Bridgehouse

Yes, they are on the Elites

You haven’t seen my ability to ruin a project when it starts looking good though...

They are rare - mainly because the bass buying public likes the Precision/Jazz 1950’s/1960’s formula of an inaccessible nut which needs the neck removing and a stupid imperial sized cross head slot that nobody has a driver for.

My ACG has it, and Stingrays do as well of course. I suspect it’s an aesthetic thing

The Danish Oil is drying super quick in this heat!! So I decided to do a wet and dry slurry sand. For the uninitiated, you use wet and dry paper with the oil rather than water. This is after some 600 and then 1200 grit paper.. you can really see the sheen developing now..

6 hours drying and 3rd coat just gone on.. Needs a dry off and then flatting down - I will use a combination of 0000 wool, wet and dry, and a very fine sanding/finishing block I have - and then a coat of polish to give it some sheen.

When I tried the QSC it wasn’t billed as a standard PA speaker, or actually as an frfr as such - the marketing bumf suggested it was a multi-use cab for a variety of instrument, vocal, live and recorded music applications. As such, the dsp stuff is clearly there for a wider range of applications, for people who are just using one out and about or whatever. I didn’t buy mine based on that at all. I had it set to a default flat eq and a/b’d it with a DXR10 and another. It was flat out better at bass - by a significant margin. It felt better quality and was in special so the price difference was small. I use it as a monitor with DI in from a preamp, and pass through out to the desk. I have used the “bass” setting as a stand-alone - it makes a good backup if my pedal board failed 2 mins before the gig - I’d plug straight in and get on with it. It was always bought as a small footprint easy to cart about live rig when I didn’t need to provide lots of backline heft. I have an EICH t1000 and a vanderkley 2x10 1200w cab for that. In its bag, I can carry it, and a pedalboard and a bass in one trip from car to venue, and take up virtually no space on board at all. I can point it at me directly for monitoring. Sound engineers love the fact they just plug in to it and don’t have to worry about a bass monitor. The rest of the band love it as I take up little room, don’t wash out the sound, and I even angle it towards the drummer to give him a bit more. He loves it too. Our keys player bought one for monitoring such was his enamour.

You’re going to struggle... nothing that would be similar to our concept of an electric bass today.. How about a significant birthday like 18 or 21, so 1964 or 1967?

I got nothing...

No imagination, you lot..

Shurly “Jazzcision” no?

Definitely E string - had one do it on a Precision and swapped it out - issue went. It was as if the string had just deadened out in the middle. Weird, but there you go..

I’ve sprayed a few. I find spraying stressful and oil finishes relaxing. Plus, the grain on this was too good to hide

Neck has had another coat of Tru Oil - it’s going to need a few more but I like a nice thin coat with a wet sand (oil not water) and a scuff back - makes it silky smooth

Second round done. You have to be careful with colour matching and consistency with the tinted danish oil, but otherwise it’s going on well: It’s starting to take on that nice satin sheen naturally, so I think a third round is in order and then a good drying off before some light buffing. I’m really liking the antique/old refinish look of it - sort of “stripped and refinished in the 60s” look..

Might have been an owner who had a massive spikey belt buckle...

Yes I did consider a third to allow me to get a better feel to the finish..

One bit of recycling in this project too.. I upgraded my ACG Finn 4 to a P-Retro recently - the old passive vol/tone/jack harness will be used in this project:

Small aside.. The bridge on this bass was always going to be problematic. I need heft - as I need to minimise neck dive due to lightweight body, and so a normal bent steel fender style bridge wasn't going to cut it. Similarly, I wanted black. Anyway, at the guitar show in Birmingham I went to see Grainger Guitars who sold me this rather magnificent lump of (I presume) brass which really is quite a hefty chunky thing.. It's beautifully engineered and has the right weight to it as well..

No problem at all! Good luck with it - it's pretty scary shooting that first bit of tint over a pristine daphne blue finish!

I'll rinse and repeat tomorrow with more danish oil on the body and more tru oil on the neck. Just had a look at the body and the danish oil has dried nicely. Not sure whether to do one or two more repeats... hmm..

@rubis - managed to find the other shots I was looking for just now - these are outdoor shots on the day I actually sprayed it. First one is the daphne blue as is, and then the overspray so you can see how it looks prior to ageing, relicing and so forth! And here are some outdoor shots after the relic process - it's a heavy relic as I was going for a proper battered look.. Hope that helps - if you need any more help just give me a shout.

Yes it will melt in - and it actually does - it doesn't layer at all - they melt together. Go for a very light amber tint - not a full on amber tint or it will look like algae! I drizzled mine on from a good 20" or so, and then put a few specific spots on for effect. Masking off will give you a good effect - I just masked off my pick guard and lightly attached it. It wasn't difficult at all, and it does create the effect you are after - quick coat of clear after and you are done. I did satin clear to give it a bit more authenticity. Of course, then I lacquer checked it - which is a totally new form of madness and torture all of it's own. 3 months curing the nitro and then in and out the freezer like a mad thing!

I'm a Tru Oil neck kinda guy - I like the silky smooth finish you can get with a nicely sanded Tru Oil finish. The neck for this build is a little bit different, but not much. It's a standard telecaster style headstock, but thinned a bit for extra weight relief (I have multiple tactics to stop neck dive including lighter headstock and tuners and a big fat bridge) Nut width is 44mm so big and wide. Here it is: And then after a couple of coats of Tru Oil:

Here's my daphne blue with light amber tint overspray to simulate yellowed lacquer..