments but it doesn't make that much difference, it will still track a low E no matter what it's set up for. Another useful app is Guitar Chordz, handy for playing chords in different positions

[quote name='basshead56' post='875241' date='Jun 23 2010, 11:48 AM']11 last night. I get a group txt from the singer. "Guys we´ve decided to stay and dig in with the band can ye rehearse Thursday, that would be perfect"[/quote] Roughly translated this means - "Guys, our gig abroad has fallen through and now we have no band, we'd just like to pick up where things have left off and never mention it again if that's ok?"

I used to run the same cabs with a Hartke HA5500 head, absolutely no problems at all. In an ideal world (where you have a roadie) another 4x10 would be desirable but the 115XL is a nice cab. I was surprised at the amount of volume it pushes out on it's own, sounds really good as a half stack

I don't think the 2 filters have a flat so to speak, they're not boost or cut. Rolled all the way to the left is off and on my rig that's pretty much where it stays!

Nice build, looking very tidy! Starting my 1x10 cab build next month hopefully, if i can actually find someone around here that sells birch ply

An Auralex Gramma pad might tighten up the bottom end a bit, although in most cases a quick tweak of the eq will sort it out. Where do you have the VLE knob set? I turn it right off because i don't like the effect it has, seems to lose definition in the lows to my ears

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='872236' date='Jun 19 2010, 10:50 PM']Oooh, very nice piece of wood.[/quote] +1, this is gonna look lovely

[quote name='51m0n' post='870528' date='Jun 18 2010, 09:47 AM']A few thoughts/truths for you:- You can never ever have too much power (thats why god made volume knobs) 500w into an efficient 410 or really good 212 will be enough for almost any pub gig. ANy more and you need a decent PA. Some rooms are acoustically awful - nothing you can do about that but move your rig into a better position in the room A rig at ear height sounds better for everyone, a rig on the floor (single cab) is very hard to hear the mids from. Result: you turn up too loud for the audience in the room A rig close to the back wall (back of cab within 1') gets about +3dB boost from the boundary reflections. Use this to your advantage! Deep bass sounds great on its own, turns to mud live and gives the FOH guy areal headache. Being heard is all about the mids... Speaker diameter is not related to cab performance in any meaningful way, neither is port location. It just aint that simple people!!!!!! Any modern amp putting out 500w into 4Ohm will do the job, its then a question of tone, reliability, weight and features (not to mention labels here but...) Cabs are more important than amps, they produce more THD (excepting the case of a deliberate overdriving of the amp), have far more to do with the frequency response of the rig than the amp does, and the efficiency of the cab really does define the rigs real world volume. Go play a bunch of amps and cabs and find something you like the sound of, then ask here if people think its really up to the job, or if there is a better alternative to get the same kind of tone....[/quote] Excellent post. That "God of gear" tag is starting to make sense! A good quality amp through a sensitive cab is a no-brainer. Forget power handling and speaker size, good design produces the best sounds. It's all about finding what you like. An Auralex Gramma pad helps no end to retain consistent sound from stage to stage, as well as eliminating boomy notes. I found this more useful than anything when trying to determine a cab's merits

[quote name='crez5150' post='870795' date='Jun 18 2010, 02:04 PM']I'd love either..... but the thought of spending £900 on an Ashdown Amp sends a stabbing pain to the back of my left eye......[/quote]

You know the guy who makes 'em is on here? Sure he could do some sound clips for ya [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showuser=554"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showuser=554[/url]

[quote name='bassicinstinct' post='869769' date='Jun 17 2010, 11:22 AM']I guess we all form our opinions at least in part based on our own experience and I've been using the Superfly 500 head regularly for quite some time now with no issues or complaints.[/quote] Don't get me wrong, since taking mine out of the external casing it's been problem free, i've played through it for ages and all the gremlins seem to be gone. However when i got it i had to send it back twice with 2 seperate faults, even then it kept cutting out (overheating i think - hence the case removal). Fact is it's a bit of a lottery buying one, there are good ones but there's also an awful lot of bad ones with faulty mainboards, sounds like we've been lucky as ours are currently still alive and kicking!

Bought all manner of bits off them, excellent service and super-quick delivery every time. Keep us posted on this one, always been intrigued by their bodies and necks

If it's UK then it souldn't be much, i'd guess around a tenner? On the courier's website you don't find out the extra costs until you actually put the addresses in so it's hard to tell!