karlthebassist

I guess either that 13th fret could be crowned a little too low or the 14th a little too tall.

OK, So I got my original GS112 back from the menders today. Haven't tried it, but I assume it works fine. The other one will go back in a few day when I can be bothered to post it. My concern now, is that I've got a practice on Thur Fri and Sunday this week with 3 different bands. First band is quiet so I'll probably take my 1x10 cab, but the other two are loud bands. On Friday I practice in the room with the dodgy electrics... which could have pooed my second cab. What could I do to protect my equipment from potentially dodgy electrics? I don;t want to risk damaging another cab! (not that its what damaged the other one, but i cant be sure until i get it checked out) what mains protection is there that is GOOD. not like a belkin multi socket thing, but a propper protective device? cheers

Status do P-bass pups - ask them how they would describe the tone. Most status stuff is pretty hifi.

I think it would be a really easy mod to do (although you'd have to make a new scratch plate from a blank, as I don't think you'd get eaily with the P hole) and well worth doing. I personally find the PJ pup config tonally superior and more flexable over the JJ config. Don't get me wrong, I still REALLY want a nice jazz, but a solo'd neck J pup cannot match the tone of a P pup IMO... I have a MIM P-bass that I converted to a PJ setup, but often think that given the chance I would perfer a J body (but keeping the P neck) as the shape is so much better. I might make one eventually if i can get hold of a Jazz body to make a template from. I say go for it. It can always be un-done. Its only wood at the end of the day, and it's hidden under a plate. [sniggering to self at "P-hole"] :brow:

Ah man! I forgot about Farnell! Cheers man.

Hey Does anyone have like 10 or 20 22Mohm resistors that I could buy off them? .25w or .5w would be fine. Just I can't find them anywhere. If not I guess I'll have to put some 10's in series and do with that. Cheers Karl

To me, if something looks and is built like it should cost a lot of money, then fine - let it cost lots of money. If someone has obviously made it a labour of love, put their hear and soul into making it, then I think it only fair that the price reflects the quality of what you are getting. Ritter Royals - many many people think they are too expensive, a price you can't justify etc, but becasuse there are people out there who have very deep pockets and will buy something just becasue they like it (not nesicerily becasue they need it or can even use it), it has allowed Jens Ritter to do exactly what he wants to do with his life and make beautiful instruments. And some even find their way into the hands of very good musicians! I cannot justify spending £5,350 on a bass based upon my playing ability. I can't justify £500 on a bass for the same reason - but, becasue its what I enjoy I have spent more than £500 on several basses/guitars and I use my love of playing as my justification for buying them. If I were to win the lottery or something, dispite not being able to justify owning one based upon my ability, I would order a Ritter Royal as soon as I could, simply becasue I think they are so beautiful. I would not, however, be buying any Gus G3's... :wacko:

You should check out Tim Commerford's rig. He uses 3 heads and 3 cabs. Dunno what he uses now, make wise, but he was using 3 Ampeg SVT-2PRO heads, an 8x10 and two 4x10's All with separate heads, 8x10 cab always running clean, 4x10 always set quite dirty and another 4x10 set really dirty. Using a splitter box he runs the 810 clean channel all the time and kicks either of the other two 410's in additionaly (or both i think) when he wants some filth. So I suppose a simple version of his chain would be Bass Guitar >>>>> splitter channel A (always on) >>>>> Clean signal >>>> head and cab A channel B >>>>>> some distortion/overdrive >>>> head and cab B channel C >>>>>> some other distortion/overdrive >>>> head and cab C Nightmare for the sound guy!

You should be able to acurately mark out acurately between 1/4 and 1/2mm. As Al said, its going to be affected by other matters anyway. Advice when marking lines that you are going to cut - use a stanley knife or scalple. A prencil line can be left in or taken out when cutting/sanding/planeing up to it, so there can always be a bit of error. Dont mark tempoary lines with a knife thought or you'll have a bass covered in cuts!

[quote name='stevie' post='752131' date='Feb 20 2010, 07:53 PM']But the first faulty speaker had a manufacturing fault - you didn't cause it. It's irrelevant to the current problem and certainly doesn't make it any more likely that you damaged the second one, which is what your dealer seems to be saying. I wouldn't buy that. If you haven't overdriven the speaker (which seems to be the case from what you have said), you should get a warranty replacement. Chin up![/quote] I forgot to mention in my previous post but the dealer is giving me the benifit of the doubt over wether or not this cab is faulty or if something else has damaged it and theyre going to check it out for me. I didn't catch the guys name on the phone, but its definately who ive dealt with before and hes a nice chap. They have given me really good service so far with what i have brought from them in the past, so im positive they will do the best they can for me - if its my fault its damaged then i have to buy a new driver, if its a manufactureres fault then aguilar have to supply a new driver - no the dealers aren't going to loose out either way really. My old cab should be back with me soonish though, so chin is up

