prowla

Are there good Peavey basses? I've never been sure about them, but perhaps I've confused budget and high-end models. (Genuine question, BTW - I'm not dissing them and am prepared to be "informed"!)

Well, P-Bass pickups are humbuckers anyway. I think you can get Jazz replacement humbuckers, which wouldn't require surgery. An active circuit might be an option and cutting out a battery bay would probably be acceptable or even enhance the instrument. Before getting out your hammer and chisel, it might be worth seeing the character of the instrument itself; try playing your basses unplugged and see if they sound similar, to avoid trying to compensate with pickups for something which isn't there in the first place. An alternative to changing the bass at all would be to get a shaping preamp - I have a SansAmp and it is really good, for example to lift a passive bass to match an active one. OTOH, if you want to play and tinker with the bass, then go for it and have a blast!

So, a few months back I decided I'd like to make a bass up from parts and went off browsing ebay. Well, I spotted a Squier P-Bass with a load of extra parts and thought "that'll do!"; the body had been sprayed orange and the owner had then lost interest... So, I got it and assembled it, and it was OK. I then dug out some parts I had and put a badass bridge on it and a better (Shadow) pickup, along with wiring up the electrics and putting on some Straplocks. For the electrics I decided I might be chopping and changing a bit, so I put in small connectors rather than having to use a soldering iron all the time. Then someone at work said they were going to upgrade the neck on their fretless bass (with a Tokai body), so I had that off them; it's a Mighty Mite and is extraordinarily good. Now, if you are eagle-eyed, you'll spot something strange about the 1st machine head - I put on a D-tuner. So, now the only original bit left of the Squier is the body; I'll probably replace that too at some point, if/when the right one comes along. However, in the interim there is one small problem - there is a couple of mm gap in the neck pocket between it and the body and also a further gap to the end of the scratchplate. Any suggestions on how I might fill that, 'til I get a new body and/or scratchplate? I don't want to fill & re-drill the neck holes for this body, so that's not an option.

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1484232950' post='3213790'] Never spotted that! Guess I could put up with just the 20, at a push... [/quote] That's my super master skills with Windows Paint! (The earlier picture I posted shows it as it is.) I think it is a shortcoming of the Ricky and they missed the opportunity to add more when they shifted the neck pickup back in the 4003 & Laredo. If I were to get a headless, I'd have as many frets as would fit there. The other thing about a headless is that I might not have it [i]look[/i] like a Ricky, so long as it [i]sounded[/i] like one, so I could maybe have a completely custom body, but it would probably have to be the same woods and through neck (with dual rods) and Ricky pickups in the correct positions. Graphite and brass hardware probably wouldn't work. I guess I'm taking a different angle on the faker there - most people seem to want something which looks like a Ricky, even if it sounds not quite right and plays different; I want the sound and the feel. On the flipside I am still planning to pick up the Japanese faker on the weekend, though we've just had winter arrive, so I'll have to see how the weather goes - it's a two and a half hour drive, so I need a clear run really.

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1484178041' post='3213410'] Your '73 is pretty much my dream Rick - all the vintage bells & whistles (it's even a 21 fretter!) and that age-darkened Fireglo. Gorgeous. [/quote] Cheers! (Actually I added in the extra fret in the rather crudely edited picture where I chopped the headstock off...)

Yep - I'm chaning my mindset and plan to probably put the faker back to its original state (if I get the original machines with it). As for the real ones, I think they are the most stunning man-created object ever; one of mine is the '73 above and the other is this '64.

[quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1484119867' post='3212761'] There is nothing against Forum rules with posting a picture of a lovely JB bass. But to reference that it's for sale, the price and the location is. This may appear odd due to the volume of information available on the internets, but IIWII and if you require the reasons behind it all please feel free to contact John Hall at Rickenbacker. Now, how about a picture of a nice John Birch bass? [/quote] Sure - apologies again; I'm new here and hadn't really twigged. I do get what Rickenbacker are doing too and don't blame them either. I think it's terrible what's happened with Fender and transfers - there are so many forgeries about, so if Rickenbacker need to protect their brand then it can help the unwitting too. I've got two real Rickys and should be picking up my first 'faker on the weekend (unless the weather hits the UK roads). I view the fakers as a bit of fun rather than impinging on the true company's business. In the case of the John Birch, I think it merits as a guitar in its own right regardless of what it happens to look like. Anyway, it's great to have the forum and this thread and long may it live!

