tom skool
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Everything posted by tom skool
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Your Top 10 Favorite (not best) Bass Players
tom skool replied to Chiliwailer's topic in General Discussion
Mike watt (firehose, minutemen&laterly the stooges. Colin greenwood (radiohead) John paul jones, where it all started for me. Kim deal. Norman watt roy. +1 for mike howlet, love his lines on gongs 'you' album -
We have been string break free for ......days.
tom skool replied to Dom in Dorset's topic in General Discussion
I used to often break the E and A strings which I put down to bad technique and my amp not being loud enough. I finally found somewhere I could buy single strings as I was hating having to buy whole sets to replace 1 string (and acquired a large collection of D and G strings) and I've not broken one since! -
Why does JAZZ seem to be so widely disliked?
tom skool replied to xilddx's topic in General Discussion
[font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]I have a lot of respect for jazz and I feel I should love it. Whenever I read or hear about it I think that sounds amazing, but then I listen to it! I do love the drumming but often the notes played just make me wince! I was going to write jazz off but then I discovered 'acoustic ladyland' who are awesome!![/font] -
[font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Did he just play the bass upside down as in that photo?!! Or did he restring it left handed I wonder[/font]
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Thanks. Yeah splitting the signal would work. Is there a simple way of doing this that avoids lots of boxes and cables? Otherwise I may look at the mxr bass fuzz delux as it has separate clean and fuzz levels( I find the usual blend tricky to volume match) Are there any other pedals that have this?
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This pedal enables me to do just what I want it to, which is to leave my clean/dry signal alone but then add a bit of fuzz when I want it (usually when the guitarist is soloing). great!... well almost. I've noticed that turning the pedal on takes the top end freqs off the clean signal which I then have to compensate for by making the fuzz more trebly (and waspy in a tinny!) I find this a tad annoying. Has anyone else noticed this? I don't suppose theres any way round it other than getting a different pedal.
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I've thought about doing it also, to fill things out while our guitarist is soloing. I've done it at home using my arion tuner which has two outs. One of the outs mutes when you stomp on it so I plug that one into my guitar amp (the other to bass amp)and then I can turn it on and off. I think I thought about doing it after seeing motorhead. During the solos I was convinced they must have a hidden second guitarist. Then in between songs I heard Lemmy hit a few notes and I realized it was just all him! I just use a bass big muff pi for now though
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Recommended spare parts suppliers + guides/diagrams
tom skool replied to Hamster's topic in Repairs and Technical
[url="http://www.oilcitypickups.co.uk"]www.oilcitypickups.co.uk[/url] Again he doesn't advertise bass pickups (at present) but will custom wind what you want. I've just got my beloved wizard neck pup rewound for very reasonable money after it got broken. I mentioned i had a gig and even though he said he was busy it was back with me in two days! A top bloke and excellent customer service. -
no, the other one. On this diagram it would be the lowest lug on the bridge vol over to the right hand side lug of the tone as shown.
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its basicly this but instead of the cap going from the 1st lug to the pot body it goes to the 3rd lug of the bridge pot
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Any ideas why the cap on my columbus j bass goes inbetween the 1st lug(going clockwise)of the tone pot to the 3rd of the bridge vol pot? The rest of the wiring is standard according to the diagrams I've found and cant find any diagrams where its done this way. Does it make any difference? If so what? its a .047 cap and the pots are 500k. Also if A is log and B is linear. what is D?? my tone pot says D500k! cheers tom
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fret 16 on the A string along with fret 15 on the D string then fret 9 on A and 11 on D then 13 on A and 11 on D then 11 on A and 10 on D thats what i play anyway. hope that makes sense, my theory is obviously quite bad and find writing tab extremely tedious!
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i wonder if anyone could help me decide which interface to get. Basically I want to be able to record 2 separate audio tracks simultaneously I'm using cubase (vst!) on windows xp with 2.4 GHz and 3GB ram I've got a minimal budget and I'm currently looking on ebay at either the alesis io2 (or the io2express, i cant see a difference?) Or the tascam us-122 or 144. The 144 says its 4in and out, does that mean i could record 4 separate tracks simultaneously? It feels like a stupid question but it still only has 2 xlr and 2 jack sockets the same as the 122. Any thoughts on which might give me the least grief with such things as driver issues or latency. I dont really care about latency in monitoring as i'm usually sat right next to my amp! But i'm a bit tired of having to try and move a part back in time with the drums(midi) only to then conclude perhaps i didn't play it all in time anyway! thanks
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Can i have the DS charger please?
