lemmywinks

RE cables - don't bother with brand names, just buy off a private cable builder who uses good components. Search on eBay for "klotz neutrik guitar cable" and you should get an industry standard grade cable that will last you years of gigging for less than you would pay for a flimsy branded one.

That's been flagged before, note the defret via shovel and crazy action. Definitely something up with that as rather predictably he's bottomed out the string slots in the nut (probably with the same shovel he used to rip the frets out): That's the only closeup fretboard pic he's put on there although you can see from the other pics it's damaged all the way up. He has a big workshop full of tools and that could be sorted relatively easily for next to no money, apparently he places a value on his time (hence the markup) so why does this bass look the way it does?

This. There's probably a lot of wiggle room on the gigbag price (they offer 25% off anyway) and they probably have a few lying around. They're decent bags and probably equivalent to £35-£40. A decent gigbag is a very useful thing to have, moreso than cheap leads etc. Personally I'd have got one of the burgundy ones on sale for £349, glad the 5 string isn't available as I may have made an irrational purchase out of lockdown boredom!

Bit naughty of Andertons not mentioning it's a cheaper Rockbass and not a German Warwick. OP if you wanted this type of bass you could score a genuine used Warwick for that sort of money.

Hard to look past the Sire V7 as a first bass at £350 new, it has the simplicity of a standard Jazz in passive mode but so much more when you flick that switch. Some nice colours with the new version 2 line as well. Alternatively the Sire V3 can be bought new for £261 which is stupidly cheap.

Bartolinis in a passive Jazz sound great in a band context, like a regular J bass with added thump but still really clear. What circuit does this have in it, is it a Bartolini TC or AGB?

Old MIM Fenders used to have the tuners arranged like that with the same string tree and no text on the back, might just be one of those with Barts and a Badass.

I used one of these quite happily until my cat knocked a glass of cider over it! Still works (just not 100%) and while the mic preamps weren't particularly good with very little clean headroom it was entirely powered off a 5v USB cable which also served as a data source so it was very handy as a portable practice tool.

I use one of these, currently £66 here for some reason (they're usually £90): https://www.dv247.com/en_GB/GBP/Soundcraft-Notepad-5/art-PAH0019334-000?campaign=PSM_UK/billiger&ProgramUUID=glvAqJar8tEAAAFoxv.P7Dz2

A Warmoth maple neck / rosewood board with frets and nut installed can be had from $205 or even as low a $180 if you can do the nut yourself, comes with two steel rods which can be upgraded to carbon for an extra $60. Here's what they have in stock: https://www.warmoth.com/Pages/ClassicShowcase.aspx?Bass=1&Body=1&Shape=38&Path=JBass&sort=price Dunno what shipping and fees would be but although it would work out a bit pricier than a MIM Fender I'd take a Warmoth over one of those every day. Could probably import an Allparts for around £250 or so.

I've bought the odd thing from him before although not for years now. Last thing I ordered was a fret guard thingy. Can't complain about the price or service which were both great. A good if eccentric seller IMO.

Also here's a photo from this forum where someone couldn't intonate their V7 Vintage (different bridge to the standard model) due to the design and positioning of bridge itself and through body holes: Again, not good.

Tuners are fine, just not particularly good if you are used to better ones. Same story with the bridge although that has (or had) a couple of design flaws with the oversize saddles and cheap intonation screws. Would be interesting to know if they changed these parts for the version 2 models. The original design for the 4 string bridge left users with no option to string through the body due to hole location and saddle size.The 5 was tight as well although the bridge was a different design so not as bad, through body stringing was possible but the angle coming off the saddle was very sharp. Tbh just putting new saddles would fix it rather than swapping out the entire bridge, as I said not sure if they have changed the design since the early days. This is from their own website:

That's because the rest of the bass is so ugly the silly scratchplate becomes a tertiary consideration after the janky shape and shoddy workmanship.

White scratchplates, especially big ones like on P basses. Just looks cheap no matter how it's done.

Did the HW1 have engraved neckplates?

Ah yeah, definitely looks like one of those, not a steal then! Wonder if he knows or not. Has the 60th diamond anniversary badge on the back of the headstock but not the matching neckplate. Did they all come with those that year or was it just the specific anniversary models?

To be fair the USA P Bass with hard case and Badass II looks to be an ok deal providing it's all legit. Neckplate doesn't look to have the F stamp: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-Precision-bass-2006-with-hard-case/193387785595?hash=item2d06cf6d7b:g:TiwAAOSwhQhecldO

Oof:

If you're using it with a preamp then a little powered cab would do, Alto TX208 might be worth trying at around £90 new.

I always thought the MkI pickups were fine but the matching preamp was underwhelming, did the switch to the Markbass pre not fix this?

Spotted these in FB earlier, definitely needs to sharpen his chisel before taking custom orders.

As it says, Android and iOS too I think: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=jp.co.korg.kaossilator.android&hl=en_GB

😂 It's just a Gator Pro Go Deluxe, they're about £90. Great gigbags though.

I would expect they'll be fine, I have Nordstrand pups in my V7 (nowt wrong with the originals, just a set came up cheap on here!) and they work fine with the stock pre so I can't imagine it wouldn't work the other way around. You can just desolder the pickups, jack, grounding and battery wires and the whole bell plate should lift out. There seems to be two versions of their preamp, the earlier one has two boards with a separate blend pot and the newer one is just a single board, I would expect yours is the single board version without all the stray wires hanging around so even easier: