Bridgehouse

I've just got hold of a Mex classic 50's Precision - the Black non-relic Nitro one, and it's excellent. Should be able to get one just in budget new...

I think action is subjective. And it depends on the bass. And your technique. And the strings. And the direction of the wind etc.. I've been playing with the action on my 64 P recently. The exercise was to see what I preferred playing wise and tone wise. I swapped the TIs out for Chromes as I wanted a slightly higher tension feel - I figured I would probly go back to the TIs after a while. It's proven to be an interesting exercise. The board is now dead flat, which is surprising as it's a 7.5" radius and vintage frets. However, setting it flat, the best tone/playability action seems to be around 2mm E and 1.7 G - with the A and D at around 1.8 ish. Any lower and the tone just drops out a touch, any higher and it doesn't feel as good to play. Funnily enough I'm sticking with the Chromes and the action as it is as I'm liking the sound I'm getting. I'd describe it as a medium-low action and it seems to fit this particular bass just fine. Horses/courses and YMMV etc..

I've learned so much from this thread.

[quote name='LITTLEWING' timestamp='1491505496' post='3273631'] Helps if you played ordinary guitar, after that bass is a doddle. Listen to loads of music, attempt to play every style. Play at least 15 mins a day. (Keep this quiet but I take mine in when I have a poo) .....ah....maybe TMI..... [/quote] The headstock would bash against the loo roll holder in my loo. You must have a cavernous, Er, smallest room

[quote name='Chiliwailer' timestamp='1490959427' post='3269391'] mmm.. Lindy Fralin... [/quote] That thought had crossed my mind...

[quote name='Bigwan' timestamp='1490953434' post='3269314'] Saw that bass. I still kick myself daily for passing one of those (although the non-lacquer version) up at £350 in crack converters Belfast a couple of years ago... [/quote] I'm a convert. Serious quality for the cash. I have also learned a lot about how maple and body wood affects tone.

[quote name='Sibob' timestamp='1490947223' post='3269215'] Just out of interest, this model? https://www.gak.co.uk/en/fender-classic-series-50s-precision-bass-lacquer-black/113404?gclid=COeczv-igNMCFXEW0wodTtIAFw Si [/quote] Yes, that's the one. Mine is 2015 and used, and was half new price, well, a bit less. Really pleased as it does a good impression of a preCBS. I'm tempted to swap out the pickup, but it's fine for the moment.

Quick update: Saw a 50s classic advertised on here - black lacquer version. Went to try it today and bought it from a lovely BCer. I can confirm that the neck profile is identical to my 64. The maple feels a touch different, but not much. Frets are the same size. It does sound different, but I expected that. All in all I would say neck feel is 95% the same as the 64, and sound is probably 80% Very happy and now have a suitable muddy field bass

My 64 and 74 Ps sound quite different... One is a bit fatter and gnarlier, and a little more articulate, the other is deeper, more boomy and less grindy.....

[quote name='JamesBass' timestamp='1490539307' post='3265775'] I'm on a similar path as yourself right now, except I'm being even fussier, I want a vintage 60s style P neck, wide and shallow, but with a compound radius, a modern bridge, modern/better access to the higher frets, as well as a vintage sound, in a rather fetching Sunderland AFC red! I promise I'm not too demanding! My search has taken me to custom built for sure! [/quote] I've really got used to the 7.5" radius on my 64. The old fender bridge has it's advantages too - easy to adjust string spacing and I've found it very easy to dial in the right string height and intonation settings - much easier than I thought it would be. Oh, and where are these higher frets that you speak of?

[quote name='Hooch' timestamp='1490530411' post='3265700'] I can do such a comparison on my Lakland P if it's any help. I think it's very close to the 64-shape, plus the vintagey frets. As for the differences, slab RW vs veneer one, flatter fingerboard board too. [/quote] It would be useful to know, thanks!

[quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1490516355' post='3265555'] That's very interesting. I'll have to do that! It's a shoulder thing for me too, less is good. [/quote] I wasn't sure it was going to be meaningful at first, but was pleasantly surprised by the result actually. As a comparator it gives a good account of itself.

[quote name='drake' timestamp='1490445785' post='3265186'] Don't think the Mike Dirnt Precision has been mentioned? A veritable telegraph pole of a neck and with a rosewood board too I think? [/quote] I think I've arrived at the conclusion that wide but slim with a very soft vee is the preference. I'm on the lookout for a classic 50s even tho they are maple, as I think the maple/rw thing is a red herring!

