prowla

Hmmm - not sure about this, but it might grow on me. Neil Peart was the perfect drummer for Rush, who were the perfect band for his playing; I don’t care whether he was the best in the world or not: that’s a complete irrelevance. Effectively they’re doing a tribute to Rush, which is pretty much what they said. It could well be fun! Alex Lifeson is looking old and I thought he had arthritis, so we’ll see how that goes. But anyway, blah blah blah…

Yep - I repeatedly see people trying to sell replicas for "what it owes them", but that doesn't equate to what it's worth. It doesn't matter if it's subjectively "better than a real one", because it's not actually a real one. If you buy used, then it's likely to be a zero-cost item if/when you decide to move it on.

It's a no from me.

(NB. Watts are "W".)

I'd give more creedence to one which had its original brand. You could go with Aria, based on your info, but the identical bass could have left the factory with one of several other brands and we'll (sorry - royal "we" sounds pompus!) never know. The Rickenbastard is an option for Lemmy fans. Or you could choose one with anything you like on it! I've had a couple with TRCs by GIG.INK...

Yep - I put one on a 2010 4003 and couldn't get it low enough, so I reverted to the original V1.

500W is a bigger number than 300, that’s a fact. However, it’s only about 10% louder, through the same cab (assuming it can handle the power), as volume is logarithmic. So lots more power isn’t the whole story. But, as you say, the efficiency of the cab (and how many) are significant and it doesn’t matter anyway if your ears are already bleeding.

I can see that’s a faker from the one photo, without taking the TRC off. The faker truss-rods had different adjusters, so having two wasn’t necessarily the tell anyway.

Sorry for persisting, but Aria was one of several brands produced at the Matsumoku factory and without the original, sellers often choose the most advantageous brand to go with when offering on the item without specific bonafides. It’s especially prevalent with Grecos.

Is a single truss-rod relevant?

On the one hand you could get an Aria replica one made, but on the other how do you know it was an Aria?

I'd keep the original Greco TRC on it; it's more authentic that way. Anybody who knows Rics will spot it's a faker and anybody who doesn't won't know or care about the brand anyway.

If you plug a mono jack into the Rick-O-Sound socket you should only get the Treble pickup, as it's the Tip connection of the TRS. For diagnostics you can pull it part-way out to get the Bass pickup, which is on the Ring connector. And, of course (for all bar one guitar model), you only plug into one at a time: the Normal (mono) socket has a switch which connects the Bass pickup to the Tip too, so you may get no sound at all if you try to use both outputs at the same time.

They may be simple (high-level) designs, but that can be a good thing. And, of course, the selection/matching/tolerance of the components forms part of the specification/design of the amp. So, apparently similar designs can differ in sound quite markedly. The "power" thing is interesting and perhaps subjective, and may not be definitive in terms of perceived volume/loudness... There's a saying that 10x the power = 2x the volume (all other aspects being the same); given that Trace Elliot amps are available in 500W (or more) and I've yet to see a 5kW power amp or bass cab, I'd suggest that the "way beyond" assertion is questionable. There's also the question of how the "power" is measured: rms, peak, sustained, etc. I remember in the past someone saying you couldn't run a Hi-Fi amp at full volume because it would distort; I said that just meant its spec was wrong and demonstrated my 15Wpc amp cranked up with no discernable degradation of sound. In the real world, the last time I went out I took my Trace Elliot 300W amp and it sounded bloody good; I don't think I had the vol above 1/4. I do have a couple of preamps (Ampreg & SWR) and a Class-D power amp in a 19" case, and keep meaning to give them a go. However, I've also recently picked up an EBS Reidmar 250W and that's probably next on the list.

Wow - a whole month!

In fairness to Peavey, I think they had good intentions and were perhaps caughtup in the programme, but then commercial reality hit. Their ex-employees weren't treated fairly though.

Yup - it would be where that orange wire runs from the switch to the bottom-right (in the picture) pot, between the green sleeves to the two tone caps. So, you’re not going to get the Chris Squire sound.

The Vintage/Modern switch is a clever mod; it just engages a short across the cap when in normal position and disengages it when pulled. An easy retro-fit and invisible from outside.

It also functions as a hub on my pedalboard, as it has an FX loop. I run that to a GigRig switcher which switches/bypasses various other pedals.

I'm a Rickaholic!

I use Rotosound 40-60-80-100 roundwounds on my Rics.

On that front, I have an EBS Microbass 3; it is an absolutely excellent piece of kit. Its only downfall is the "distortion" channel; if it had two identical ones it would be perfect (they do a Stanley Clarke acoustic bass version, but it doesn't have the tuner). Apparently the Microbass is the pre- section of their Reidmar amps, so I have one of those to try. The last jam I did I took along a Trace Elliot amp and played it through a large cab; it sounded rather good with just the pre-shape button pressed.

I had a 4003s/5 for a while; the styling amused me, but it didn't feel like a Ric to me and I never quite gelled with it; I sold it back to the person I bought it from after a year(@6feet7). I played @Happy Jack's and his was the same. As for HW, he has a good reputation for producing replicas to order, including some of those instruments RIC never made. I have a faker from another UK-based maker (DC) who has stepped back a bit; it was originally made as an 8-string, but the neck couldn't cope and it was re-purposed as a 4. That sort of hints at one of the pitfalls: a Ric neck can be lovely and slim, but can't handle high-tension/heavy gauge strings and adding an extra one adds 25% more tension which can have structural implications. I'd expect HW to be well across those implications. Also, for info, Retrovibe do 5-string faker pickups. Also (#2), some real RIcs (4004 Laredo/Cheyenne and the 4003S/5) had Schaller 3D bridges, so there'd be no harm in using one of those. Pics of my 4-nee-8 string faker.

A Precision will tend to be louder than a Ric, but the Ric is more subtle and you have to work a bit to get the character. You might need to up the Gain a bit for the Ric. When in mono mode, winding back one of the Vols a smidge can make it louder. To get the absolute best you can use the Rick-O-Sound (stereo) output to run it to two amps and then set the controls to suit. A Precision does what it does very well; if you're stuck playing roots & fifths below the bottom 5 frets then you're as well sticking with the Precision. The Ric realisation comes when you do more adventurous stuff and notice how the sound gets thicker as you go up the neck and more growly as you play lower down. They really are a very expressive instrument. Perhaps it's better to think of it as starting afresh rather than a variant of a Precision.

Well, yes and no... If you run Rick-O-Sound then you can control each pickup separately. If you want to play anything Chris Squire, pull the Treble pickup tone and then go "Oh!". The bypass pot is an easy fit which does unlock some variations.