SpondonBassed

Aw shucks. 'T were nowt.

Lovely. I want to get myself inlaid when I'm old enough. Tattoos are old hat.

Quo?

In this context it makes no difference. I agree however that three wheeled cars fall over more often than four wheeled ones.

The milking parlour stool is a very good example of what you're trying to say. Three legs good, four legs bad. This is a sound engineering principle but it does not apply to this situation. An accurately cut neck pocket made for a the neck root giving you a push fit is what makes the joint strong. The screws are only there to keep the mating surfaces in close contact. If there are lumps in the woodwork, there is something very wrong. If a shim job is badly executed it can compromise the contact surface area too. In those cases, no number of screws or bolts (even using thread inserts) will help. You can't polish a turd. You can't make a silk purse from a sow's ear. Again, three legs good, four legs bad. It works for objects that need stability on uneven surfaces but it does not carry across to the neck joint. What makes the neck joint work is the large surface area where the two pieces meet. The screws (bolts if you like) simply hold the two pieces in contact.

Hahahaha! Three boltless necks.

I can only think you are associating "Spondon" with Spondon motorcycle frames. I live in Spondon and I was an all weather motorcyclist for twenty five years but I have never owned a Suzuki. My last was a '95 Triumph Tiger. Spondon Engineering used to put all makes of engine in their frames. Welcome to you both.

Welcome Jonny.

Fair enough. Another way of increasing the longevity of the female thread is to apply wax to the male thread before each assembly. This is the method I have witnessed most and the one I'd have a personal preference for. This works for any number of bolts. To address the OP, if a vintage instrument has survived 'til now with a three bolt neck, I'd say the job's a good 'un.

Welcome ctate. Are you here as his agent then?

I spot faced the top on my Pit Bull to get all of the control spindles parallel to each other and to conceal the nuts where they would otherwise show beneath the skirts of the control knobs. The "floor" of the control cavity was flat and I found it easier to leave it that way than trying to match the top's contour. I wondered how it would be to have the each of the spindles perpendicular to where they are located on the curve of the top. On mine the curve isn't so pronounced and would not be worth the extra work but I reckon it's going to look great on yours. I've learned a great deal from you on this topic. What you say about grit sizes above is really helpful. I always wondered why my sanding technique started off looking good but then went backwards with the finer grits. Cool headstock. It's the bits.

Welcome Jackie. I'll second the nomination for Rory Gallagher. A proper seventies performer. If you can find anything by The Bogey Boys they're worth a listen too. It's great to see former lurkers stepping up. Good on yer.

Is that your way of saying; Give us a go on it mister? I like your style.

That's no way to talk about Twitter subscribers.

You're in good company then. Even the pros have their moments of doubt.

That should have read - massive malfunction.

Dunno mate but can you do any Quo?

With black hardware? Ebony.

I wondered about noise from that sort of kit. I larfed at the FB comment.

Wow. Thanks Dan. Nice neck. Not too intense. What's Instagram? Heeheehee. I suspect that instagram users will have some sort of root kit installed on their machines to allow access to their image store. I believe you can buy instruments that do that but they'd be associated with things like Rock School which is a games console application. I don't think it is available on "proper" instruments. I'd be happy to be corrected if that's wrong what with advances in tech and all.

I only get a large grey rectangle Dan, no image. Have you got another image source please?

My knowledge of clipping lights is limited but I'd have thought they were set up to warn you that you are about to reach the amp's limitations before they are audible. If you go on that principle then, as with VU metering, you'd aim to hit the light briefly but only at the loudest points in your performance. That said, you'd be okay with a touch of a glimmer on The One in each bar.

I think that's a great idea and not unlike one I have been mulling over for a while. PMd. I'm glad that you confirmed that was the case. I suspected that I might have problems with the intensity of neck mounted LEDs due to a couple of problems that are affecting my sight. I want to set some time aside to play with fibre optics to see if I can get that space cadet glow.

I haven't got a band, I don't know any guitarists and I'm not Welsh. Call me by my given name please.

'sup chap? Have you hit a snag? Perhaps we can discuss it on your build topic...