prowla

Both of those prices are silly.

That's my thought, or a fault in the power supply. But anyway, it has a "Do not open" sticker over one of the lid screws, so I'm not going to look. I messaged the seller, but haven't had a reply, so I guess I'll raise a dispute at the end of the week.

So there is - a nice looking set-neck. However, asking 3-4x its value is having a giraffe.

Not having its original TRC and damage impacts its value.

Yes - it was just on plugging in the IEC cable, with the front switch of the amp off.

Ah - I do find TalkBass a bit difficult to follow.

Aye. In my case, the amp was shipped to my address in the UK and supplied with a UK 13A plug mains lead. It was sold with the following description: "Input Voltage: AC220~240V, 50/60Hz / AC110~120V, 50/60Hz ( 110V US Versions only have New Design Versions, please choice new design if you use it in USA)". The case has a "Do not open" anti-tamper sticker over one of the lid screws. The seller's rating is: easydo2012 (3742)

Fingers crossed - I'll see what the response is. There's also the question of VAT & duties.

I don't recall you trying to warn me? eg. in or or (though you had posted a comment in this one before I joined the thread).

Actually, there must be a dark cloud over prowlasville at the moment: I've got COVID. I had the issue with the Rickenbacker TRC a couple of weeks back (fortunately got a refund). I've had a pulled calf muscle for over a month. This power amp issue. I'm in the process of upgrading my Virgin broadband to 1 Gb, but the replacement router they sent me arrived yesterday DOA (loose piece inside which rattles). My motto: Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get you!

FYI, I got a refund from the seller. And he's getting a refund off his seller.

Fab re. the Citronix! At least I bought it in a shop (in Bognor Regis) and it was only £150 (NOS).

Aye - it looks like it's a pot-luck situation (actually, I did give weight to your recommendation). Ironically, if I'd seen the other one I happened across in a shop the week after, I wouldn't have bothered with the one from China.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334387167184?var=543385789350

Thanks for persevering! Power-amp Ch1 output connected via a single Speakon connector to one Markbass 1x12 cab (nothing in cab's 2nd Speakon socket, ie. not daisy-chained). Power-amp Ch2 output connected via a single Speakon connector to a second Markbass 1x12 cab (nothing in cab's 2nd Speakon socket, ie. not daisy-chained). Power-amp Ch3 & Ch4 outputs not connected. Ampeg & SanAmp preamps connected to power-amp Ch1 & Ch2 XLR inputs. Power-amp's mains switch set to 0. Power-amp's vol controls set to 0. Mains cable plugged into plugboard. IEC plugged in to socket at back of power-amp, fizz-bang, house mains tripped. Note: I didn't power-on the power-amp (ie. its switch). I had the above setup working with another power amp - I was just doing a like-for-like swap to put in the new one (bar using XLR instead of jack cables for pre- to power-amp connections).

Two; I wired it up and then plugged in the mains. The amp's power switch was off.

It's labelled 220V and supplied with only a UK power cable.

I found a great 4-channel 1U 4x1300 Watt power amp on ebay. It took a couple of weeks to arrive and I had to pay duty on it. I got around to connecting it up this evening. Plugged it in, pop!, house power tripped, slight electrical smell. Grrr, now I’ve got to chase up the issue with the seller. A load of hassle and presumably I’ll lose money on the inevitable return.

Well, the 4-channel one arrived from China. I decided to rack it up and give it a go this evening. Plugged it into the mains, loud pop!, smell of burnt electrics. Dammit!

A way to try it would be to turn off one of the pickups on a full T-bird and see what it sounds like.

Attendees / Gear list 1. MacDaddy - Custom Shukers / Rob Allen Mouse / Peavey Vypyr VIP III 2. Binky Bass - Binky 10 string, USA Conklin 8 string, ACG 9 string, 3 x ACG 6 strings, Reiver 7 string (geeeetar), GR Bass Dual 1400 & GR Bass AT410+, Helix LT, Pinegrove straps, Richter straps etc. 3. Cetera - Spector (USA NS2 & NS2X, Euro Classic, Euro LX (w/Haz),Euro 'Rachel Bolan', Pulse II ) Wal Mk1 'Geddy Lee', Fender FSR PJ with East pre, Hamer Impact, Pedulla Buzz 4 fretless and maybe Jackson TBird, GK400RB, GK Legacy 800 & Tech21 VT500 Heads, Genz Benz Neox212 cab. 4. Frank Blank - Jabba short scale fretted, ACG SS Recurve, Ibanez SRC6, QSC K12.2, HX Stomp. 5. Merton - various ACGs, Zoots, Conway Instruments basses, Glockenklang Blue Rock, Barefaced Two10/One10 6. Eude - ACG Finn SC Classic 6 string, ACG RetroB 5, ACG TKO Modern 4, ACG ChubstRR Mikro 6 string, 2 X ACG Mule 4 strings (on loan from ACG), GK Legacy 500, 1 or 2 Barefaced One10 Cabs, Dod 250(r) modded with @Sibob 7. Stingray5 - MusicMan Stingray5, Tune TWB6, Tune SWV4-BB, Boss GT-6B, Eden EC15 combo OR Trace Elliot GP12SMX combo. 8. NancyJohnson - NS Design NXT5a EUB, Lull JAXT4, Darkglass A/O900, Darkglass 112 cab, Tech 21 dUg. 9. prowla: Obligatory Rickenbackers, a Warwick or two, maybe a Kramer aluminium necked bass, some pedals, Ampeg & Tech 21 preamps (subject to change), maybe the Minitaur & MIDI bass pedals.

I’m in!

I've got a MIM Precision and also one from parts; they are both very good basses.

With the PK-5A you can assign the Mono to one patch and the Poly to another and so change between two sounds on one switch press. It also works for octaves, which is quite handy if you're in your "Clocks" phase. Note that the Minitaur is octave limited, so it doesn't do the high notes; however, some people have used an octaver (EHX Pitchfork) to work around that.