SamPlaysBass

I debated this this Post-EQ DI conundrum with a local sound guru who often finds himself behind the console for our gigs. He works for Midas and does some pretty extraordinary sound stuff day to day, and his advice to me was something along the lines of: “Send me the cleanest signal you can. What you think sounds good on stage sounds sh!te out here.” Followed this advice and it’s served me well. Ideally, I’d like to send the pre-EQ signal out and it not be affected by volume differences or anything. How come Quilter didn’t put a volume control (or to that effect) on their DI? Seems a bit strange as the rest of the amp seems monstrous.

Wise gurus of Basschat! LukeFRC what’s the technical reason behind that? Or is it witchcraft?

If love to, but I don’t think I could part with a grand for a head. I’d love to try one though!

Cheers Loz, valuable insight yet again. I find the Markbass stuff generally too top end sheen-y when all is flat, but quite usable with the (stupidly high) treble frequencies rolled off to 9 o’clock. I’ve briefly used an Aggie TH350 and those sweepable mids really impressed me. I prefer that vintage slap sound (Larry Graham, Pleasure, Brothers Johnson, Chic) and the Aggie nailed it, albeit through a Markbass 1x15 cab at low volume. Going through 2 12s at full chat may be a different kettle of fish!

I’m glad you said. I was curious about the DI as I’m not 100% about it having a ground lift either? Please correct me if I’m wrong! Lots of positive reviews on the whole though, but I’m largely reliant on the DI. The output being dependent on the volume doesn’t seem ideal. Like you said, a separate DI would be the way to go.

Something's wrong with my head. But anyway, I need a new bass amp. My trusty TC RH450 has developed an intermittent fault where it stops sending the signal to the power amp. The best fix has so far been a bit of 'percussive maintenance' but I can't see it holding out much longer. Shame, because I really liked that head. Anyway. I'm looking for a small head with a fair old whack of power to tame even the most grizzly and inefficient cabs that festivals and gear-shares have to offer. It needs a wicked DI and a little tone shaping, but other bells and whistles I'm not too bothered about. So, which of the following? Aguilar Tone Hammer 500, Markbass LMTube 800, or Quilter Bass Block? I've owned a Markbass LM3 before and enjoyed it. Very bright through my TC RS112s, but utterly reliable if a bit... boring. There's a Markbass distributer 5 mins from my house - good support. I've tried Aguilar and loved it. A friend of mine runs a music shop that could sort one (or if I sweet talk him, he may even sell me his own personal one, but I'm doubtful!). 40 mins from my house. Quilter Bass Block. I've read about it and it seems amazing, but I've never tried one and probably won't until I buy one. Price is good on Thomann at the moment but I worry about support if something goes pop. Any experiences, A/B's on the above are welcome, and so are suggestions. I'd like to buy as new as possible to retain some warranty or support. It needs to be deep and rich for soul and slappy funk.

I like Markbass gear even if it isn’t perfect. The classifieds have been a God send when I’ve bought and sold MB stuff. Has anyone else noticed the price of the new MB stuff from retailers slowly going downhill? You can get a brand new 210 Standard HF for £389. That’s cheaper than a lot on the classified/Marketplace. I hope the heads come down in due course. Source: https://www.richtonemusic.co.uk/product/markbass-standard-102hf-4-2x10inch-bass-400w-speaker-cabinet/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlduLguz_4QIVSbXtCh3v5QIeEAQYAyABEgKC0vD_BwE

Return - that shouldn’t have happened! If you’ve got proof of purchase TC are good to deal with. Try the retailer and TC direct - hopefully you’ll be able to sort it between them.

I’ve had this experiende myself - I bought the RS112s years ago from Thomann when they were cheap. Kept them as backups but they always had more use than any barefaced or Ampeg cab I had and sold on. They’ve always stayed. Maybe I should try an Aguilar shaped head first...

Hi guys, In the next few months, I’m looking to upgrade my TC RH 450 and two RS112s to something a bit more Aguilar shaped. Ideally, an AG700 or TH500 head on top of two 1x12 cabs. Sonically, what are the qualities (or differences) between the lightweight SL series and the DB series? I see GS cabs floating about the classifieds as well, how do they stack up? My priorities lay with size as I have limited storage and transport space. Weight is less of an issue - modern 1x12 cabs don’t weigh tonnes and I won’t be moaning about a few kilograms. Or any other cab suggestions entirely? I can hear the ‘just be done with it and buy Barefaced’ but I’ve been down that route and it’s not for me. I’m pretty set on Aggie but unless someone can suggest otherwise. I play an American 5 string Professional Jazz trying to sound like Paul Turner (with 1% of the talent), with lashings of MM StingRay and a P bass with flats. I play an even split of DI to FOH with cabs for monitoring vs playing old social clubs and bars without any PA support.

