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lemmywinks

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Everything posted by lemmywinks

  1. The regular Zoot custom model and the Boudica are really cool body shapes IMO.
  2. I still use my TC BH250 as a rehearsal head, don't think it's been over 1/3 of the way up more than a couple of times. Would have killed for that sort of price/power/size combination when I was young and getting a bus to practice/gigs!
  3. Nice one thanks, will pass the information on. My mate has just bought the regular 200w Gnome and is after a small cab for home use so looks like that would be ideal for him.
  4. Think my mate is after the cab which is why I was looking so nobody else buy it! Seeing as you're the man to ask - how bad is the dent in the top of the cab? Andertons mentions it but no pic.
  5. Was cab shopping for a mate and spotted a used Ashdown CTM15 at Andertons for £199, no idea if that's cheap or not. Andertons second hand pricing is usually ok though. https://www.andertons.co.uk/second-hand/sh-ashdown-ctm-15-bass-head-w-bag-t%3Bch
  6. If I had an amp that cost me 3 x £200 in repairs I would use a different amp or a different repair shop.
  7. Ashdown CTM15 is probably your best bet, overpowered and oversized for what you're after though: https://ashdownmusic.com/products/ctm-15 Maybe try and find an old Hughes & Kettner Bass Master / BATT? http://hughesandkettnermicroamps.weebly.com/batt--bass-master.html
  8. Smallest bass valve amp would be the Ampeg PF20t wouldn't it? Not exactly mini though.
  9. This, the pickups (and preamp) are budget units and definitely of their time. Cort like paying for a license to slap a brand name on in house parts and the electronics are the weak point. You don't need to spend much either, I replaced the Selects in my Hohner with Duncan Designed J units and they sound much better, I quite liked the Select P pickup I had though.
  10. Never really had a problem with modern solder, I use the 60/40 stuff off eBay as mentioned above.
  11. Can I have some free stuff please?
  12. Was hoping they'd have their uke basses on sale but there doesn't appear to be any .
  13. Looks super that, fits in with the aesthetic of the surrounding gear as well.
  14. The GR is 31cm wide, the C2 is 31.8cm so you should obviously get both and stack them.
  15. Love these little things, wish I had the need for one! Too bad they don't do a green one to match the Elf. They have black for the Gnome and red for the Bam200.
  16. Last time I was in York we went in RWB Music which had a Stingray 5 in, one of only a handful of basses in a tiny store so they have made it that far!
  17. A bit nice: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373795240516?hash=item5707eeba44:g:XlQAAOSw-pNhlTRL
  18. That was my experience with Warwicks, never had a socket fail on me and I was doing at least 4 full shows a month with Warwicks as my main basses for years. Had a push/pull volume pot fail and the usual plastic Just-a-Nut disintegration but no jack sockets. Maybe just luck of the draw.
  19. Me neither up until the last 3 years, had a switchcraft one fail. Just wondering if I'd been unlucky Was definitely the jack as I put a different one in and it's fine (for now).
  20. I had a PX3B a while ago but couldn't get on with it, didn't like any of the effects (not really what I bought it for) and it was a bit on the quiet side for practice (which is what I bought it for), very handy little things though and hold their value. I suppose the Mooer PE100 is the modern equivalent and is around the same price as a used Pandora, no bluetooth though.
  21. Yeah the visible bit is the knurled part, the rest is internal. Everything is enclosed though so whereas on a regular front mounted jack you can bend the pins to fix them you're kinda screwed with these. Never been much of an issue on the past (gigged Warwicks, Corts and a Zoot for years with them in) but only seem to be getting a few months out of these. Just found one in my parts box and soldered it in, will order a switchcraft one in preparation for the inevitable crackles.
  22. For edge mounted outputs, look like this:
  23. Would be good if someone made one that could be manually tightened, like if it had a screw operated internal collar or something.
  24. The one on there at the moment only makes contact if quite a bit of pressure is applied on one direction, to get a signal I had to rest it on my knee and push down while playing. Literally broke while sat in the gigbag with nothing plugged into an it!
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