I'm sorry about that - I posted the white JB because it was a nice looking bass, not because of the sale per-se. I fully appreciate the stance; my bad!

So anyway, I've always had this hankering to have a headless Ricky. A bit of crude cut'n'paste for a rough idea... Whaddya reckon - might work? Heck, maybe a donor Ricky with a broken head might make a good base. I could otherwise experiment with body shapes or base it on a more modern Ricky where the neck pickup is further down, so the body could be shortened a bit.,.

[quote name='five-string.co.uk' timestamp='1484063996' post='3212353'] I really like Scott's comment at the bottom of the page..... [indent=2][color=#696969][i]"[font=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]I was waiting for the price to drop on these: 4K for a passive j or p bass with very little customisation has me going all kinds of "ehhhhh", considering you're in sadowsky NYC territory price wise. And leaving you space for a preamp is kind of like selling a Lamborghini with a big gap in the engine bay where the turbo would go. Man, drop the price by 2k, and outsource the labour to Japan, Ken Smith style. People can still "have" a fodera of company monitored quality. I think we all put the brand up on a bit of a pedestal, and this line feels like it's taking the piss a bit"[/font][/i][/color][/indent] [/quote] Following the car metaphor, to me these super P/Js are like buying a Lambo with a Ford body.

Well, I'm waiting to see what the one I'm getting is going to be like. It might be a hoot or it could be a pile of toot. I've always had a soft spot for the Shaftsburys. Another one I would like is a John Birch - I remember Carlsbro Sound having a green-black sunburst (greenburst?) one years ago. But they're really a good guitar styled like a Ricky, rather than a copy per-se.

I have an Affinity P-Bass; it cost me £50. It's now got a Mighty Mite neck on it (that cost me £50 too!). And a Hipshot D-tuner (yep, another £50). And a Badass bridge (I've had it many years, but it probably cost £50). And a Shadow pickup (that was less than £50). I'll probably replace the body at some point, and then it'll be de-Squired. I will then have all the Squier bits to put together and start again though... or I might sell it (for £50!).

[quote name='Harryburke14' timestamp='1483994638' post='3211855'] How much does your average rockinbetter weigh? Ive heard mixed reports about them being an anchor or being "a decent weight" [/quote] I have to say that I've seen the Rockinbetters and not been inclined to pick one up.

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1483812854' post='3210359'] Thought so! And just to demonstrate that I know my Fakers, the one you're buying is a Matsumoku-built bolt-neck, which would (assuming you're in the UK) have likely originally been badged as Arbiter, CMI, Aria or Aria Pro II, amongst others. You'll find it has a neckplate stamped "Steel Adjustable Neck" with a random serial number you can't date it from. Shame it has Schaller tuners because that means the original Wavy Grover copies have been replaced. Not that there's anything wrong with Schallers. It may also have dual truss rods like a real Rick (which unlike a real Rick, should work properly) but not all Mat bolt-necks have them. I can tell all that from four little dots. [/quote] Yep - STEEL ADJUSTABLE NECK

[quote name='Skybone' timestamp='1483978563' post='3211632'] They used to, the BT 5 IIRC (or was it the BT6?) [/quote] It should be the 5, but it's not currently listed on their site.

[quote name='Harryburke14' timestamp='1483910624' post='3211116'] For me, the money being spent on it is definitely worth it. I am getting a custom made, personalised bass to my spec built by a master craftsman at a very low price. Should all go to plan, this will be my number one bass for as long as I can play. [/quote] I'd say you are getting a (very) nice looking bass, certainly.

Doh! Hipshot don't do a Ricky D-tuner - they do straight Ricky style machines, but not the D-tuner variant, so I may need to reassess.

[quote name='12stringbassist' timestamp='1475767624' post='3148622'] Some of these may be REAL... [/quote] Is the one on the right a John Birch?

North of £400 for a Squier doesn't make sense to me.

Those veneer jobs are really nice! For the OP's HB, I'd have to question whether it's worth a lot of money spending on it. If the chip is on the black bit of a sunburst finish, it could just be filled with a dark resin and be pretty much unnoticeable if done right. There seem to be two bare wood guitar body sellers on ebay: guitarbuild https://www.guitarbuild.co.uk/ and someone who is selling seconds (might be guitabuild ones?). I've just built a Partscaster using one of the seconds made from Paulownia wood, which is really light; I coloured it with some dark oak stain from Homebase and oversprayed it with some matt lacquer - it looks really good! Back to the HB - is it solid or ply? if it's ply, then stripping it back will be a bit disappointing. Best of luck, anyway. (And did I mention that those veneer jobs are nice?)

