jensenmann

I´d love to trade my flyer with your MkII Midi nice collection, congrats!

or an SVT 8x10

I´d always check microphonics when swapping tubes. Especially when the amp is exposed to vibrations like being placed on cabs. Put the new tube in it´s place, give the amp a minute to warm up and carefully knock with the rear of a screwdriver on the bulb. Compare what you hear from different tubes and use the one with the lowest noise. Microphonic tubes will smear the sound in a very unpleasant way.

[quote name='spiritchaser' post='1208992' date='Apr 23 2011, 10:29 AM']Great decision to have it converted to a fretted, Al! How does it alter the sound? I guess it now kills every speaker around? What about its weight now - still comfortable to play? I'm asking since I've been pondering on having mine fretted, too, but being afraid of the weight the Wal will gain by that. It's still my heaviest bass ... Anyway - enjoy your beauty! Oliver[/quote] Oliver, good to see that you still enjoy it.

Waynepunkdude, what piece is the second Drawmer below the 1960? Is it the old version of the 1960 or something else? Here´s some guts from the place I´m working at. The controlroom pictures were taken when the installation was not completed, though. There´s quite some more stuff added in the meantime.

[quote name='jogi' post='1126151' date='Feb 13 2011, 06:26 PM']In its current form this may not be the most beautiful of Wals - but it´s mine and has a bit of a story to go with it... Bought it in 2000 along with a single pickup fretless MK I (I think it´s the one in the back row [url="http://basschat.co.uk/uploads/monthly_08_2008/post-45-1217955384_thumb.jpg"]here[/url] at the Wall of Wals). I left the fretted MK I on stage at an outdoor gig in May 2001, at an enclosed area, guarded by security with dogs. And - you guessed it - it was gone the next day. Some other gear had been stolen, too, but this one really hurt the most. I always kept an eye open in case it might turn up again, so imagine my surprise when I found a video of the bass on a German forum last summer. I wasn´t 100% sure, but after I had seen a link to the ebay auction where it had been sold with BIN accidentally instead of auctioning it off I knew this was my Wal! Turned out it had never been far from where it had been stolen - just a couple of miles from here... Now it´s back with me and I´m having it refinished - or rather finished, as it had been sanded, spray-painted blue, then sanded again, so it came back to me as bare wood... More pics here: [url="https://picasaweb.google.com/112925724378685434489/WalW2328#"]Wal W2328[/url] By the way, all the little screws for the back cover have gone and the neck bolts have been damaged from not using proper tools. Being non-metric they are impossible to come by over here - would those be available from a hardware store in the UK or are these extra-special???[/quote] try this: [url="http://www.walbasses.co.uk/"]http://www.walbasses.co.uk/[/url] I had the same problem with some imperial-sized screws for my mixing console, a 1980 Amek M2500. After having visited every hardwareshop in my area I found out that I was living two streets away from a wholesale dealer for these screws..... I paid 75€ for 100 screws of which I needed three. Hopefully this won´t happen to you. Better you contact walbasses first. good to see that your darling found her way back to you :-)

Have you tried to put your ear very near to the cab and locate the source of distortion? Maybe your problem can be cured with little mechanic work. I´ve expierience similar things in the post which turned out in one case that the speaker grille was resonating and in another case the reflex port was too small with sharp edges and hence created this type of "distortion" (think flute).

[quote name='joegarcia' post='1091049' date='Jan 16 2011, 03:05 AM']Also, does anyone know if the first SVT's had black or silver grilles? Mine has a black grille and it doesn't look right. Sure I've seen others from that period with black ones but could be wrong. Mate of mine has given me a 70's silver one to stick on but not sure which is right.[/quote] Mine is said to be from 70 and came with a silver grille. Silver fits to my cab dated the same year with original CTS/horseshoe speakers. This seems to be a good sign that silver cloth has been used at these models. I´ve seen black grilles from older than late 70s blackface series amps only. But I could be wrong with that.

For gigging I´m using a TC electronic SCF pedal, which I truly like. I have some more chorus pedals but they are sitting in the corner waiting for better days. Mostly I don´t like them because they cut off or muddy the lowend.

