Jaybeevee

How about a Human base RoxyB5.. If i'm not mistaken, i remember reading a positive comment from you wrt a classified add for one on here a while ago. I can't get them out the back of my mind... I never owned a 5er, but keep thinking i might, and that is the one i'd go for.... unless i could land a Stingray 5. Cracking review by Ed Friedland.

Almost. In Norway, band generally have a rented rehearsal space with their own gear, and so more with than one band it's useful to have more than one rig. The M6 is a recent purchase to support a new project. The TKS cabs I use with my Thunderfunk. The Mesa cab came to me cheap (and I have another 15 in a TL606 cab which I´ve had for years) and is why I´m at this point now. The M6 as it turns out and no surprise I guess is freakin fantastic and may well end up on top of the TKSs, but either way I need to upgrade the mesa and other 15 cab or move then on, and find me something more suitable. A nice luxury problem.

Some great wisdom, guidance and opinions in this thread. I appreciate, but some are a bit above my pay grade.. @balcro To be clear, it's an upgrade to the Mesa cab I am considering. just looking at volumes of the TL drawing you pasted, and a quick calc from the mesa cab dimensions. The TL drawing states 3.2 cu ft which google calculates a to be 90 litres. The Mesa cab Is coming in at 4,5 cu ft which is 127 litres? A few TB users seem to feel the Kappalite 3015 is a good match, but how to interpret driver specs and consider cab dimensions and baffle design to enable selection of a suitable driver is beyond me. I played the amp (M6 carbine) through my TKS 1126s and it is awesome.... which confirmed the need to change the driver or move on the Mesa cab. As legendary as it is, I miss the lows (or I am not used to the voicing of the mids).

Super thanks.. According to TB... Box Resonance Frequency: Normal: 55Hz Step down: 40Hz and a volume of 4,6 Cu ft

It's a 15L in my cab. Ribbed cone as apposed to smooth.

Hei, thanks for this, I have the volume and I see the cab is based on a TL606, but struggle to find the tuning frequency for this cab. And even after that, I actually don't know how to match the drivers. Any tips on that?... this is probably a technical deep dive...

I think this is the issue actually, and all the more noticeable at high volumes. Sounds lovely at lower volumes, and like a hammer at high volumes, but just not used to it and miss thickness of the bottom end. If I could get my hands on a diesel 2x10 or similar, I´d like to try that in combination, even though there are folk who disagree about mixing drivers.

Ah.. I haven't actually.. that I must do.. cheers

Thanks Bill, the 1/3 2/3 is a big number. I know I said there are a few folk saying the drivers I mentioned worked well, but they are of course opinions, and the drivers are also bloody expensive. I should be more sure of the specs I guess before I start ´experimenting´. just the type of advise I was hoping for.

Thanks, yeah, likely good advice.

Yep, in my chat group threads search I´ve read this a few times, but the 15 certainly lacks the deep lows I get from my current (and previous 12s). I´m guessing around 80Hz and up is what It delivers.. Thou I´ll likely be corrected about this. But goodness its loud..

yeah I read about that, to do with tuning the cab from 55Hz to 40Hz. I was thinking to test it with the standard drivers.

The last one here sold cheaper than that I think?

So I took a punt on an early Mesa 115 Diesel having read about the mid range prowess of the EVM 15L and B woofers. I remember them back in the day, but could never afford one and knew no one who could. And so the enthusiast in me decided why not. Got it cheap, so picked it up. It works great, is as loud as anything and has all the lower mid range grunt I read about. Trouble is, I miss the deep bottom of everything I´ve owned in the past 10 years. Anywho, I´m wondering if simply changing the driver for a modern 15 into the mesa enclosure will do the trick. I fancy a dabble with 15s and so having the Mesa cab and another non-descript TL606 design cab I´m thinking new drivers will do the trick. Any thoughts. just so it's said, I know there is a world of science behind enclosure design, build quality, ports etc, but having read some on this, it seems accepted by more than a few that Kappalite 3015 & or Faital pro PR400 woofers work with Mesa Diesel cabs. I´m a layman and looking to plug n play, so I´m not really looking for more technical awareness.. Just anyone with experience. Should I go down the upgrading route, or just buy used cab(s) designed and manufactured and with a known track record.. any thoughts?

No complaints here, Paul is defo one of the good guys. Very friendly and welcoming and trusting. A please to do a deal with Paul.. and the M6 Carbine is killer, so all happy here

Hi Bill, any chance you can flesh out this a little please. How does one maximise the decibels via cab selection/utilisation?

have you checked out Ian Allison on YouTube, he does some good walk throughs on this. But I will add I achieve what you're describing with the MXR.. word of warning though, It can be a bit tricky to dial in. It seems each of the controls affects the other, so you can end up chasing yourself around a little. But once set, it responds really well to your playing. You can get really good swell decay control from your plucking/picking hand. It's a bit sensitive to basses too, one setting doesn't fit all.

wow, never heard anything like that before. I can ask the question

Shucks, the point of my asking the initial question was just to help me understand something I haven't seen before. to try to figure out if I have an issue or not. I´m not sure naming the product is appropriate is all. I wouldn't like to suggest an issue that I am mistaken about (and it seems I am to some degree). The guys are really service minded and I don't want to betray that. It's no biggie, just being respectful

Thanks, yep.. when i posted the thread this is exactly what I was wrestling in my mind as this is what I was seeing. The builder didn't answer me dirctly on this point. I will ask him directly again. Wow, great info, really insightful. So am i understanding..? the driver input power in watts (same as the amp output power going into the speaker) varies considerably with regards to the frequency of the signal, the signal being volts. But what difference will a linear volume pot Vs a Log volume pot have on the user? based on my original query that volume at 11o'clock causing the amp to clip was both new and suspect to me? I was given the understanding that as a user, i can expect to set the master volume higher in it's range than i would normally expect to.. er go this is normal for this amp. Playing my Stingray wide open, with the pre amp (of the amp) set to it *crunch* position (on the gain dial) and the 6db drive button engaged (within the design intent of the pre-amp and without clipping at lower volumes) and then not getting past 11 o'clock on the master without clipping seemed like an issue, especially as it was (although quite loud) not loud enough to keep up a loud drummer.

I think in this case it does. it is apparently a different approach to that used in most amps. This is a point made by the builder leading me to understand that the pot position does relate to the power being delivered. Good idea, but I have returned it now. I wait and see what comes back This is knowledge above my pay grade, but in terms of the pot used on the master, the builder specifically talks about this aspect and that the power delivery from the amp is via a linear (not sure of the technical terms) pot, and the user can expect to run the master at a higher setting than would be normally expected.

Yeah, sure I could, but I was giving it a run. I wanted to test and hear various settings. I used the per-amp features in this case to get a nice not to dirty overdriven tone, and once found that, I wanted it loud enough to play with the drummer. The amp wouldn't deliver this without clipping. The high pass thing.. gawd knows..