Low B every time - it allows you to go deeper, even if it's just down to a D. If you want to go higher, then get more frets and if you're always playing up there then you should be on a guitar! However, having played a 4-string and guitar for may years and thus associating the thickest string with being bottom E, I do find it very easy to forget which instrument I'm on and that I'm one string out! Perhaps the string isn't the only things that's thick here...

[b]Columbus Jazz Bass[/b] copy - it got me into bass playing, so can't be bad. Bought from a Lasky's high-street electrical retailer, if I recall. [b]Rickenbacker 4001[/b] '64 (earlier s/n than McCartney's and Squire's, according to the Ricky book) - bought from a friend of a friend in my teens in the mid '70s for £220; it had a neck problem and a blown pickup, so I got it fixed and sprayed white. Still got it, still have an intake of breath when I look at it. [b]Aria Pro II SB700[/b] - the passive version of the SB1000. It was a decent bass and sounded fretless-like even though it was fretted, but I don't recall when I sold it and I've never missed it. Custom-made "[b]Hooker[/b]" fretless bass - a friend of a friend made it and sold it to me after he made a second one. I lost it in a house move. [b]Rickenbacker 4001[/b] '73 - bought from a drug dealer friend who decided he wanted to play keyboards instead, cost me £333.33 in the early 80s (with money my grandfather left me when he passed). I've still got it. At one stage I put a Badass II bridge on it, but it never really worked and was finally replaced by a Hipshot one last year. The treble pickup was replaced by a SD humbucker, because the stock one was unusable live; the thing about Rickys, though, is they sound like Rickys even when they're not plugged in, so the humbucker works. [b]Hohner The Jack[/b] headless - I was playing in a clubs band in the late '80s and we had a change of clothes each set; one was shiny black outfits with red belts (well, it was the 80s!), so I bought a black bass & red strap to match. I never particularly rated it as a stand-out instrument though and sold it some time in the 90s. [b]Washburn Status[/b] - I wanted a Status, but they are a bit pricey, so I got this. It was OK, but not a real Status. I sold it in the naughties. I'm surprised to see that they are creeping up in value again. [b]Status S2 headless[/b] graphite through-neck - the real thing. Still got it. Quality! Would prefer a 5-string (nearly went for one on ebay a few months back, but forced myself not to bid!). [b]Warwick Corvette 5 string[/b] - I decided to finally try out a 5 string a couple of years ago, so I got this on ebay. It was a Chinese one and I never really liked it; the neck was wrong for me and I think I damaged my left index finger on it. I sold it on ebay to someone who reported back that they liked it. [b]Status 5 string[/b] headed, wooden neck. This is a really nice bass - more organic than the graphite. A keeper! [b]RPG double-neck[/b] 6/4 - RPG was a guitar shop in Cannock (Staffs), whose owner imported some custom designed guitars (often focusing on left-handed, but also did right-handed). This one came up on ebay last year, so I placed a spotter bid on it and nobody outbid me. I drove up and collected it from a nice bloke. I had to do a bit of setting up, including shimming the neck angle; it plays OK now, but could maybe do with a bit more (or professional) work on it so get it right, or maybe it's as good as it'll get. An orange[b] Precision partsblaster[/b] - a "job-lot" on ebay, based on a Squier Affinity Precision/P-Bass, which the previous chap had oversprayed orange, in bits and with some extra parts. I've now replaced the neck with a Mighty Mite fretless one acquired from a workmate who had upgraded (the one he upgraded to must be fantastic, because the MM one is bloody good!) and just put a Hipshot Xtender/D-tuner on the bottom E to trick it up a bit. It's got Shadow (German?) Precision pickup, which is quite good, the Badass II bridge I had on my Ricky, my own wiring assembly, Fender flatwounds and Straplocks (may be Schaller or copies). I may replace the body at some point, at which time I'll probably rebuild the original orange Squier and sell it on to the next projecteer... A Chinese [b]RSL[/b] bass - bought on ebay from a chap (I guess he's RSL!) in the next town; he had some guitars made and decided to make up the numbers with a short run of basses. Again, I put a spotter bid on one and nobody outbid me (they're currently available). The bass is good and bad... It's quite good quality and the neck is very thin and comfortable, but I had to do a lot of setup work and even took an angle off the end of the fretboard overhang to allow my finger to get in for slap (I'm not great at that, but it was actually impossible til I got my hacksaw & file out). The bad is that the final assembly lets it down (in particular the neckplate screws) and the bridge is four individual single-string bridges whose saddles are tiny black squares which fall out when you take the string off (I can just imagine breaking a string and losing one!), so I'll probably replace it with a more robust conventional one (from my box of bits). A [b]Hohner Rockwood Precision[/b] - another ebay spotter bid which won (I think I maybe need to stop doing that!)... It was an OK bass, bright red, but I got it and decided I didn't really want it. I considered using it for a possible gig with a Pink Floyd tribute band as a kind of nod to how to play crap bass (I'm not a Roger Waters fan), but I decided I was probably better off just not going for it. I sold it last week on ebay (for a profit of £1!). [b]Fakenbacker[/b] - I've just arranged to buy a Ricky copy project off someone who had put it on ebay, but ebay pulled the auction for fake/replica/copyright infringement. I got in touch with the seller and have arranged to collect it next weekend. I'd like to build it up with quality parts (I've got a spare Hipshot bridge and a genuine Ricky toaster pickup) with a view to eventually getting a real Ricky body and shifting everything onto it. I was hoping to put a Hipshot Xtender on it too, but it looks like they don't do a Ricky one :-( . It came with a non-genuine "Rickenbacker" truss rod cover, but I may replace it with "Frickenbacker" in the appropriate lettering. So, that's me: some keepers, some hackabouts and some I can take or leave. (Smiles happily and saunters off to open a can of beer...) Going ahead, I'd like another 5-string (I'd be up for replacing the Status headless 4-string like-for-like) and will probably noodle around with partsblasters

