
bass_ferret
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Everything posted by bass_ferret
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[quote name='bassmansky' post='244036' date='Jul 20 2008, 08:43 PM']all seems a bit complicated!so bassists who have been using 15's and 10's together for years have been waisting their time and money and belting out a c**p sound?must get on to the manager of my local music store who tryed to flog me a 1x15 to go with my 4x10 cab then.[/quote] Probably. Since when have managers of music stores been interested in bass sound; they normally try and sell a stack of mixed cabs cos thats what they have got as most shops only carry 1 of high cost stock. From my own experince I had a 15/2x10 stack for as long as it took the second 2x10 that I ordered when I used the stack for the first time and it sounded sh*t, to arrive at the shop. Its ironic that Ashdown ABM range has a rep for being wooley sounding, if they are mixing ABM cabs I'm not surprised.
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[quote name='alexclaber' post='243955' date='Jul 20 2008, 05:59 PM']I'm sorry but you obviously don't understand what I'm saying. The human ear is not at all sensitive to absolute phase response - it is completely immaterial. Frequency response is a vector with both magnitude and phase. When summing output it has to be done as a vector calculation with complex numbers, resulting in a total magnitude and phase response (though you can ignore the resulting phase, magnitude is all that matters). If this sum results in a more appealing response to your ears whilst still achieving a reasonable gain in sensitivity through increased radiation impedance then I don't believe it matters in the slightest how you've mixed your speaker/cab sizes/designs etc. Alex[/quote] I think I do understand - although its been difficult to get chapter and verse on this from the experts, Bill likes sweeping statements like oil and water dont mix Take the example I have used [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=22504&st=0&start=0"]here[/url] and the ABM cabs. ABM 115 Frequency Response 37Hz - 2kHz Sensitivity 98dB 1W@1m ABM 210T Frequency Response 75Hz - 20kHz Sensitivity 102dB 1W @ 1m Note the frequency response is not qualified and it rarely is. By qualification I mean what the variation is over the frequency range, usually expressed like +- 3dB, meaning the frequency response falls within a 6 dB range. Assuming +- 3dB, adding another cab adds 3dB so ignoring the difference in sensitivity, assuming the response is flat, and no phase cancellation, really simplifying the matter, adding the responses together would have a frequency response of 75Hz to 2kHz at +-3dB, 37Hz to 20kHz at +-6dB. Now if the phase of the cabs also changes at different frequencies, for those frequencies that are out of phase, rather than adding the responses they are subtracted and if the phase difference is 180 degrees then the cabs will cancel each others output and produce nothing for those frequencies. Its not the absolute phase but the cancellation of out of phase output that makes the results unpredictable. In the example above the fact that the 210 has a 4dB advantage in sensitivity also means that 75Hz to 2kHz will be 7dB louder than 37 to 75Hz.
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About 5 grand!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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OK I stand corrected, but I think Bill may have a stronger view on this. [quote name='alexclaber' post='243917' date='Jul 20 2008, 05:02 PM']It is feasible for the differences in frequency response, both magnitude and phase, once combined, to result in a more balanced sound when using two non-matching cabs compared to using two of either model. But its not predictable and needs testing on case by case basis.[/quote] The phase response in particular is unlikely to sound better, unless of course the cabs have been designed to work together. I would expect that the improvements often ascribed to mixing cabs are far more likely to be the result of lifting the top cab closer to the ears. What I disagree with is "expert" opinion telling people they need a 1x15 and 2x10 or 4x10. It would be interesting to check this out at a bash but I never seem to get to one.
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They are both the same link thats in the wiki. Buying expensive long lasting strings is acutally better than cheap short lasting strings if the expensive strings last longer than all the cheaper strings.
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The same applies to whatever cabs are being mixed - size does not matter. Putting the same signal through different sized cabs can lead to unpredicatble results.
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No. I was using my Bass Collection and an Ibanez Musician fretless. I went to Bernies to try the EBS gear and got sucked in to ordering the basses when I got the rig
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[quote name='Wooks' post='243887' date='Jul 20 2008, 04:33 PM']Can you or anybody that has delt with retailers in the States recommend anybody and possibly add links here please?? And give price examples and whether you've been stung for any duty too!! [/quote] There is a link to at least 1 US seller on the basschat wiki.
