prowla

So, I added the couple of extra tuners. There's one more thing I need to sort before I can put strings on it - the string holes in the bass bridge I'm using are too wide, so I need a stopbar or something to catch the ball-ends.

Well South of £200. I paid £150 for one a couple of years back and I believe I over-paid; however, the resulting bass turned out to be excellent, so I think I got a good one!

I know - it shouldn't be allowed! I did once play someone's Fender Mustang bass and it was rather nice.

A selection of Statii...

Does it need a 4-wire cable? <= Sorry, wrong thread!

Yup... ...plus I also like Rickenbackers! 🙂

Mind you, I think of all Squiers as sub-£100 instruments (shock/horror to the JV etc. fans!).

Not all Rics have the treble cap (eg. the one I linked above). Some of the current 4003 models have it switchable. For a mono jack, the two hot wires run to the tip. With the switch removed I guess you'd connect the pickups hot wires and the tone caps to the Vol centre tabs, rather than floating.

I'd buy one for under £100.

What are the series 220k resistors for?

I'd look at the Rickenbacker schematics and lose the switch. http://www.rickenbacker.com/pdfs/19501.pdf (Note that Ric wire the output to the top of the pot and the input to the centre/wiper; this reduces the interplay between the pickups respective controls.)

Dunno if it's still about, but there was a Shergold bass base plate (no saddles) on ebay a while back; it's always worth a check anyway...

Well, it appears I just might be...

I have wondered if the speakers in these could be replaced by full-range ones; however, the size of the cabinet is small too and physics would come into play.

If you haven't got Rickenbacker and you're into Rush, then there's sort-of an answer there. I've got a couple of Warwick Corvette 5-strings (the bolt-on neck versions); they are really good, so a more up-market thru-neck one should be great. (Of course, the Spector folks would "tut" loudly at you.) I played a couple of Sandbergs on their stand at the Brum show and they were rather nice, if you want a Fender-a-like... It would even be possible to get a Ric and a Warwick with your budget... As corollary (though they're not for sale), any of the right four of these Rics plus all but one of these 5-strings would be. So, there's stuff out there if you keep your eyes open and are patient.

Yep - a regular...

It's the click-bait bloke again... ...puts up awful/controversial items to catch your attention.

Not sure if we've had this one before (if we have, I must've successfully expunged it from my memory). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jon-Letts-Single-Cut-6-String-Bass-Guitar/223996798890

Thanks - this was just my 1st go, so haven't delved into the manual yet. (Real men don't read manuals and all that...) I was hoping there's be a config option to set the button function - that's good! Yes, re. tone; I previously made an on/off tone switch pedal with just a passive tone control, which might find its way back. I was playing my Rickenbacker, so winding both tones down is too much of a faff; plus the FI is only on one channel of my split signal, so it'd affect the other one too. Hmmmm, the term "data" may mean something different to different folks; I think you are saying that it is the value of the selected parameter's setting? I know I'm being a bit pedantic, but I've just done a text search for "data" in the FI User Guide v3.03 and it's not clear at all what it does: the manual refers to "data loss", a "database", MIDI "SysEx data", mentions that "setting the data digit to 5 will reproduce the settings as saved in the editor", and says the digit displays the "Edit Data"; I think the next iteration of the guide could maybe explain what it means in the context of the FI. ((Please treat this as constructive feedback, BTW, not a gripe at this point, as I'm just starting out with it.)) Aside from learning how they are playing you, the trick with these synth pedals is figuring out where and how their sounds will fit in with what you want to play and whether or not a given setting takes over your sound or adds to/accompanys it.

Well, I've had a go and stepped through all 99 supplied sounds; they give a good feel for what it can do. I don't know if I'd use any of the ones as-is, but they do a fine job of showcasing its capabilities. I have to say the tracking is great and it goes down to bottom E (and dropped D with my Hipshot eXtender), whereas others give up at A. It also handles the note decaying away fantastically well, as opposed to the sound breaking up as it fades below a certain level. I found myself thinking that I could do with putting a compressor in front to tidy up the input, as the input is quite sensitive and my playing is quite scrappy. I did find that it would sometimes trigger on what I thought were nifty fingering changes, so I had to be a bit more careful in my playing; I think it suits the more disciplined/trained players. Operation-wise, I found myself wishing that the program button presses would stay within the selected bank of 10 sounds, rather than stepping to the next bank after 9. The quick start manual doesn't seem to say what the 3rd digit on the numerical display is telling you; I might figure that out on my 2nd run at it. Next step will be to get the program installed on my laptop and see if I can replicate a couple of my Minitaur & Markbass SS sounds on the FI.

Some fine workmanship there... ...well worth more than double the price of a new one from the manufacturer! https://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_pb_50_sb_vintage_series.htm

Alternatively, dab a spot of glue at the start of the bare string and wrap some excess silk from the end cut-offs of the string around it. A kindof bass player's equivalent of a comb-over!

I was thinking of maybe tuning the G to G#...

This one ain't bad.

He'll do custom builds too, so form an orderly queue...