dyerseve

I think that would potentially complicate things as again you would need to clearly define all of the parameters of those results and the testing conditions they were performed under. RMS is already a standard measure for amp output so I think it would be better to tweak the existing std so all manufacturers report their amps outputs under the same parameters. Especially helpful would be to show the amps output and how it varied into differing loads as obviously a Class A amp will perform very differently to a Class D and so on and so on. I think it would also help if the general amp buying public were given more info on matching amps to cabs and how reduced impedance impacted the amps output, how speaker sensitivity factors into SPL but also how it relates to watts required etc etc. I am no expert on it but from my hobby fiddling with HiFi I know enough to know that a lot of people know very little about it and can't help but think that would potentially also apply in the amp and cab buying public as well. Hopefully I am wrong though.

It doesn't matter. Because it's not in the amps specification. People, especially nowadays with so much online retail, will often buy site unseen and will bass their purchases on specification provided by the manufacturer. If this spec is not accurate then they have every right to feel agreaved. Subjectivity has no place in specifications.

I remember a similar thing in Australia when I did my work experience at an electrical retailers - they advertised their hifis with a ridiculously high PMPO(Peak Music Power Output) figure - completely meaningless!!! I believe RMS power output figures are perfectly accurate and consistent as long as they are specified within the context of load (ohms) and distortion figures at said load(THD % - Total Harmonic Distortion)

Yes that's right. Well all the Warwicks I have and have had the necks look just fine to me. If it ever does get grimey you can just give it a light rub down with fine wire wool and then re finish. A quick and easy job to do.

Im sure he doesnt - I dont suppose you could ask him though - would be interesting to find out.

lovely Thumb. Is that a custom order or is it a GPS?

or use warwick wax. i know that this is only typically applied to the Warwick bass bodies to "feed" the wood but Warwick also use it to finish the necks - they apply it melted and then rub it in and then rub off an excess afterwards. leaves a nice protective finish that is lovely and smooth.

Lovely instrument but im really not keen on the huge back plate. I understand its that size because it has been hollowed out from the back but I dont understand why Jens does slice the body in half, hollow it out and then glue the two pieces back together - surely this would look so much neater and more aesthetically pleasing?

Yes you are absolutely ok to do this. You could help the solder adhere to the pins if you rough them up a little using a metal nail file or similar - no need to go mad just a light scouring to give the solder a key to stick to. Remember to apply flux to the pin over the area you have scoured before soldering. Will also help if you tin the end of the cable and the pin before making the joint. Good luck

And thankfully that's why only 4 were made, for the world had already suffered enough...