T-Bay

F**k music can be swearing (I remember seeing a band called North meets South at Derby Uni in the early 90s) but if F**k music could be offensive then surely J**z should be pulled by the filter.

.025 and .135 phosphor bronze acoustic strings, Warwick make full length, brand new in packet. Spares from a six string set as I couldn’t find a four string set and these were a decent price. If they are of any use to anyone give me a shout.

Forgot got say that I use u pol filler primer, it is a dull yellow colour. It takes a while longer than normal primer to go off. Somewhere around an hour or so. I always spray a bit of scrap at the same time so I test when it’s gone off as I have lost count of the times I have thought it’s gone off only to find it’s just a skin which I put a finger print in.

Filler primer is worth a go, it hides a multitude of sins as my efforts on cars have proved over the Years!

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. Sounds like they are a similar beast which is good.

Not wanting to hi jack, but how did you find the Warwick’s compared to the rotos? I have always used rotos on my Thunderbird but have a set of the Warwick’s on their way so am interested how they compare. Similar to the SG it’s a very dark sound, which I like and found the rotos suit it really well but just don’t last.

Have you thought about using car paint? The quality of decent car paint is superb compared to most off the shelf aerosols and a decent paint factors can mix it up to order in any one of about a million colours. My local one (Jawel) charges about £10 for an aerosol which easily do a guitar body, primer and lacquer are about £6 a tin off the shelf. If you want any specials like metal flake that usually adds a couple of quid.

I joined the two,pickup cavities on my Thunderbird build by drilling from both ends, 200mm long drill bit the angle meant that it was never a goer in one hit. I drew a pencil line between the two and followed that as far as possible. It worked perfectly but I did expect to have to mess around a bit. It’s not a way I would choose to do it though given an option. The ground wire hole was more nerve wracking as I worried that if I messed up there was small risk of it breaking out the back. As it was that went perfectly as well. Planning and measuring everything about ten times helped.

On almost all of mine the E is longer than the A and D strings, which is why I do it that way. I would rather have a bit of adjustment either way than put all the eggs in one basket as it were.

I cannot begin to imagine how you came across this.

Our band ranges from 46 to 30 yrs old, our kids range from not born yet to 11, we still find time to practice and gig but it does help working at the same place. As for kit, I have 6 basses at the moment and am building another. They all serve a purpose but I have decided that it’s one in one out at the moment but mostly because of space as having a massive clearout due to impending extension where some of the house will be unusable for a while.

I will, hoping I can make it but will depend on the gig the day before and a possible extra one that weekend as well.

I am still not sure if I can make it, do t think by build will be finished by then either but I will try.

Thanks, I have been in contact.

Make sure the overall length from saddles to nut remains the same. If you set the A and D to the middle of the travel and work from that length it will give a bit of leeway for any adjustments you may need.

I had the pleasure of seeing a guy (ex jaguar) redo the veneer on my old Dolomite dash a few years ago. It was pure art watching him at work. As with all the best craftsmen he made it look incredibly easy, even the sections around the clocks. I had a go myself and tried to do the air vent holes (double curvature obviously), after three or four wasted sheets I was back at Derek’s door getting it done properly. On a flattish surface it’s a joy to do, once you start to get that double curve it’s the work of the devil and if you look closely at most veneered stuff it’s either a single curve, or you can see the cuts and tucks when you really look. I have seen a couple of dashboards painted to look like veneer that were impressive, and one that had a transfer applied (water dip process) that was plain amazing, ot sure how that would work on a bass though.

I just have a weakness for certain basses, seen another on here at the moment, I don’t need, I have a genuine one of the bass it’s copying but still fancy getting it. Presently resisting and the one in one out is holding (and I hate selling stuff at the best of times).

Best way I think, for both parties involved. We went to a friends wedding a few years ago where the brides mother had pretty much insisted on an obscure Scottish folk band she loved. Sadly no one apart from the brides mother and her friend liked them. I tried to stay and watch for a while feeling sorry for the band but they were very ‘niche’ and I gave up. In the end there were two people in the bar loving it and 150 people outside on the lawn bored stiff. The band looked very deflated when they loaded out at the end of the night.

That will take some beating.

Sounds like the 15 is borked but still a good deal at present price.

Any machine shop could do them in a few minutes if you mark them up properly. A donation to the tea and biscuits fund is usually sufficient. But it’s no problem to do it, as long as you aren’t in a rush, so if you are stuck just let me know and I can do it for you.

Smooth hound, great system and even better service.