SpondonBassed

Welcome Binuche.

Welcome Bassosaku.

...and the string tree/retainer? (I wasn't going to mention it in my previous post to save you embarrassment but @MoonBassAlpha has no such scruples so yeah... that.) Heeheehee

Good Luck With The Sale... I like your version better though and I'm stealing it.

Andy? Have you any plans to make the cut ends of the strings safe other than cutting them as close to the clamps as you dare? I know from experience that, with headless, you can overshoot so easily if there's no volute and I'd worry about snagging myself on those as they appear in your recent photos. I'm keen to see how you finish the neck end. I'm gathering ideas for my own build down the line somewhere.

It needn't be said but GLWTS anyway. It's smashing looking. Are you putting up any clips for us to hear it?

I believe the rule of thumb used to be 90m for cat5 cable before you needed to address signal loss.

Nice one.

Thanks for the detailed explanation of low pass filtering. I'm one of those who is easily overwhelmed when presented with too many options but your explanation has helped my understanding somewhat. Cheers!

In the interests of transparency, as they say these days, here is a full cast list for The French Connection. Well done that man! It's always good when someone steps up to answer a call for assistance.

That or donate it to me. I'm going through a bit of a Frankenbass phase just now. Heeheehee

Black Beauty.

In a way you would be if you've filled in the PU cavities where the new drill bit needs to bite into a flat surface.

Sorry to hear. Don't bin it though.

Of course they will... If you are the Big J. It's one thing to do the measuring and cutting as described but it's another to achieve the desired effect as well as you seem capable. Respect.

You are speaking about drilling a socket hole. In that case you are drilling. I am talking about the first part of the job which was to enlarge the cut-outs for the PU's ears, if you will. You can't enlarge a part of a hole with a drill bit and not have problems with wandering and chatter. You need to replace the material that was removed where the body of the PU sits adjacent to the ear cut-outs then drill and enlarge a whole hole, if you get me, not part of one. Hope this helps clarify my awkward wording.

I've been thinking about this. (Brace yourselves) You may find that it is impossible to keep ANY sort of drill bit true to its centre mark without you first bond a piece of similar wood in to restore the other side of the notional hole that you are about to enlarge*. Of course, you have to remove it after but it would be worth considering if you go that route (Not an intentional pun. Never mention it again please). *Edit: You'd need the inserted piece to fill the existing cut-out too of course. This gives you a surface that is flush with the top and a fresh start for the new, larger, drilling.

I have aeronautical engineering licences for commercial jets and their airframes but I ain't about to make a custom 747 for myself. Don't sweat it.

I'm planning one for myself. I'm an amateur builder though. It might take some time...

Just as a guide to what some of the jargon means: UK terminology is similar but this image was handiest to use at the time of writing. One thing worth saying before someone shouts "Dremel!" is that you should not attempt to use a Dremel unless you are well experienced with how it can kick. That way you should not end up with a notch in your curve (man).

I thought I was answering a cry for help but there you go.

I've heard of a keyboardist searching for that lost chord but to lose a whole keyboardist...? Well that's just careless.

You might find this topic haddockuate then.

Welcome Lizzy. As Dood says, it looks very much like a hack.

Enter the boffin zone... I'm loving the initial sketch. It flows well.