prowla

I skip ads or posts naming an instrument or calling it "she".

Fender has certain build standards so you know parts are interchangeable, as evidenced in a parts bass thread. They have a defined hierarchy for their products to match certain price points and quality expectations; however, the respective ranges can overlap and some lesser ones may be surprisingly good. I have a Squier Strat and a Fender USA Strat: they are both Strats, but each element of the USA one is noticeably higher quality than the Squier; I also have a MIM Strat and it falls somewhere in-between the two. A lot of other companies businesses are based on copying and/or replacing Fender original designs/parts; again they place their products at certain price points based on functionality and quality. Fender is the industry leader, others follow. Many products are deemed to be "better than a Fender", but the fact they feel the need to mention "Fender" tells the story. If you buy a Fender you have a pretty good idea of what you can expect to receive. If you buy another brand (I have Tokai, Levinson Blade, and parts Strats) you may or may not get something suitable "for the price", but it'll always be compared to the respective Fender in some way.

The main problem with this is the tuners stick out beyond the strap buttons.

It doesn't say it's Graphite.

I was commenting on your avatar! 🙂

That's a likely story!

I would buy a used Fender - £549 will get you a decent one.

I've put together/swapped around miscellaneous Precision/Jazz parts and have never had an issue. (There was one where the holes didn't align, so I had to re-drill.) Warmoth body with Status Graphite neck, Squier body with Mighty Mite Neck. The same body with a Fender MIM neck. My Frankenstin bass, with Status Graphite neck. The Mighty Mite fretless neck made its way onto a MIM Jazz body. A Fender MIM lined fretless neck temporarily on a Squier body; I might be waiting for a nice Jazz body to appear at some point.. I've also got a Squier neck I've used temporarily on one or two of those bodies. I previously had a Warmoth/Status Graphite lined fretless. This was the earlier Fender MIM neck on a Squier body (I think I put a Squier neck on that and sold it on).

I bought one of these last week for not a lot. It still needs a bit of work, but it's remarkably good for a Chickenbacker.

I guess they're hoping for more footfall.

Including this?

I'd just like to point out that this venue is a single hall, so we can organise the talks as interludes between folks bashing their basses (or is it vice-versa!). We've got about 5 hours to play with, so it should work out about right.

I had one on one Ric and it got in the way of playing with a plec.

Hmmmm - I have one more bass one would fit!

I've just bought a bigger car! 🙂

My advice is buy used - you can get more for your money. Also, if you buy used, you will likely be able to sell it for what you bought it for, so it's cost-neutral.

Yep (ref. pg#3). Do we need to give any disclaimers regarding that "the management accepts no responsibility", etc.?

Perhaps it needs to be included in surveys.

Rockboard to modular patch bays, including wireless, midi, mains, and so-on. I have a MIDI one in a 19" rack unit (they do a 2-module 1U rack adapter). https://www.rockboard.de/en/mod-patchbays/

The GigRig Cinco Cinco is a pedalboard patch bay. https://shop.thegigrig.com/products/cinco-cinco-patch-bay It's just 5 straight-through jack socket pairs and each is stereo. With one of these you can lay out your pedals as you please and don't have to have the first & last in the chain at the edges of the board. They're great with EBS flats, so you wire up the board permanently. I think they may be made by Bright Onion on occasion.

Here's an example of what can be had, on FB.

I once tried a Darkglass distortion pedal and it turned my (wired) setup into a noise magnet. The thing is, distortion introduces high frequencies, which therefore make things susceptible to high frequency noise.

My first bass was a £50 Columbus Jazz (in 1976) - it was ok to get me going. My second bass was a £220 (in 1977) Rickenbacker and I've never once regretted buying it. So, my advice is get a good bass. You can get Fender MIM basses for not a lot. (For illustration and not for sale), I have a beat-up one which cost me £100; I wasn't sure if the damage was structural so bought it on spec, but it turned out to be rather good. One remarkably good bass with wild fluctuations in price is a Westone Thunder under £200 will get you a 1 or 1A (though you could see asking prices of £500+); they are quite heavy though. I'd recommend buying used: check Facebook, Gumtree, etc. Amp-wise, as suggested, Trace Elliot gear can be had cheaply; the gotcha is that the cabs (and thus combos too) are heavy. I recently bought a 300W head for £150, which is ridiculous! Reasonable fx pedals shouldn't be expensive - a decent one should be under £100 (eg. a Boss Bass Overdrive can be had for £40).

I think the alarms are supposed to catch things before it turns into a blazing inferno. The could be a fire in the plenum, embedded wiring, or wherever. Carbon Monoxide can kill you without you even being aware of it. It'd be a bad thing to have folks cart their gear in, only to find the walls getting hot and they have to leg it out and leave the kit behind. And imagine the insurance or legal implications of "Oh, the bloke on the phone told me to just go in and switch off the alarm and we'd be alright.".