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SpondonBassed

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by SpondonBassed

  1. I hope you lot appreciate how hard it is not to follow that with a Peter Frampton clip. You're welcome.
  2. I'll take the time to say, thanks! for that because I've run out of reactions for the day.
  3. Also, if you tune your G string, the easiest to hear, you can use harmonics for relative tuning from the G for the D, A and E. EG: When in tune, the harmonic at the seventh fret on the G string is the same as at the fifth fret on the D string and so on.
  4. ...and another thing... why would anyone name a bass after a drum?
  5. While we wait, here is a man with a lot of them. Remember those machines in Vision On?
  6. This one? Or did you get a relic'd version? Nice either way. Gosh that would need a lot of green shield stamps to buy though.
  7. I think that is worthy of quote in the Famous Quotes topic.
  8. How about making a mould? Clingfilm the neck and pour some plaster of paris into a box mould then sit the neck, face up, into the plaster. You'd need just enough to follow most of the neck contour and with a spirit level on top to maintain the level determined by the bottom of the mould. You should end up with something that you can clamp. I should check first how hot it gets as it goes off first though. A thick wad of it might overheat the neck. I wouldn't use two pack body filler for that reason.
  9. Oh that works WELL. The 3d badge brings out the 3d effect of the pearloid(?).
  10. In fairness, I think most of us do by now. I hadn't considered the copper tape being visible as needing a solution. As an amateur, I have tolerated it in my kit and Frankenbass builds. I've even made a subtle feature of it on my not so subtle YamaCore. If you can't be ǻrsed to hide it, flaunt it, I suppose. I really must make a better translucent scratchplate for it though. I love the way you've used the technology to make something worthy of its sophistication rather than trying to reproduce the traditional build methods with current tooling.
  11. I quite like the look of hammered pine (for want of a better term). You see it on well worn pine dining tables that have been waxed regularly and where the soft wood between the harder, more dense, rings has settled to leave tactile ridges. With such a regular grain as yours I think it would look and feel good. I suppose it's a nod towards relicing but it could be applied as a new finish in the same way that you can hammer copper sheet to achieve a textured surface.
  12. I notice that your top is overlapping the pickup routs. Would that be to allow for the two P pickup halves to be angled, following the fretboard curvature, without leaving a visibly large gap around the pickups? Also the J to be angled to favour the G string's lesser oscillations compared with the E? Or summat...
  13. Joking aside, this is rapidly becoming one of my favourites among your builds. The only thing extra I think I might have asked for would be a bend well, KingBass stylee, as I think the club shaped end would lend itself to one but that's neither here nor there. Nice work as always. Respect to @Jus Lukin for commissioning it. I reckon from now on you will be doing much more than just looking. There's going to be a fair bit of noodling too.
  14. No need to apologise. We find it useful to have someone to distract the mods occasionally... Heeheehee
  15. It looks like you've transferred the bow to the dining table. Mrs 1515 will be displeased.
  16. I agree. They fit with the overall look but I'm an engineer. They don't sit comfortably with me. Are they brass? Do you have them lacquered to slow the tarnishing effect?
  17. I don't like tort. Apart from that they both look fine.
  18. Edit: As previously mentioned: Are you using the same gauge strings for each pair? Otherwise I don't think that statement is right. You may find the higher frets sound discordant with paired octaves.
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