Bridgehouse

Here's my 64: I reckon they are 4mm: They are prob in-between 3.5mm and 4mm - but 3mm looks too small to me..

I wonder if La Bella low tension flats would give you that feel back? If not, I bet it's that specific set of TI's....

Ah maybe not then

Nows the time when you wish you’d have driven to collect it

“How much to refret my bass mate?”

Feline is a good shout. Really really well made...

Which is what I thought... hence the question. I had a line switcher and even that sucked tone

What’s the snr like on the boss? I suspect the MXR micro amp is pretty quiet - but not tried either so I don’t know

So, Shuker fretless upgraded - I now have a super quiet Preamp for the mag pickup which is under the fretboard. It balances well with the piezo and sounds fabulous either on its own or blended. There’s plenty of headroom at 18v and it’s a good mix. Now, the Delano Preamp has an extra feature I didn’t completely expect - active/passive switching. There’s no doubt about it, in passive mode it is a different sound - quite different, so the Preamp is clearly colouring the sound of the Nordstrand. (Not in a bad way mind) Out of interest, I think I may like to use the passive tone, but as it’s under the board it’s some distance from the strings, so it’s very quiet output wise. I doubt I’d use it live, but I might do in the studio. Can you recommend a clean, transparent, low SNR boost for it?

I suspect the OP doesn’t want his to be shipped “everywhere” tho - having it scattered to the four corners of the globe would be heartbreaking, again....

I feel your pain...

Surprised nobody has piped up with the “man up and do it by feel” line Cos obvs I’m a fretless expert now...

Fingers crossed for you mate

What did she recommend?

Don’t drop it..

I do I do and if I do do then it’ll be a home build job

If the bass was perfect before the string change, and they are heavier - then yep, truss rod to compensate for the change in tension pulling the neck, and then a tweak of the saddles/bridge to compensate for the truss rod adjustment. I'd probly check the nut slots to see if they were ok and there was no binding with the new strings. On a good day, 15 mins tops. Oh and don't forget - Righty tighty, lefty Lucy..

Upgraded the Shuker Fretless today. Nordstrand NJ4SE Pickup bought. Also decided that the old preamp in it was probably a bit long in the tooth and adding to the general hum, hiss and crackle and bought a shiny new Delano Sonar 3 to slap in. Also decided to go 18v for extra headroom and so forth. Spent all afternoon ripping out the old and putting the new in. After my travails, I plug in - and get nothing at all. Nowt. Nada. Nyet. Zip. Long story short - here are three ways not to be a numpty: - When installing another preamp with a graph tech ghost piezo system, always use the AUX PWR out from the ghost board and don't splice the power line from the battery to power your new posh preamp.. - String up your bass after install, as it turns out that modern preamps are super quiet - lack of noise before moving strings does not mean you have wired it like a numpty. Not putting the strings on to check does make you a numpty. - When going from 9v to 18v you need a second battery. ALWAYS CHECK THIS IS NOT DEAD. As you look like a proper numpty when the missus asks if you've tried another battery "in case the one you got out of the kitchen drawer which has been there 3 years is dead" Sigh. However, it's now a super quiet hum and buzz free bass with nearly no hiss except with the treble dimed. It's probly quieter than my passive p's and the Nordstrand pickup sounds glorious... so much so that I may have to get a Jazz and live with the crappy neck just so I can fit a pair of them

Ah it’s easy... *cough*

I really hope it works out for you this time mate

New home for a forum bass..

https://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/ Steve Robinson - call him and mention my forum name - he knows me well enough Utterly trustworthy

Steve Robinson - Manchester Guitar Tech will fret to the highest standards - he refretted a 1960 Les Paul special for me and it was immaculate. I trust him implicitly and his rates are very good - you could drive it over to him as he is Altringham or Trafford way..

Where are you based Andy?

Just as an aside - the maths should work like this Damaged guitar = Original price - cost of repair - adjustment for price as a damaged repaired instrument. So, total cost should be £549 as deemed price for a damaged repaired MINUS the cost of the repair, because as @Dood points out - it’s their liability to repair it before sale and thus their cost.