[quote name='LewisK1975' timestamp='1490372081' post='3264728'] Thanks! Not a member of the Fretboard, but now I may have to be... [/quote] There's actually quite a few bass builds over in the Making & Modding section. Bass traffic is low generally tho - much more expertise and experience over here!!

The maker is well known over on the fretboard - he doesn't advertise, and there's no website. Most of his sales are for a charity he helps to run. If you pop over there and search for gspbasses you'll see plenty of his builds. Sadly the only way I know to get in touch is through the fretboard. Sometimes he does a bulk sale of stuff he's done on the classifieds there and you can pick up a really good quality body and neck for circa £250 - £300. The quality is actually quite astounding..

If I changed my username to my #1, it would be the price of a 1st class stamp....

I hope I haven't accidentally started a rush on solder wire To be fair, it's actually been interesting trying to understand what I like about one neck shape compared to another. I always thought I preferred the 64 to the 74, and the 74 to the stingray. When looking at the profiles I can sort of see why - the 74 sits in between the two in terms of slimness, shoulder and profile. If the roadwoarn/classic 50's is even just in between the 64 and 74 in profile then I think I'm on to a winner.

[quote name='Lw.' timestamp='1490367092' post='3264658'] ^^ That looks like a fun game! My '57 RI has a wide neck like yours but is apparently a "soft-V" - it's damn comfortable though I've not noticed it feeling particularly like a V. Need to go & buy some solder. [/quote] Looking at the 12th fret one on my 64, I actually think it is a slight soft vee - very subtle and you're right, it's difficult to tell. I reckon that would explain the lack of shoulder though..

[quote name='fftc' timestamp='1490366496' post='3264652'] So a custom neck based on the profile of your '64 is what you need. I understand Shuker can do that for you. Not sure I'd want to drag a custom Shuker through the mud either though! [/quote] Lol - nor me! I will need to find a 50s classic or RW in a shop and see how the profile compares. Close would be good enough for muddy field duties

Body and neck were GSP Basses - I specced out what I wanted and after the usual wait time, they appeared! Brilliant quality. Here's a daylight shot as promised:

Thought I would share a bit more of my thinking and experimenting. Couldn't really understand why the neck profile on the '64 was so appealing. I play guitar too, and I can adapt to most shapes - some I prefer, some not, but not to this degree. So I did a very crude 'solder wire' based profile exercise. (Sad, I know..) Here we go: The '64 is clearly a flatter, slimmer, wider profile - but for me the biggest difference is less 'shoulder' I think combined with vintage frets and the 7.5" radius board, I have my answer. Maple or RW doesn't matter, I don't think. It's the neck profile, and to some extent the nut width (but not exclusively) Well there you go.

New Partsobass day! I got hold of a body and neck recently: Decided to do a funky kind of build with it. So, after Nitro was purchased, I completed a Satin finish on the neck: And the body got a coat of Satin Surf Green: Today was assembly time, and so the following was added: - Fender neck plate + screws - Schaller BM machine heads - Standard P Bridge - Seymour Duncan Quarter Pounder single coil - Associated electronics (!) - Satin Black Pickguard - Chrome Control Plate - EBMM Straplocks - A set of La Bella Low Tension Flats And lo and behold: Sorry about the colours in the next two - stupid white balance! I shall take some more daylight shots tomorrow, so you can see how the Surf Green looks...

[quote name='Marc S' timestamp='1490263005' post='3263658'] Like the look of your latest project BTW Bridgehouse - nice colour too [/quote] I'll do a thread on it when it's done

I've been thinking this one through, and doing some playing to try to pin this wide nut thing down. Why do I like the 64P neck so much? Well, let's have a look at the other 2 basses I have. 74P - Nut width is 41.3mm, thin(ish) C shape, 70's frets (medium) and Maple. Stingray - Nut width is also 41.3mm, classic Stingray shape, the usual Stingray frets, and Maple. Both are strung with Chromes. 64P is 44.5mm nut width, thin profile, thin and skinny vintage frets and Rosewood. It's strung with Tis. I'm actually thinking it's a combination of factors. It's the 44.5mm nut, the thin neck, the rosewood, the frets and the TIs on it. Having a sniff around the internet tonight, I may just have to go out and try a bunch more basses and see what's out there. For instance - Bass Collection Power or Detroit - 43mm nut, rosewood board, medium frets, super-thin 60's profile. Now, that's actually pretty close for £325. I'd also like to try a Fender RW 50's, and the classic 50's as well, but at that kind of money there's an awful lot of used out there that might work..