SpondonBassed

Is it rock wool? In any case, I am sure you will find a new home for it in the 'hood.

It's always good when folk who've been here a while join in.

Great news. I hope you get good use from it now. It looks reet smart like.

Welcome ProjectWerewolf.

I don't think the top coats will be compatible. You'd have to test everything to be certain. Time to call in @Andyjr1515 as he's been dabbling like a mad scientist in this area.

Then I'd suggest trying a test on a separate bit of similar timber. See if you can apply Linseed Oil as a first coat then use the grain filler followed by a top coat of Linseed Oil buffed back to a dry finish. It's not something I'd recommend. I do like the smell of Linseed Oil though so good luck.

Forum glitch. The reply box is not revealing that the post has hit the site. Sorry for the extra posts

Forum glitch. The reply box is not revealing that the post has hit the site. Sorry for the extra posts

I don't think Linseed Oil is like Tru Oil, Gun Oil, Danish Oil or Teak Oil. All of those are essentially thin varnishes. Apart from that, I can't see any reason why you can't use Linseed Oil. I'd do a test in the control cavity to see if the grain filler lifts after oiling to be certain. Similarly with top coats, do a test. PS: Linseed Oil is usually used to preserve wood from within and you'd want it to penetrate the pores. Grain filler will negate that. What was your reason for choosing Linseed Oil? Is it handy or something?

Welcome Olicor.

Welcome Joan.

...on the other hand... I am also finding the forum difficult at the moment. You miss a day and the posts with photos accumulate. Cuh!

I can see nothing wrong with a lighter fretboard. It's worked on some of the well known brands. The photo above is not the right tint but with a bit of amber colouring I think it'd work.

Welcome Suku.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Good luck with it.

It's no harm to undo the fasteners and redo them in the order of ; 1, 5, 3, 7, 4, 8, 6 and 2.

The push test should be done with even pressure by the way. There is no value in doing the points of the compass.

I had this with a combo back in 1986. My mate asked me to have a look at it. Thinking first that it sounded as if the output transistors had gone I checked and found them okay. When it came to the push test it became apparent. Fortunately, that driver had a back plate secured with machine screws and I was able to loosen the screws and realign the parts successfully. The Fane unit however doesn't look like it was made that way. You might get some movement of the magnet about its axis with carefully applied force using a rag to protect the magnet from shattering forces but its a long shot.

I daren't think of the implications... Good news though.

It's possible that the voice coil is in physical contact with the sides of the gap in which it should normally run unhindered. This can be caused by a displacement of the magnet following a hard impact. Is the magnet eccentric to the backing plate or the frame? Anatomy of a Loudspeaker

That'll save our planet from a few wet wipes. Keep it up lad.

Aw. At least whoever takes it on should benefit from the bit you've done. GLWTS

It'd have to be good with 2x15" in a 2x12" cab... I'd wager you'd never be short of honk.

Good man! Slap is just another tool to have in the toolkit