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I havent see the video you are talking about.Can you post it here?

The backside of the neck is almost ready. i started to give shape in the front side of the neckthrough piece.Didnt finish it.

today,i give shape to the back of the neck.Its not finnished,and needs lot of work to be done. Its endourneck design,mr.Ola strandberg have allow me to use his patented design. Thank you very much mr.Strandberg

I dont have instaled the tuners yet. The "last fret" is missing because there will be no fret,is just the point i will sand the fretboard to give an angleso it will be lower as it goes near the pickup

Thats the reason i dont have give shape in the back of the neck. I need it thick and strong.This press can deal huge damage if i aply huge force

fotos from yesterday and today gents.. and the best one.. but first a few words. in the begiing i was thinking about 43-40" scale. then i thought,if we add 5 frets on a 34"scale bass,it goes almost 45" and that why i decide to build it 45-43. But,the truth is,45 is a huge scale length.So,i did it colossal.. 47-44" scale length!!its just enormous..

35mm long screw,2mm thick drill to open the hole,5mm thick of the screw

No.They are allen headed bolts. I didnt knew that torx bolts are better. I will try to find torx bolts and replace the allen bolts. Thank you for your advice

Ladies and gents.. i give you,my headpiece. String holes 4.2mm,string holding bolts M5,total wight (without the bolts)100 gr.Next step,paint it black.. ok.Lets get serious now. The pics.. PS. i bought new bolts,black,shorter than these and full length threaded

I like more the pasdive basses. One tone and this mostly full closed. One on-board preamp i would like to try is the passinwind. I have only one active bass,vig cobra. Artec preamp 3-band,replaced it without reason with artec 3-band+parametric mid. Sound nice. For me the best is to dial the tone from the preamp of the amp and not on-board

I like to do weird things,but the best i am doing is..ugly things..man,i could be the king of ugly things Till this day i jeep trying with the weird I cant compare my builds with yours even in my wildest dreams.you are far forward from me

I dont know how,but the links of photobucket are working and i can see the pics. Thats very nice because i dont have to do all the job again (Yes,i am little bit lazy some times)

Οk.i will upload the pics with the torzal jig again

Made the body contour and started to shape the back of the neck.Also open the pickup cavities

The fretboard is onboard now.. before sanding after sanding

I think have all of the pictures that are broken links now. You wan to post all of them (i don't know exactly what i have posted) or you wan to see a few specific pics?

Here my GF (goat friend)is helping me Just glued the maple fretboard layer and the side view

This 40" bass,soon will be my short scale.. check this out here is a pic of this In this pic,it has the normal bridge. i dont have piezo preamp on it.The piezo goes in a jack.The magnetic pickups go with these ways: parallel: the P straight to one channel in stereo jack (no vol no tone) and the mudbucker have push/pull tone (like the yamaha attitude II) and series/parallel & in/out phase and to the other channel of the stereo jack. series:i can use them in series with a toggle switch in the back side,that makes them go in series and the tone control with the other wiring affecting only the mudbucker. To compare the sound of piezo and magnetic,as i said,piezo is CLEAN.Cut everything in your EQ and boost the bass,and you have a bassy sound without booming. There is also a huge difference in the volume level

Yep,thats why its called right hand bass

Eden wtdi,enhance knob

I took of the rubber. The fretboard is nice glued on.I have to sand it in the right dimensions and then glue the maple layer up on

I have this bridge http://www.chguitars.co.uk/bridges/bass-bridges/b41-four-string-bass-piezo-bridge.html In a 40" p-bass.I was expecting a huge boom,eath moving sound,and i get a very clean sound.If i play only the piezo bridge,i can turn all the way up the bass knod,and all the way down mid and treble knobs in my amp,and stil the sound is clean

The first layer of the fretboard is glued on. I use a big rubber piece to make the fretboard follow the twist of the neck

Well..in my 40" scale p-bass,i have made a very stiff neck.Basevall but is nothing in front of this neck. But the stiffer the neck is,the harder you adjust it.We need strong,but elastic necks so we can set up our instrument easy. If it become so strong and stiff,the strings will not have the power to give the relief i need and i will have to use the truss rod to bow the neck and not to straighten it. Anyway,this is an experimental bass,so any failure is into the program from the first day this build started