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SpondonBassed

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by SpondonBassed

  1. Skin and snot. I understand your point of view now.
  2. No. What I meant was that the saddles being centred at 17" from the twelfth almost halves the saddles' useable travel since intonation adjustments will always make the string free length more than 17" but never less. If you set the saddles to the shortest free string length then measure your 17" you will end up with the most useable adjustment.
  3. Good man! I have one observation in that the free string length should never be less than the scale length (34") so you could gain a little extra saddle adjustment over what you have now with the saddles 17" from the twelfth at the centre of adjustment. I think that's right anyway. Perhaps someone else could confirm this for me.
  4. Great job! I like the colours you chose.
  5. Might be worth searching or asking in the Repairs and Technical section.
  6. Thanks for sharing. Inspirational thread. I'd like to think that, in another life, I would be doing similar projects.
  7. I think a contact adhesive would be best but very difficult to apply without wrinkles. @Andyjr1515 applies veneer to guitar bodies by applying PVA adhesive to both surfaces, allowing them to become touch dry then ironing the veneer in place to activate the PVA. If this method could be used with heavy wallpaper it would allow for adjustment sufficient to eliminate all wrinkles.
  8. Way beyond my expertise but very interesting. Will the printed case be strong enough to take repeated impacts in normal use?
  9. Maybe a nice Paisley flock?
  10. Thank you. Yes. I played it for a while and then decided I liked it enough to get the bass it was derived from, the Ibby SR605. I need to revisit it at some point and recess the bridge. As it is now, mounted on the surface, there isn't enough adjustment to get the action as low as I like. It is playable but only with the saddles sat right down on the bridge plate. I have no thoughts about the pickups at this time. If I go down that rabbit hole I will probably end up with a chain of upgrades as each individual mod shows up the next weak link in the chain. Like yourself, I felt the screws needed replacing. They're stainless steel rather than black to match the hardware but I like that. In addition to drilling pilot holes, a little candle wax on the threads helps a lot to reduce friction as they're tightened up It plays well enough for a kit so I'm happy with it.
  11. Good one. If I mentioned it already forgive me. I built the IB5 kit a couple of years ago. Pitbull IB5
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