bass_ferret

The problem with EQ'ing and new strings is it does not relieve the GAS

Yes I was forgetting that bass is an octave lower than written. Doh! Anyway, the issue remains that reproducing low frequencies is more difficult (the low notes on a cheap piano can be an indistinct rumble for example), and as Bill says the note we hear is made up of the fundamental and harmonics. But wanting to have a Jamerson like tone is achieved by removing the harmonics. A couple of personal observations: Lots of ERB players have a bright sound using 'hi-fi' amplification. Lots of ERB players put bands round the strings to stop the unplayed string ringing, often at the twelfth fret, meaning they can only go down to C# below bottom E anyway. The ERB is often used to play in the register of traditional basses up the dusty end, not for pumping out low C#. Surely the musical interest is not playing the same notes as the keyboard anyway - whats the point of that. I played with keys for 20 years and on the few occasions I doubled it was an octave or two up, or if he was playing up an octave or two down, rather than copying note for note.

there is no difference, rig wise, to tuning a 4 BEAD and using a 5 with low B.

No - handles for forks. Welcome.

The EBS uses neo speakers as the name suggests so it will be a lot lighter (and it comes with wheels). It also comes in 2x10, 2x12 and 1x15 configurations whilst the Eden and SWR only come in 2x10 IIRC

This has been on a few times recently - worth watching.

Sorry but you are asking the impossible. Bass gear that can faithfully reproduce a low A is f***ing expensive and human hearing at those frequencies is not very good. There is a very good reason for bottom E being the bottom E and it is because it is usually the lowest note a human voice can reproduce. And the human ear is most sensitive to the frequency range of the human voice. The question about motown probably arose because you keep banging on about low A, but James Jamerson, the motown bass player, never went below E on his Precision. Some of us may be jumping to the conclusion that you are deluded that lower = better and are therefore trying to go unnecessarily low, and lower than your budget will allow.

DOnt know how many times I have said this, but mixing speaker sizes can give unpredictable results. If you want to add a speaker to a 212, add another 212.

Or it could be a scammer impersonating the dealer. That happens with every back in the world.

Nothing wrong with your basses. I would try the obvious alternatives to the Redhead, the Eden Metro and EBS NeoGorm.

same as I said on the other thread you started on this subject - basschat wiki

Well I assumed he was using the bottom 4 strings from a 5 string set.

[quote name='Galilee' post='208806' date='May 29 2008, 01:13 PM']I'd suggest trying a 5-string bass. Your strings must be flapping all over the place and that's not going to help the clarity of your output.[/quote] Why is that then?

Prices for set up vary from £25 to £75 depending on how much work is involved - frets stoning etc. If you are buying a new bass insist it is set up properly before you buy it, although if you are buying mail order they can go out in transit. Changing pickups is easy or impossible depending on your ability with a soldering iron. Strings vary from £10 to £50 for a set of 4.

I can see clearly now. Put like that yes it is f***ing expensive! 1000watts though.

[quote name='The Funk' post='208277' date='May 28 2008, 06:54 PM']I really like the sound of Epifani cabs - clean, clear but still warm. I haven't tried their 2x12 and I'm not sure if anyone on these boards actually owns one.[/quote] davebass5 is selling one IIRC.

[quote name='The Funk' post='208238' date='May 28 2008, 05:50 PM']A bit expensive though, isn't it? If you had a Bergantino 12" and a separate power amp it'd be a lot less.[/quote]Yes it is expensive but then the best usually is. I guess he could get some Behringer gear for a lot less.

[quote name='hughcanbefound' post='207956' date='May 28 2008, 12:16 PM']You can achieve the same results as passive with an active rig as long as you set all the knobs to a certain setting? Is that right?[/quote] Thats what I said. Lots of active basses dont have a passive switch so setting the tone controls to the mid point is supposed to be flat. The Active/Passive switch is only there for when the battery goes flat mid set rather than offering an alternative sound, although some older basses had passive tone controls as well.

Its not unusual. Lots of 4x15 cabs were made in the 60's and 70's. Thin stringers used 4x12's, bass players used 4x15's.

Take the shape of the guitar, cut away above and below the neck for better access, make the top horn longer so the instrument balances on a strap and hey-presto you have a Fender body shape copied by millions. The reason being is that it is by far the best ergonomic shape for a bass body and Gibson basses that have not used that shape all have terrible balance because the top strap button it too close to the end strap button. Its like having 4 wheels on a car.

Why not buy a bass thats fender-ish shaped? My GB's play and sound better than any fender I have played. When you buy a Fender you are paying a lot just for that name on the headstock.

dont get hung up on active/passive. Active basses are supposed to sound the same a passive with all the eq flat, there is usually a click on the knob for this, but I doubt if many actually are. But if you find the active confusing - dont use it and leave everything flat.

Look at the basschat wiki

The Ox.

Give Denmark St a miss and go to [url="http://www.thebassgallery.com/"]The Gallery[/url]