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1483812854' post='3210359'] Thought so! And just to demonstrate that I know my Fakers, the one you're buying is a Matsumoku-built bolt-neck, which would (assuming you're in the UK) have likely originally been badged as Arbiter, CMI, Aria or Aria Pro II, amongst others. You'll find it has a neckplate stamped "Steel Adjustable Neck" with a random serial number you can't date it from. Shame it has Schaller tuners because that means the original Wavy Grover copies have been replaced. Not that there's anything wrong with Schallers. It may also have dual truss rods like a real Rick (which unlike a real Rick, should work properly) but not all Mat bolt-necks have them. I can tell all that from four little dots. [/quote] Hehe... That's interesting info - Matsumoku is a good name to hear; I don't have a picture of the back. I do like the wavy Grovers (my real one above has them), but I'm kindof glad about the Schallers, because I think the Hipshot should be about the same. The bloke is going to throw in whatever other parts he has too, so it'll be interesting to see what I get. I've got a real Ricky toaster pickup in my box of parts, which may find its way to the neck position. I'll make up the wiring harness and will add a switch for the serial treble cap option. I'll probably treat it to the real knobs too. And straplocks (it looks like the strap button on the top horn is in the wrong place, so that'll have to move). I've been wanting a black Ricky, so it might get a paint job. All-in-all, I'm quite looking forward to it!

I've just arranged to buy a 'faker project; I'm due to go and pick it up next weekend. I'm not sure of the brand; it's got the skunk stripe in the neck and into the neck pickup bay, but not then through to the bridge. It'll probably be a platform to build the parts onto, with the aim of picking up a genuine Ricky body at some point if I spot one. I might put the Seymour Duncan off the red one above onto it (and restore the original pickup to the original Ricky). I've got another Hipshot bridge which will go onto it. The one I'm buying has Schaller machines, but I plan to put a Hipshot Xtender/D-Tuner onto it (I've just put one onto my Precision fretless project). It's got a scratchplate, pickup surround and replica Ricky truss-rod cover, but is missing a twin jack plate (it was single-jack, but the previous owner has drilled a second socket).

[quote name='chriswareham' timestamp='1482784798' post='3202753'] Is that one of the Hipshot bridges? [/quote] Yep. [quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1482798499' post='3202829'] Interesting. Definitely a Faker? [/quote] Actually, no; it's a genuine '73 Ricky - I faked a faker!