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[quote name='bnt' post='243894' date='Jul 20 2008, 04:41 PM']Well, the 2nd cab doesn't need to be a 4x10. It can be a 1x18, as long as it's 4Ω. If I was seeking Dub, I would want the deep fundamentals, mon. Righteous.[/quote] Not unless the WT800 has a crossover. Not familiar with the amp myself.
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[quote name='bass_ferret' post='243665' date='Jul 20 2008, 09:59 AM']Dont mix cabs with different size drivers. If you need two cabs get two the same.[/quote] [quote name='ianrunci' post='243741' date='Jul 20 2008, 12:42 PM']I would say thats a personal thing, like anything else with equipment, whatever sounds poor to someone elses ears may sound great to yours.[/quote] No it is a scientific fact, ask any acoustic engineer. That people say they get a great sound despite this scientific fact - thats personal opinion.
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[quote name='Huge Hands' post='243571' date='Jul 20 2008, 12:34 AM']I've had it before with a mic'd kit, the PA is throwing out loads of bass and kick drum. On certain frequencies, the bass drum would act as a resonator and via my amp, the acoustics of the stage room and the PA, the whole stage area would resonate.[/quote] Often it is the kick that is too loud but it sounds like the bass booming when it couples. I used to get the same problem with keys but it was always the bass that gets blamed for being too loud.
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I used to have a Tmax and 2 2x10TX cabs. Nice sounding and very loud but as Kiwi said very coloured, making the basses sound the same. I had the footswitch with mine that was good for switching channels but I preferred the tube channel.
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Loads of elixir users on basschat. Try the search facility.
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There is a lot of info on strings on the basschat wiki
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Dont mix cabs with different size drivers. If you need two cabs get two the same.
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You dont need to do no ting. All yo need is connect 1 4ohm 4x10 to 1 4ohm output, and another 4ohm 4x10 to de udder 4ohm output. Job done and roll one IRIE. Never thought of 4x10's as reggae cabs.
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[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='243492' date='Jul 19 2008, 08:10 PM']And apologies to RAM for all us Status nuts hijacking his thread! Perhaps we ought to have a 'pinned' Status corner, Mods[/quote] Start your own in the basschat wiki - like I have for GB.
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[quote name='6stringbassist' post='243542' date='Jul 19 2008, 11:38 PM']In 23 years I've never broken a string, is that some sort of record ?.[/quote] You are not trying hard enough
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If its lined then its reasonably straightforward as they normally start out as fretted necks but get a luthier to do it. If its unlined then in gods name why? If you want frets sell it and buy one. Or persevere with the fretless.
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When you hit a resonant frequency like that it will also resonate at the octave just like any other harmonic. If its a room resonance then you really need a narrow band parametric or notch filter, but you can tune it out by careful cab placement - see the basschat wiki. If it is stage resonance then decoupling with something like a gramma pad will help.
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DR do strings in lots of colour coatings. Not singles though.
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[quote name='SteveO' post='243250' date='Jul 19 2008, 10:46 AM']two 4ohm cabs in series will give you an 8 ohm load. if you're handy with a soldering iron and have a small box, 3 mono jack plugs and about 10 inches of appropriate wire then you'll be able to knock up a small patch box in 10 mins that'll save messing with the insides of the cabs.[/quote] Any you think that somebody who cant work out how to connect a cab to their amp is gonna be able to do all that He has already got a 4x10 that I presume he likes the sound of - whats the point in doing anything other than getting another one rather than replacing it with a hard to find 8 ohm 8x10. If, having read all of the excellent advice on this forum, you still cant work out how to connect a head and cabs, buy a combo.
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There are a lot of online guides - a selection has been collated on finnbass but the mods removed the link I put on the wiki so you will have to go to finnbass to look at it.
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Nice intro Look at the second hand market - £600 is not a lot for a stack. Hartke and Ashdown are a bit marmite - loved and hated by many.
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Welcome to the path of true enlightenment from the dark side