Markbass Nano is, in my experience, louder than the TC BH250 and just as dainty. Every time I’ve used a Nano, I’ve been very impressed. However, TC has the toneprint features which are half decent and good fun. Trace Elliot Elf isn’t too shabby either, and laughably small. I know none of these are valve-y, but small things don’t tend to be. Wildcard offering could be the Bugera BV1001T - a small-ish valve pre-amp class D? In terms of driving the speaker in the combo, you can unplug the speaker cable and power from the combo head and just plug them into the back of your spare head. The speaker cables on combos generally aren’t massive, so you may have to ‘perch’ the spare head precariously on the back of the combo. You could always unscrew the combo head if you’ve got time and slot in the spare one!

Regarding if TC are replacing the RS line - I’ve been emailing TC support looking for some spares for my RH450 and enquired about any new series or updates to the RS series. As far as the person I emailed was aware, they are not looking to update the series, and they don’t seem to be giving any clues away if they’re going to be replacing it either. Shame, as they are great amps and cabs. The design is over 10 years old now, but still some of the best I’ve ever used. On a side note, did anyone else notice that all the TC pedals dropped quite suddenly in price on Thomann in January? They seem to have gone back up now, but TC must’ve been having a big clear out.

+1 for EMG Geezer Butlers. I had a Squire Chris Aiken P bass which I bought as a project off Facebook. The previous owner had made his own loom and wasn’t the best with a soldering iron, so the tone pot didn’t work and it wasn’t great. Whacked in the GZR set as it came with a new solderless loom. Installation was easy, pots feel good and the sound... a fantastic, rich and slightly dark sounding with a big vintage nod. A fantastic upgrade with a very noticeable improvement in sound. Very pleased.

Sire V7 Marcus Miller 5 string. Again, it’s not hate, but disappointment. I’d read all the rave reviews on forums and waited patiently as the back order was filled and eventually it arrived. I told myself it was as great as the reviews made it out to be, but I genuinely expected a £1000+ instrument for £300. What I had was a £300 instrument for £300. The neck finish was sticky, it had paint defects that had been touched up badly and the chunkiest neck I’d ever played. Sounded great and the EQ section was clever, but really it was very average. Maybe a tad below average, but the pickups and EQ helped it out a lot. Sold it after a year and after buying a Fender Jazz Professional 5, which is my favourite bass of all time. Also, Ibanez SR500. It was devoid of any personality. Despite its Bartolini pickups and beautiful finish, it was just a few pieces of wood with some wires attached. My Mexican Jazz on the other hand was pure magic by comparison even with a crappy bridge and pickups. You can change those but you can’t give a personality transplant. Lastly, G&L L2000. Technically brilliant, but hard work to play (awkward nut, chunky neck) and pickups that could set fire to preamps. Not hate, I just don’t think I was the right player for that bass.

Very curious about these amps at this price. From your description, I’m gathering it be driven just a lil’ bit without having a pedal in front? And Is the compressor usable? And whilst I’m at it, what is the DI like? I remember the old Terror Bass having a DI that could set fire to desks made of brimstone!

I started with an Ashdown Mag 300, which was just about portable but not loud enough. Bought a Trace 4x10 combo which although weighing 4 metric tonnes, was louder and actually much more practical - wheels on the bottom turned it into a trolley for everyone else’s crap to be loaded in on. Bought a Barefaced Compact and a TecAmp Puma so I could be portable, but the TecAmp wasn’t longed for this workd and developed a fault. Replaced it with an LM3. Barefaced didn’t do it for me, so I sold it and bought a 4x10 SVT HE. Now I’m looking to go full valve... In between, I’ve kept a couple of TC RS112s to run the LM3, but I much prefer heavy stuff. Perhaps I’m into pain? Also, big heavy stuff is pleasingly cheap at the minute!

Can you run the BTA through an 8 ohm cab or is the minimum load 4 ohms?