prowla

[quote name='Joebethell' timestamp='1485892048' post='3227588'] Big deal again? [/quote] Yep - the same person had the two made. I may have that one too; just having a conversation with myself about head vs. heart...

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1485880697' post='3227469'] I think it's obvious that i was exagerating a bit on this . Active is active and passive is passive, etc... My example was to point out the amount of users saying that they use a passive bass so they don't have to fiddle endlessly with the EQ section of an active bass but then they go and add a preamp pedal to their signal chain to be able to obtain the desired tone. The forum is filled with threads about "achieving this tone" that end up with the addition of a sansamp/vtbass/BDI/etc. In those cases the fiddling avoided on the bass will move on to the pedal, don't you agree? [/quote] Well, I think it relates to the design of the given bass's sound; in the case of a passive one it has been optimised in one way, whereas an active one will have been targeted at the result after the electronics (or even the versatility of the electronics), even if they are just simple volume and tone.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1485806420' post='3226886'] You could argue that if you used a passive bass, passive amp and a passive pa mixer ALL of the sound has been produced by the instrument as only some of what the pickup 'collected' is being amplified (same but louder), once you introduce an active eq in the bass, amp or PA mixer that can create something that didn't happen the final amplified sound is not what went in at the bass pickup and is essentially synthetic. It's not an active bass but it's no less synthetic once it goes through an active EQ. How many amps are purely passive these days and who has a passive EQ PA system? [/quote] You can't have a passive amp. There was a short fashion in Hi-Fi of having passive pre-amps, but they were really just a potentiometer in a box front-ending an active power amp. If you want passive end-to-end you have to have acoustic instruments.

Mine is my Status. It was preceded by a Warwick, which I didn't get on with at all. The Status is rather nice.

[quote name='Dave Vader' timestamp='1485773632' post='3226490'] Mine wasn't much more impressive. I was shocked at how much it went for, without complaint. Jon - Bassasin - made me a new one from clear plastic and laser-printed paper for much less (you can see it in my avatar). Holographic sounds fun though. [/quote] It looks good in the avatar.

[quote name='Marc S' timestamp='1485783826' post='3226629'] Now that would be neat! - I'm sure someone could do it [/quote] Something like "Rickenbacker"/"Rickenfaker" alternating. Now, you can get cards & sometimes magazines which have them - I think I might keep an eye out for one and see if one might work for a background. I had been thinking about having a guitar body painted in the dual-tone finish (like some TVRs) - maybe a deep blue and a deeper crimson.

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1485797896' post='3226789'] Using a preamp pedal allways on EQ'd to achieve the desired tone (as i've read about a lot of BC users doing) between a bass and a amp isn't different from having a preamp mounted inside the bass, is it? [/quote] The difference is it's not in the bass. Actually, I have a SansAmp which I use to boost passive bass to match the active. I do get the point, and indeed I have said on occasion that the instrument includes the amp and speakers too! However, looking at the component parts, an active bass is one which has onboard active electronics and a passive is one which doesn't.

Oh dear - it has a cousin... (Fretless, EMGs.)

Straplock buttons come with a longer screw too, so you could combine the matchstick with a longer screw. (I wouldn't be inclined to use a wider screw though.)

Adding an effect or amp after the output of the guitar does not make the guitar active. By that token, all amplified live music is active and all recorded music is active, since it is processed via a mixer, and reproduced via a replay system with an amplifier. Clearly the term "active" (bass or guitar) refers to the instrument itself and not post-processing.

[quote name='Bassman Sam' timestamp='1485709954' post='3226005'] Thanks, It is. Really happy with it. The GAS has gone , for now. [/quote] It'll be back!

I don't suppose you used an iPhone for the picture, did you? I think that they may not put some info into the photos, as I've had it happen of late when I've uploaded photos to tinypic. I've found the answer is to open it on your PC (in my case a Mac mini) and save it as-is; it then uploads fine. Oh, and nice bass, btw.

It depends how the bass was designed; some are intended to work around the actives, whilst others' distinctive character is because they are passive.

That looks like a nice bass.

[quote name='bumnote' timestamp='1485684738' post='3225721'] Nail varnish will do the job [/quote] I suppose that's handy to know if you're in a glam-rock band...

Threadlock - that's been on my shopping list for years and I never quite seem to get around to picking some up!

The "About" page says they're made in UK or Korea; I'm not sure what the hardware & electronics are. So the question is whether these are cheap imports with a markup; one of the tell-tale signs is the over-glossy finish on the body. That said, I have a (very) cheap Chinese bass and it is really quite good (after a bit of setting up and judicious use of a hacksaw!). And it is good to see a bass which isn't just a partsblaster P- or J-.

[quote name='Dave Vader' timestamp='1485529720' post='3224691'] I sold the fake one from my Hondo on ebay, fully explained as being a fake. It went for 75 quid somehow. I highly recommend it. [/quote] Mine is clear plastic with a laser printed paper stuck on the back; I think I'm going to try and soak it off and print another for it. Incidentally, I've just had an idea: I wonder if it's possible to get holographic logos made; the ones which have one image if you look from one angle and a different one from another.

I'm in need of a bridge baseplate, if anybody spots one (I am chatting with someone on the FB page).

This is why I kindof respect Rickenbacker for protecting their brand (or at least trying to). I think that people bodge their Fender copies and stick fake logos on them for their own vanity, but then they sell them on and before long there's someone who thinks it's the real thing.

[quote name='BassManGraham' timestamp='1485618128' post='3225357'] I have a MIM 70s Classic. As I am a sucker for block inlay fret boards and love the 70's P/U position, I. As it comes it is a very decent bass indeed and stands up well in head to head with my USA jazzes. If you can get a clean one for under £500 I would definitely go for it. Personally I find the C neck profile chunkier for my stubby fingers than my USA Standard and Deluxe Jazzes. I have made a few upgrades to it and now it blows away all Standard & Deluxe non modified USA models. Mods include an East J Retro Active Circuit, Badass II Bridge, Tortoise Shell Pickguard, Hipshot Drop D Xtender tuner. It sounds and looks great. However for the cost of the preowned bass and upgrades I could have probably ordered an Elwood! I think an Elwood or Headless Frog is next on my G.A.S list Good hunting [/quote] (I refer you to my "wandered into a shop" thread... :-) )

Rickenbackers have a .0047 cap in series with the treble pickup; later models have a Vintage-Modern switch on a push-pull pot (Vintage = cap in series, Modern = bypassed). It's just an SPDT switch.

People who put Fender logos on non-Fenders like this are being dishonest.

[quote name='Dan_Q' timestamp='1485525731' post='3224639'] Thanks man, i'll take a look on the facebook group Prowla- that's awesome. very well done [/quote]Thanks!