I went the other route from an SM400S (which I liked more than my previous SM400 non-S because of the additional treble control) to a Trace SMX600. If you are used to how a Trace cuts through in your band then you will be disappointed from the SWR. OTOS I´d alway prefer the SM400S for recording. It´s go the perfect tone to exactly fit in a mix, but on stage it doesn´t cut through well. The Trace in my book doesn´t sound nice but gives you accurate control, even when two distorted guitars try to destroy your ears.

[quote name='Shockwave' post='934790' date='Aug 24 2010, 02:10 PM']I think i now have the best rig. End thread. [/quote] Nope, here´s the end of thread: [attachment=57626:Ampeg.jpg] [attachment=57627:04082010118.jpg]

[quote name='spiritchaser' post='886498' date='Jul 5 2010, 05:31 PM']The big 1200 watts rig driven by my Wal (see profile for details):[/quote] Wow, you´ve got another Midibass. This one would fit really nice to my Wenge 5string

Too bad that I had to let my ´64 Thunderbird IV go for financial reasons in the 90s. It was custom coloured in metallic green and looked so glamrock. The only bass which I seriously regret having it sold. In combination with my silverface SVT + 8x10 cab every guitarplar turned pale about the output. The only other basses that could cut through in a similar manner were WAL and Precision basses.

Yuk, stay away from this one. I´d better use no compression than an Alesis. Get a dbx160 A (or X or XT) and you´re done. You can´t dial in any bad sounding settings (in opposite to a Distressor or 1176) because it´s an automatic comp. Best bang for the buck on pro level. If you want to sink serious money into a compressor get any LA2A, LA3A, LA4, 1176 or Distressor. But mind that more knobs mean more control mean more can be dialed in wrong.

I did tour for years with a lot of Raggae bands. It was always the bassplayer who caught the most women on a tour. Unfortunately I was the soundengineer....

Yummy, SM400.... I owned one for years. Great sounding amp for recording miked cabs. On stage I had trouble to cut through, though.

[quote name='AlanP2008' post='731849' date='Feb 1 2010, 04:56 PM']Unless I'm doing this wrong (and I'll admit that it has been a long time since I did this stuff professionally)... my back-of-a-fag-packet calculation of the -3dB point for a 10k resistor (R4) and a 0.22uF capacitor (C1) is about 75Hz... that's where the gain of the op-amp will start to roll off towards unity.... Not low enough I would think... 1uF would be about the smallest you would want - 0.22 is way too small...[/quote] The source sees a voltage divider formed by C3 and R5. IC is connected between these two with 10TOhm input resistance, virtually infinity which has no influence on the -3dB frequency. It´s an noninverting topology, R4 only references the - input to virtual ground= half V+ since the circuit runs from single rail. R4 has nothing to do with the input impedance hence no influence on -3dB point.

Finally I´d recommend a booster pedal, too. Snipping wires in your amp is not funny unless you´re expierienced in DIY-electronic. C1 is theoretically ok. I´d stay with a film cap for sound (less THD than electrolytics) reason but I´d make it as big as possible. Limit is money and space on the PCB. It´d probably be a Wima MKS-2 1uF/63V.

drop me a pm with the text you need to get translated.

[quote name='3V17C' post='731071' date='Jan 31 2010, 09:54 PM']agreed... the bit that stood out to me was how worn the neck joint/heel is... the bottom of the heel is seriously chipped worn and thats not a place that naturally would pick up alot of dings. aside from that (and the new frets) it does look pretty tasty though! incidently, my reliced jazz has uber rusty pickups and they work fine and dandy!! peace c[/quote] That looks ok to me. My bass has a lot of the same dongs as this one - even many more. Personally I´d only care for the sound and playability. If that´s great I would not care about any collector standards. But that´s me. Instruments need to get played a lot to sound good, that´s why these frets make me suspicious.

When you buy parts make sure that they fit on your PCB. I´d go for an OPA134 instead of TL071. Less noise, less distortion and cleaner sound, though it has double supply current. There´s a bandwidth limitation cap in the circuit missing. Put a 10pF NPO/C0G ceramic cap across the pot. This should be enough (roughly guessing)

You should use it with another cab. Here´s my expierience: I have a vintage SVT rig of which the head was acting up one day before a gig. I took my Trace 600SMX to the show as spare and had to use it. But I could get neither sound nor volume out of my 8x10". I thought there´s something wrong with the Trace, too, but the next day it worked perfectly with my Boogie 2x10" cabs and still goes strong up to today (7 years in between).