SpondonBassed

Welcome Manfan.

Welcome GB.

Welcome GB.

Welcome Antozzi.

Welcome PG.

If you collect enough of them together in one place you create an enormous gravity well. This leads to the spawning of a wormhole in the fabric of the universe. Just point it at the venue and walk right in with an Elf and a long cable.

It's great to see you going from strength to strength Marco.

Very interested. Thanks for starting this thread. To edit the title, you have to edit your OP. On the editing screen you should find the title edit box near the top.

Is two factor authentication not a choice then? I have chosen not to adopt it. I'm hoping it wont be imposed upon me given all of the difficulty it seems to cause other members. Also young man, why have you been absent from the DoI? Your contributions there are missed. Pull your socks up! Heeheehee.

Welcome Sarah. Have you tried Basschat's Musicians Wanted page?

Welcome Debagio.

It's nice when you can get under the hood, so to speak, and fix it yourself. I like how neatly you did your wiring.

Have you managed to get the cf edges sealed so that they do not fray? Not that you'd have a problem if that's flush mounted. I was wondering if nail varnish would work.

Is the 20x40 aluminium also 2040 high temperature alloy? Or is it a coincidence that the dimensions make it look like that? 2040 Aluminium Alloy There are so many different alloys of aluminium. It's a very interesting metal to work with There are many flavours of alloy to play with. It gets really interesting when you get into the various heat treatments. Great pedal board. I like the red bits especially. I don't think it will fit on my tricycle though.

Lovely bit of wiring that,

I think I may have lost more brain cells to beer than to my leaded soldering days. @Jean-Luc Pickguard - How are you getting on?

Stick with what you are comfortable with. You're an adult and you can do the risk assessment for yourself. It's probably insignificant for small scale hobbyists anyway. If you're doing it every day you might want to read up on the symptoms of lead poisoning though. Honestly, I don't find it any more or less difficult with lead free.

Did you use a solder that has it's own flux? Or maybe use a dedicated flux that you can apply more precisely to where it's needed? Sorry to say, it's dead easy. Just like brazing*. * Brazing is similar to soldering but uses brass as the filler metal. It needs much higher temperatures and a gas torch is often used to achieve them. Not recommended for use on musical instruments however.

I can't understand why people say this. What's wrong with it? I have used it and found it just as easy to use as the old leaded solder.

I could not get on with the interface on ours. It worked well, it was just that I didn't find anything intuitive about it. I hope the GUI is better on today's software.

Nice one. I was involved with manufacturing these for a short while. With what I learned, I'd source a second hand pool table and base the build on top of that if I were to make another one. Ideal for mass production of small parts or larger one off projects. The ones we made were hefty enough to machine aluminium billet.

@Stub Mandrel Do you know about this?

Don't ask me, I have no sodding idea! As to your main question, I suggest you do some test pieces and, if necessary, increase the tip temperature by a few degrees and test repeatedly until you are getting consistently good results. You might find that your new iron works with lead-free from the off. It's likely to have been made with lead-free in mind as the default since leaded solder is no longer used in new products. I retired my dad's "antique" soldering iron recently. To replace it I bought a new iron. It worked perfectly. I don't know what temperature it operates at though, sorry.

It certainly does and it definitely is. Cheers!

When I said "embed" the idea was to print a layer that is composed of different coloured sections that combine to make an image. I chose the wrong word. I should have said "inlay" an image. I'd make images in monochrome or combine more colours to make the inlay in the background layer. The transparent top layer, as you suggest, could be perspex or lacquer. My choice would be transparent or tinted resin. With a bit of effort one could design a true 3d image (a very thin one) floating in resin.