[quote name='stevie' post='751635' date='Feb 20 2010, 10:51 AM']The prognosis is starting to look a lot better. You need to do one more thing to rule out a damaged coil. (I'm glad you have a multimeter - that certainly simplifies things). It's possible that the coil former has expanded slightly due to excessive heat but that there is still enough gap to allow the coil freedom of movement when it is cold. The scraping and consequent distortion will therefore happen only when the coil is warm. So, allow the speaker to cool down for half a day, then try it. If the distortion starts straight away, your coil is OK. The reason you need to be absolutely sure that the coil has not been fried is that virtually any other fault is covered by warranty. I suspect what has happend is that the glue between the surround and the chassis has failed at the point where you are pressing. The surround is flapping against the chassis here and producing a nasty noise. Whatever is is, your best bet is to make a warranty claim because your speaker almost certainly has a manufacturing defect. It's not quite clear to me whether you bought this cab new, but remember that Eminence in the US offers a 7-year warranty against manufacturing defects. So you should be covered. Let us know how you get on.[/quote] I've tried the cab again this morning and the fuzzyness is still there. I rang the dealer from who I brought the cab and asked them about my other one that they still have. In that one, the coil had just failed - their expert too the actual driver apart and diagnosed that and that driver is being replaced under warrenty. Fingers crossed I should get it back at the end of next week. I told him about this cab and I'm going to send the actual driver off to him once I get my other cab back for his tech chap to look at. He said that he has only ever had a couple of problems with Aguilar gear in all the time he's dealt them, and for me to have two faults is a bit too much to be a coincidence - to which I agree with him fully. As his expert said, the first cab was definately a fault, but this one... dunno. I'm going to get my amp checked by a pro to make sure its ok. Only other thing that needs checking is the electrics in the practice room. Which we already know to be far from perfect... Rubbish rubbish rubbish rubbish rubbish rubbish rubbish rubbish [quote name='Delberthot' post='752021' date='Feb 20 2010, 06:28 PM']One other cause - have you checked to make sure that the cable going from the speaker to the output jack isn't touching the back of the cone. that's happened to someone on here before with a Schroeder cab I think[/quote] Yes that was one of my first thoughts, that there might have been something touching the inside of the cone and I checked that first - they had tied the cables in a way that they can't flop onto the cone - so wasn't that. Thanks for your reply though - I only wish it had been something so simple.

Oh dear I hope thats not it! Multimeter reading for the driver is 7.92 Ohms, so pretty good there, and I cant feel any risistance or scraping when I flex the cone in and out. I could be wrong thought. - cheers for that Stevie. It sounds like its actually coming from the very edge of the cone itself. Im sure I wasn't driving the amp too hard, so I'm baffled as to what could have caused the damage. The practice room we use had pretty dodgy electrics... I'm going to try and see my techy bloke this weekend. I feel another expense coming on

Yeah all that stuff is fine. I have checked the amp and everything on my other little bass cab. I have the speaker out again now and have checked every inch of the cone, front and back and cannot see any damage at all. Looks like a brand new speaker (which it pretty much is!).

Hi Just got back from practice having stopped after hearing some nasty-asss distortion coming from my GS112. There is a kind of fuzzy edged distortion coming out of it at pretty much any volume. I've just had the cover off and checked the cone out - there is absoloutly no visiable damage to the cone or the bit around the edge that flexes to let the cone move in and out (whats it called?). However, when i play a note so that distortion comes in, if i put my finger on certain parts of the flexy edge bit the distortion stops... Almost like there is something loose. I've had the driver out and checked it for signs of damage all over but can see nothing. I have only had this cab a month or two, as I brought it as a replacement for my other GS112 that completely failed (the speaker just stopped and it read open circuit on a pair of multimeters). That one has been sent away for repair, but now this one is buggered too! Driving the cab was my LMII and my Stingray. Nothing else. Cables are all high quality. The amps controls were set to Gain: 2oclock Low: 1 oclock Low Mid: 2 oclock Mid High: 1 oclock High: 2 oclock VLE off VPF: 10 oclock Master: 12 oclock And my Stingray slightly boosted on the treble and bass and cut slightly on the mid (literaly all I do is take them just ouf of the notch and thats how I like it) So I can't really see that I had been driving the cab too hard. I just don't know what to do! Anyone have any thoughts? I'm seriously screwed for cash - my entire music fund stands at £30 at the moment... Cheers

[quote name='arthurhenry' post='748297' date='Feb 17 2010, 12:23 PM']Do you see notes as colours? I've spoken to other musicians who do and some who don't have a clue what I'm on about! For me: E is yellow F Grey F# Sandy G Green G# Greeny turquoise A Browny red A# Dark grey B Blue C Green C# Bluey turquoise D Red D# ?[/quote] That is the most amazing thing I have ever heard! What happens with D# then?