SpondonBassed

Has anyone used one of these compressors extensively? I've just got mine out of storage and dusted it off. I never got the opportunities to play with it properly at the time of purchase and then of course... tech moved on. The review says it works well with semi-pro equipment. I'd like to use it again because the four channel mixer may provide some interesting options for me. I am particularly interested to see if anyone's used one at a gig. I have a Roland TR-606 that will almost certainly sound better running through one of the channels and mixed with my bass on t'other. Instant one man rhythm section - hoorah! I have a Zoom B3 with several compressor models on it too. It should be fun comparing new and old tech.

Yet it doesn't show up in your gait.

Flattered.

Is that the thing that looks like a school compass? What's it for please?

@Burns-bass was here first so I'll wait my turn.

Are they Superwound for 34 inch scale by any chance? You can tell because only the core wire of each string touches its respective saddle. The windings start between the bridge and the bridge pup. If they're superwound and if @BreadBin doesn't have them and they are for a 3 over 2 headstock I would like to put my name down on your shortlist.

Oh that's going to be a stunner with the hardware on. Good luck with the move. I trust we will hear from you when you've got the family safely settled in Italy.

BC's a great place to be innit.

I will be eternally grateful that you did not start off with a fart. With us older fellows, we all know what the follow-through will be like.

A wise musician tried to warn us many years ago...

I looked up the wiki for WD40 and as Fleabag says, WD stands for Water Displacement. The main wiki says that the 40 indicates that it was formula number 40 that the firm's boffins claimed had achieved the desired effect. While I can not dispute that, it is not what we were told during an aero mechanic's apprenticeship, forty years ago. I'm holding onto that. Either story is just that. It's up to you what you believe but the water displacement thing is well proven and you will need to re-apply the stuff periodically on whatever piece of ferrous metal or electrical equipment you want kept dry. It may or may not last for forty days. How long it lasts will depend on how often you get sweaty enough to saturate your bridge I suppose.

Bang on. Plus Gas is in fact an easing fluid. It's thinner than 3 in 1 penetrating oil too so it works a little quicker when you need to try and salvage a seized screw. It's best to take the bridge off before you use it however because it will get everywhere you don't want it to be.

WD 40 is a code that I seem to remember the US Navy or Air Force stores came up with for a compound that is capable of displacing water from the surfaces to which it is applied for a minimum of 40 days. Adam is correct. It was never manufactured to lubricate anything. It is however a good treatment to help prevent rust from happening in the first instance. All you need is a little spray on saddle screw threads that have been wire brushed free of loose particles and a dab with an absorbent rag to remove excess before reinstalling them. It will stop water from sweat or elsewhere from creating favourable conditions for rust. Lubricating oil is not usually needed for properly machined saddle screws in the quantity that it would take to protect all surfaces if indeed at all. WD40 is therefore a good call. If you don't gig and you don't need the sweatproofing, use dry powdered graphite (pencil "lead" scrapings will do) to coat the threads. That way you can preclude the escape of lubricating oil onto paint finishes or into exposed wood grain. For rust to occur, three things need to be present: 1. Iron or other Ferrous metal alloy (including most grades of SS believe it or not) 2. Water 3. Oxygen Eliminate any one of those three things and rust can not occur. Note: It is well worth paying for the best fitting screw driver or allen key you can afford to use on your saddles. The screw heads will last longer that way.

Welcome Baccarin.

Welcome Mitchell.

I am sorry. I didn't intend to give the impression that I was knocking your nuts. I am well in favour of precise nuts. Everyone should have 'em, even the lasses.

It must be nice to have your nuts numerically controlled and machined by computers.

Licencing is one of the reasons for me not subscribing to the Internet for anything crucial in my life. Ts and Cs are another aspect of this. I am not physically capable of reading all of them, much less understanding them clearly. It might be "the way of things" but none of those sort of things are welcome in my life. I manage fine doing things in the time proven manner that I was brought up with. I still love analogue but then I don't have to deal with "The Industry". If I was gigging, I'd have to get someone else to manage the fine print just to use social media. BC is all the social media I need for now ta. I've already spent enough of my life working with I.T. hardware and software to realise that it was not the best career move for me. I understand the technicalities of digital media better than most but I find most of it shrouded in hyperbole and feature bloat. I also have serious objections to having a well used piece of software made useless by its own updates as has happened on occasion. Now that a great deal of Internet content is commercial, I spend little time on it. Apart from this site there is only one other that I visit regularly and that's a search engine. I've done with endless registrations, subscriptions (free or otherwise), third party scripts and ruddy COOKIES. Thank you, good night. On the other hand, I love my PC best when it is offline as I like to write and draw for my own pleasure.

Please be aware that it sometimes works faultlessly. Quite often I paste a YT link that does not embed on submission to the BC website. I've found that by editing the post and pasting the link again (deleting the first instance in the process) it then embeds. Funny innit?

That's a great subject for debate around these parts. I'm sure a search will reveal some of the more rational debates on the subject of Genuine vs Copy as well as the, er, passionate ones.

Even if you aren't buying one of their kits I can recommend you look at PitBull Guitars' clips. They have a number of useful short videos using methods and tooling that are easy to pick-up. My own kit build is linked from my signature file (below, unless you're on a mobile thingy).

Welcome Day262.

Welcome Z.

Welcome TN.

Welcome Grace. Excellent choice of forum to start you off, if I may say.