CameronJ

Very true. Assuming they’re both 8 ohm cabs and given that the BBT will be rated for far more wattage than the One10, @chris_b is totally correct. Unbalanced is the word.

I believe Alex Claber’s advice is that mixing any of the 10” driven cabs with each other is fine, and mixing any of the 12” driven cabs with each other is fine, but mixing the driver sizes together is not so great. Ultimately though, the world won’t end if you do decide to do it. If it sounds good...

This. On paper it seems like something that wouldn’t make a huge difference to the playing experience...but it does!

Heresy.

Recently bought Mark’s Mono M80 Dual Bass case. An easy experience from start to finish - great communication and swift postage. Pleasure doing business with you sir!

Jon Willis is doing great work. I’ve downloaded all his patches and I have to say he really knows what he’s doing. The website is a very new thing (I think it’s only been online for a week or so) but his Facebook group is where it’s at. Jon himself often posts videos demoing new sounds which he’s either releasing or still tweaking to get just right. If you comment in the group saying something like “Trying to get the bass sound that ‘X’ had on ‘Y’ album. Any suggestions?” Jon is likely to reply either suggesting adjustments to an existing patch of his, or he’ll cook something up from scratch that fits the bill. Bearing in mind he’s doing all this for free as a community resource, I can only applaud him!

There was one going for a decent price a while ago on Facebook which I think @Cuzzie snapped up while I was twiddling my thumbs. So I ended up paying full price for mine from Bass Direct. Still worth it IMO! When Martin at The Bass Gallery saw the price tag he was like “is that price for real?”

I hear you. I’ve listened to so many bassists who sound absolutely godlike with a solo’d bridge J pup. Not I!

Wow. Picked my Super P up from @thebassgallery earlier and have just gotten a chance to give her a proper spin at home. Just spent the past hour or so joyously noodling and I can say I’m very pleased with the Tonestyler! This bass always sounded great but this has just kicked it up a notch. I’ve got the “Bass Ten” version and it just gives me everything I could want tonally. I feel like I have an active bass but with 1 knob! Love the fact they’ve included the “pickups straight to jack” setting, bypassing the circuit altogether for maximum treble content, and on the other end of the spectrum I really enjoy the “sub” setting at full counter-clockwise on the knob. Though for slightly more articulation and definition while still feeling very subby I prefer just one notch clockwise from the “sub” setting. Everything in between is really delightful and I found myself just now realising I could cop a reasonable upright sound with this thing in a way I couldn’t really do before. Must be that mid frequency hump. A fantastic bass just got fantastic-er. Anyone wondering whether to take the plunge and go for a Tonestyler. Just do it. They aren’t cheap but I’d say they’re worth it.

Ah, that’s helped quell my GAS, thanks

Though at that price I couldn’t justify it. @thebassgallery had one in a while ago for a great price though: https://thebassgallery.com/collections/bass/products/g-l-l5000

@ped you’ve got me eyeing one of these now: https://www.mercatinomusicale.com/mm/a_g-l-5000_id4670194.html

There may be a few isolated incidents of hardware malfunction but (and this isn’t to brush the issues under the carpet for those who have had issues) but when a company the size of Line 6/Yamaha mass produces such a complex product line as Helix, there will always be the odd problem here and there with a small percentage of units. Think of how many tens of thousands of Helix/Rack/LT/Stomp/Effects units there must be worldwide. It’s inevitable with an operation of this scale. Plus, Line 6 have shown themselves to be very responsive to customers with product issues so personally I’m not worried. Though as @Al Krow says, always have a back up plan just in case. p.s. In the case of folk having issues with power when running the Stomp from a non-official power supply, Line 6 explicitly say they don’t encourage people to use anything other than the Line 6 PSU. If using a third party power supply make sure you’re supplying enough current. Some people have gotten away with powering the stomp with 1A...depending on your usage not everyone will be able to do so reliably. Some pedalboard power supplies have greater tolerances than others. Do your homework folks.

Quite jealous of Lee in this video! Cool jams. It’s a shame these V10s on,y come in those two colours though - I’d hoped that the natural maple one with black pickguard on the stand behind them was another option but alas, no. I should have known really as it didn’t have a roasted neck!

Truth

My MTD Kingston Super 5 - and all MTD Kingston 5ers - has 19mm string spacing. So does my Dingwall. Special mention goes out to my Yamaha BB735a with 18mm which is very comfortable. Lakland 5ers are 19mm too. As are Ibanez BTBs. Sandbergs have adjustable string spacing from between 18mm - 19.5mm I think. Sire basses are 18mm. These are all off the top of my head so I’m happy to be corrected, but the point I’m trying to make is that basses with wider string spacing aren’t uncommon. Also, and this isn’t necessarily aimed at you @itu but more for those who may be new to 5 stringers: I’d strongly argue that the shape of the neck, fingerboard radius and string spacing at the nut are just as important as spacing at the bridge. For example, playing an MTD and an Ibanez BTB side by side feels very different despite them both having 19mm spacing at the bridge. The MTD tapers to a narrower nut width than the Ibanez, plus the MTD has an asymmetric neck profile with a bit more meat to it whereas the Ibanez has a wider nut and a flatter neck profile. These things create a huge difference in playability between the two instruments. Bridge string spacing really isn’t everything.