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what finish for a maple fingerboard?
tom skool replied to tom skool's topic in Repairs and Technical
yeah oil requires a lot less skill and equipment. Plus i'm going to have the frets on to avoid getting finish in the slots so if i needed to do any sanding between coats it would be a right pain in the eye. Iknow i'd still need to burnish the oil between coats too but thats not so bad. The tru oil seems like the stuff for me. Anyone tried any other oils? how about danish oil? it has shellac in it but might colour the wood to much maybe. I only ask coz i can get that at a local diy store -
what finish for a maple fingerboard?
tom skool replied to tom skool's topic in Repairs and Technical
the oil would seal it though wouldn't it? I've left the lacquer on the rest of the neck, it just the finger board i need to re finish. -
I'm in the procees of doing a refret on my columbus jazz and i would like to know what kind of finish to put back on it. I like th idea of using an oil and I know lots of people use tung oil on rosewood finger boards but is it ok for maple. I'd rather not go down the polyurathane/laquer route if i can. Do i need worry about certain oils/waxes gumming up the strings?
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[quote name='oldslapper' post='923517' date='Aug 13 2010, 09:28 AM']1x Fostex class 2 transformer 12v 600mA model AD-12A 1x Fostex switching adaptor 12v 1300mA nodel AD12-1300 Both unused, bought but wrong type for my use. free (or donation to basschat) to a good, bad or ugly home.[/quote] I could really do with a replacement AD-12A if its still available
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I'm not wanting to do it solely fo less power, i find the volume knob fulfills that job just fine. I just wondered if i could save myseilf from having to replace all 8 valves when just one has blown. But maybe with the amount of work they do perhps that day is along way off. I dont like the thought of changing the impediance either, is there any way of checking what the output needs to see if i did take a couple out, ie with a meter reader? I know the sensible option would be to just get a smaller amp. i Previously had a 50watt valve head. Ive gone from too small to too big, its ridiculous!
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I have just come into owning a marshall vba 400 which i absolutely love. What i dont love about it though is the thought of having to replace all 8 of the 6550 power valves when they go as its gonna cost a bit. I have heard of people (mainly guitarists wanting to drive there amp more)removing a couple of poweramp valves and i was wondering i f could do the same. I dont need any where near 400watts (i have'nt had it past 2 on the volume!) and then i would have some matched spare valves for when the time came. Is this a good idea or not? Would it do the amp any harm running it this way?
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I've got an 300watt ABM 1x15 combo and i find i'm often running out of headroom playing in a band with one other guitar. My friend however has a 200watt mag 4x10 combo and that comfrtably competes with 2 guitars in his band. I've used it too and it has much more power. Its all down to surface area of speakers, and a 4x10 has nearly twice as much as a 1x15. If you go for a 2x10 combo you will need the extension cab. Personally i would go head& cab route with a small 4x10 as the 4x10 would be not much bigger than the combo but lighter, then you just got the head which is easy. Oh and go for the ABM if you can they have the valve preamp and sound much nicer
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an 8ohm out and a 16ohm out. how to add an xtra cab?
tom skool replied to tom skool's topic in Amps and Cabs
ok not sure if i want to risk putting a 4ohm load into an 8ohm out. Does any one else know if this is ok on valve amp (its a selmer t& And why does running cabs in series sometimes not work so well? -
an 8ohm out and a 16ohm out. how to add an xtra cab?
tom skool replied to tom skool's topic in Amps and Cabs
[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='757058' date='Feb 25 2010, 01:48 PM']The taps on a valve amp represent the maximum load that should be used with them, the opposite of SS amps. You can daisy chain cabs no problem, just make sure both cabs have the same impedance. A pair of 8 ohm cabs daisy chained is 4 ohms, so run them off the 8 ohm tap. The 16 ohm tap is pretty much of no value, as 16 ohm and higher cabs are no longer to be found.[/quote] Ah yes i daisy chaining them would work, although both cabs i have access to atm have only got a lead and a jack plug to attach to. I would need a cab with two sockets on. I do have a splitter box ( wired for either series or paralell) Could i use that somehow? have both cabs plug into the box and then run a lead from the box to the amp?