Quilly

Have Trace Elliot stopped manufacturing 4 * 10s , 1*15s etc altogether. Do they manufacture anything in the UK anymore. If not that's a real shame.

At the risk of starting a never ending chain of opinions I will ask a question (that’s probably been asked and answered before many times) . I have a valve head that only has 8 and 16ohm outputs. Will I damage it by using a 4ohm load on the 8 ohm tap. The concensus seems to suggest a 1/2. - 2x mismatch is ok with valve amps actually preferring the 1/2 option Over the 2x option. I really love the sound that m getting from the head and I don’t want to fry it.

Seriously ...get an old valve guitar head. Get it working, I think you can mod the input stage to optimize for bass.

I bought one of these with a totally open mind . The components were of a high standard and it played great and sounded really tight and loud for a passive bass. But as for the assembly quality , yikes , it was a bit of a mess...I not sure what kind of sound wood they use but I could dent it with a fingernail, I can only imagine what would happen if it was dropped 😮. The tuning heads were misaligned in the holes so the shaft of the post was gouging against wood (not ideal) . I could push the pearl did markers further into the holes designed for them. Anyway I sold it on pretty quickly. That said it played and sounded fine and was a comfortable bass. It felt a bit ‘home made’ to me (and not in a good way )

Carslbro top 50 sounding sweet (and dirty) through my barefaced two10 as bass amp.

He might be able to add a 4ohm tap for you . Apparently it can be done . I agree a good service is definitely required . The capacitors could be shot also. God only knows what condition the valves are in. You’re looking at a nice chunk of money but it’s worth the imo.

Im using a 4 ohm cab on my 8 ohm valve head and it hasn’t caught fire yet . Apparently a 100% mismatch is ‘ok’ for tube amps.

Just back from a revalve and service ...I’m so pleased with it . Even though it’s a guitar head it’s great with bass . Plenty of ‘heft’ as they say . 50w Carslbro Top. Talk about dirty tones as well 😃😃

I think that's the general consensus (i.e. 25-50 years) ....

Im trying to put a date on my AH500-7 , I read somewhere that its the last 2 digits?

Does anyone know the classification of 'Vintage' amp? Is it 25 years old? or is its something arbitrary.

The AH-500 I bought was serviced by X-music in Dublin...I'm not exactly what service would be required on a solid state head except to change those MOSFETs

I've heard of people changing the MOSFET transistors etc.

There are probably more efficient heads out there today but I’m dubious as to their fixability or serviceability.

There’s something about those MOSFET transistors at the back end that really moves air around the lower frequencies. I’ve owned 500w class D amps before ...but the AH500 is a different beast altogether.

I use mine with a lightweight barefaced 2x10 and it sounds fantastic and it’s a nice tidy rig . I think it could blow the cabinet if I maxed out the head but I’ve never needed to go beyond 12 O’Clock

I bought an AH500-7 about a year ago and, to be honest it’s a little bit overkill for my needs but it sounds fantastic, especially wity my sandberg . I’m a valve amp fanatic but this amp is a lovely contrast tonally. It’s heavy but not awkward to carry. I like the idea that’s a genuinely British made amp.

It’s just loud enough for a small gig but a decent efficient cab is critical.

Owned a little bastard about 5 years ago and stupidly sold it on. Big time sellers remorse .

Its actually a reissue 'Evo' model from late 1990s (I think). British made though.

I recently purchased a 50W Carsbro 50-Top guitar head for a bag of beans lately. Looks looks like a decent enough head but the power valves were knackered so I've sent it off for a r-re-valve and check up. I plan to just play around with it but I've no Idea what to expect through a bass cab, I plan on using a barefaced two10. I reckon it'll be sensitive enough to get a respectable level of volume with it. Just wondering if anyone else has tried paring a valve guitar head with a bass cab? What did it sound like? I'm expecting one hell of a dirty racket.

I read up on the Eastwood bass and the dot markers are where they would be on a fretted bass (ie not on the fret lines ) this isn’t ideal at all. (Would be better off with no dot markers)

Ha, my luthier phoned me today and told me my bass was ready !