prowla
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Everything posted by prowla
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The issue is the incompatibility, not a fault of either product per-se, and it's down to a flaw in the MIDI standard which allows two products to be branded MIDI and not work properly together. It is unproductive when representatives of a company say they are right and therefore it's the other company's fault or the customer's problem to sort it. If either of them allowed an option to select 0-127/1-128, then the issue would be resolved. The FI is run by software (firmware), and so could be enhanced to support the capability if it was deemed worthwhile. Unfortunately, the Tech21 switcher is a sealed unit and so cannot be changed. (I am disappointed with them too, but that's not an FI customer support issue.) There is nothing in the FI documentation or support to say that switchers must support 0-127 PC encoding, and in fact it is misleading, because the table on p.51 states: Based on that, it might be logical to infer that the MIDI PC implementation is 1-128 (but that it only goes up to 99). At a minimum, I would suggest that: The manual should be updated to make it clear that the FI operates on PC 0-127 mode. The MIDI compatibility section be extended to highlight the PC issue. The requirement is mentioned in mind in general discussions about the product. Further, I would like to raise an enhancement request: Can the FI firmware please be updated to include an option for Program Change (PC) 0-127/1-128 support. Saying "it's not my problem" and recommending the purchase of another unit costing almost as much again as the FI to resolve it is not really what I would've hoped for.
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So, can you set it to 0-127/1-128 offset? I'm really disappointed with the incompatibility between the MIDI Mongoose and the FI, but I wouldn't want to get another switch controller and find it is just the same? I think the FI's usability is really compromised with its Program/Patch selection and without a usable & compact controller switch it'll be stuck with being a novelty unit rather than a Swiss Army knife.
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That's an annoying error in a "standard"! So I have two devices which display "1", but one is thinking "0". Something is interpreting binary "00000000", as "00000001". Which one is it which is displaying "1" when it is actually at "0" - do you know? Does the FI firmware have an option to choose? Is there a name for that (like "big endian" or whatever)?
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Thanks!
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Something weird... I've just plugged in a Tech21 MIDI Mongoose to the FI and the numbers are 1 out. If the MM is on 1, the FI does nothing, if the MM is on 2, the FI is on 1, etc.
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I think if you can find a few killer sounds, then stick with them. It is a device you program, though.
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sure. (prowla is a name, not a description!)
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From Hipshot... https://hipshotproducts.com/products/hb6-1-2-ultralite-bass-tuning-machine
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ebay's a good place to keep an eye on. There's also a Warwick group on Facebook.
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Pickups-wise, Warwick J-style ones do come up on occasion.
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Grrr - I dismantled it and the main headshell is directional; the keywind shaft will only go in from one end. The part of the shaft leading out to the keywind has a sleeve around it and it has a tiny metal bar (a bit like if you snap the lead on a propelling pencil) which locates into a notch on the headshell. So nope, they're not reversible.
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Well, quite different in quality, for sure; the Vox is plywood. I got it at a car boot - remember them?
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They're not dissimilar in style to the Vox Clubman I'm working on. I got it with the silver & lines overpaint and amusing gold-painted "Fender" logo; it's now (almost) stripped and ready to paint.
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I've got a set of 4R gold Schaller M4S tuners, but I want 2L+2R ones. Is anybody in the opposite situation? Alternatively, I could swap for 2L+2R Schaller BM, either gold or black. My tuners are in good used condition. (It's a stock picture.) -
I've got a set of 4 in a line (4R) Schaller M4S tuners, but I'd like to swap them to 2L + 2R. Is this something which can be done (easily)?
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Are there any bare brass bass tuners available, rather than gold finish ones?
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I've got a Hipshot chrome finish brass bridge and I'd like to strip it back to the bare brass. Has anybody done this, any advice? Presumably I would dismantle it, but could that leave the Allen grub screw threads loose?
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🙂 Someone got a factory end of line/unfinished/2nds job lot; I think he's sold all the basses now, but has some guitars. Unlike most current copies, these are true Ric 33.25" scale. I didn't see any left-hookers.
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Ugly sod, isn't it? ...but I like it!
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See - you're turning into a techie!
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Here y'go! The red/wine one is going to be a 5-string. The cream one may be a 4000, but I think it could be better with the neck pickup. The blue one is the one I'm debating putting that brass pickguard on, which will then cascade out to the other bits...
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You just might've made my mind up for me! I've been thinking about whether to put brass/gold on a blue Ric faker I've acquired this week.
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I got the MIDI Mongoose, but haven't tried it yet; I think it's either something I'll "get" or it'll be a pain in the rear doing a little dance (the "mongoose step"?) operating it.
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Is that video the same gig? I'm sure I've seen it with different music.
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Ah - Machine Head - Glover on his Rickenbacker bass.
