prowla

Yep - I do mess about with stuff... 🙂

...then there's my Rickenberger. and my headless doubleneck with Ric bass pickups. And finally an innocuous Ric TRC on a Fender headstock!

Well, I have SD pickups on a couple of basses... My slightly tweaked Ric. and my Red Baron faker: Coincidentally, I have a P with a Status neck; it's a bit of a Frankenstein. Also coincidentally, going back to your J, I'm trying out a J-style pickup on a Ric base for someone this weekend!

Maybe he'll get a spooksperson to reply...

Haha. I do have a habit of putting Rickenbacker pickups on things.

Cheers!

The Columbus wasn't a bad bass, but it was quite heavy. My next bass was a Rickenbacker 4001, which I've still got. Amp-wise, at some point I added a shonky unbranded 4x12 and another amp (I think it was a Maine, which was quite nice, as I recall).

A good one is probably in the £500 range.

Well, that particular one was in a bit of a state, with the neck detaching from the body and the fingerboard coming away at the headstock end. I have one of those in better nick.

My first setup was a Columbus Jazz bass copy into a Carlsbro Stingray and a WEM 2x15. I had another Stingray at some point; the one with the push-buttons for tone.

I just tweaked the neck of my MIM Precision with one of those Fender 3/16 ones with the red T-section top.

Signal wire to tip and either: a. Gnd to the other two, or b. Gnd to the sleeve (and leave the ring un-connected).

Well, it seems to work OK. I reassembled the tone pot (I'd pushed so hard that the bottom half had separated, but it was just a matter of putting it back and bending the 4 tabs back where they should be) and filed the gunk/glue/whatever off the shaft so the knob would fit. Whilst I'd got it opened I spotted that the bridge earth wasn't connected, so I soldered that on too. I plugged it in briefly to check it out and it makes sounds. That's £100 well spent...

Well, I put strings on it and it seems OK. I also put a pair of straplock buttons on it; one hole was padded out with masking tape, so I had to put matchsticks & wood glue in. I think I broke a pot too, putting a knob on with a bit too much "enthusiasm", so I'll be need to get my soldering iron out. Ho-hum... I'll try using a bit of heat to strip off the finish; I've got another guitar where someone used elbow grease to strip it and left a load of gouges there.

I acquired this bass project today; it's a MIM Precision with a Badass II bridge. The neck seems fine, the pickguard is a replacement, the tuners are maybe a bit loose, it's got no strings on it, and I'm hoping the pickups are OK. However, the body is in a bit of a sad state; it looks like it's been used as a baseball bat. The question is: is the body repairable or should I just ditch it and get another? If I go down the repair route, I guess I'll need to strip the finish... Funnily enough, only last week I thought to myself it'd be good to pick up a beater and fit a 5-string conversion bridge I have to; and then this came up...

There are a couple of people on the FB fakers group who make rather good fakers to order.

I thought of that, but the BDDI is pretty much exactly right, plus I wanted the option of two completely independent channels.

Well, one of my best pedals is my SansAmp BDDI. Some time back I decided to make my pedalboard two-output and I spent ages trying out different OD/pre pedals for the 2nd channel. I finally found the right pedal to fit in there! I had the answer all the time!

I wouldn't pay that much for a used 4003. Check the ebay listings for competed items and sort by price. Anybody who pays £1000 for a faker is a mug.

Some people value them over £500, so they're not exactly inexpensive. You can buy a real Ric for £1k.

RRP £615, damaged price £449 - TBH, I'd spend the extra £150!

opportunidade do Basil...

Looks like they slipped a decimal place there.