shoulderpet

Always been curious about Bart's, one day I will get some

Thanks for the replies all, am hoping someone with expy can chime in, I have seen this p bass body Gear4music p bass from Gear4music and the price is good and it seems to be finished already but the neck pocket is only 61mm wide, the neck I am looking at fitting is 63.4mm so I think realistically to get the neck to fit I am probably looking at widening the neck pocket 3-4mm, is it going to be difficult to widen the pocket this much, am I letting myself in for a major ball ache if I purchase this p bass body and have to widen the neck pocket that much ?

Thanks for the replies, very helpful Another thing I have noticed that is odd is that most of the aftermarket p bass bodies have 61 or 62mn neck pockets but most p bass necks have a heel width of 63 or 64mm, what gives?

Am thinking of putting together a parts p bass and have seen unfinished p bass bodies with no finish at all applied to the wood for dirt cheap. I know with bass necks they need to be finished to keep out moisture etc, what about bass bodies? Can you get away with not finishing them? I was thinking of getting an unfinished body and just applying some wax or similar to prevent it from getting grubby I live in a very small studio flat and don't have a garage, shed or workshop to do finishes That being said I suppose I could finish in a clear varnish and do one side of the body at a time

I love metal but don't know a lot of Doom metal but I would say this song is essential listening [YouTube]

Honestly I would invest the money in a refret, maybe stainless steel frets, might not be worth it on a cheap bass but on an American Standard I think it is worth it

I've gone the opposite way, I used to love flats and I would use them and very occasionally tapewounds but I find that most bass amps are eq'd to be very bass heavy with much less emphasis on mids and treble even with flat eq and the flats made this even more apparent, add to this that I enjoy the occasional open mic/jam night where you are pretty much stuck with however the host has there amp eq'd

+1 to this, I use stainless rounds and change them once a month

Very interesting thread, have never played a P/P setup but would love to, have just recently wired my p bass in parallel and quite liking the tone, the p pickup is a Duncan SPB-2 which sounds good in parallel as it's DC resistance is around 22k so it still sounds pretty meaty in parallel

Tone when detuning is such a strange thing, I tried a 105 Roto bass also and it was ok but there was a definite degradation in the tone compared to my 95-40 Rotos tuned to E, even more oddly the 95 gauge E sounded better in D than the 105 E, the 105 E sounded great in E standard btw.

Yes ...imo

You don't need enough low end to make people s!!t themselves, the amount of bands I have seen where the bass is just a subsonic rumble with no definition. Guitarists who boost there low end should be beaten with the item guitars, the amount of times I have played music with guitar players who seem to think the guitar should have as much low end as the bass. Satin necks are awful, dreadful things and even worse when they are that awful deathly pale shade A £500 bass is essentially a £250 bass with very marginally better quality control Fender player series basses are pretty much £250 Squiers with a Fender logo

I like Duran Duran too

Tuning down to D is roughly the same as going down about 2 gauges (and about 3 gauges for the D) so I would recommend 110-50 or a 115 D if you can find it unless you particularly like very low tension strings

Would that work? I thought that would just wear away the finish

Doesn't seem to help Hofner 😂 (Thats not a dig I actually quite like Hofner's but they were never known for there intonation

What are they like? Not a lot of reviews about for them, I like a bright aggressive tone with p basses and always wondered if these would be the magic bullet

You got lucky there, with mine I have to remove the neck, tried removing the scratch plate but it needs just a fraction of a mm more space to adjust the truss rod, the only bass feature on an otherwise incredible bass. Edit: that being said I have only tried adjusting with one of the truss rod keys designed for a body access truss rod, I wonder if a screwdriver would allow me to adjust it

Yeah the necks on the Vintera's are lovely, you would think such a wide neck would be really slow but they are hands down the nicest necks on a production bass that I have played and that lovely amber tinted gloss. I also appreciate the high ratio tuners on the Vintera, I know a lot of people are fine with cheaper tuners but I much prefer these, they are rock solid.

No I dont sweat a lot practicing at home, gigging is a different story and I have had a few gigs where the venue has been stupidly hot

No, since covid gigging has been a lot more infrequent, this is a month of regular practice but no gigs

I was quite excited about the NYXLs initially as they sounded quite bright and growly when new but I am really not a fan of there broken in tone, there is something in the high mids that I just can't dial out. They also went dead within a month which is fine for a £20 set of Rotos but I kind of expect more from a £35 set of strings

Thanks, I would sand it down and refinish but it has a maple fretboard so that could be a bit of a nightmare to take the finish off and have to be wary of the frets

I have recently got myself a Harley Benton jb-75 jazz bass, sounds fantastic, I have definitely discovered that I love the tone of a jazz bass however the one thing that irks me about it is the satin finish neck, I absolutely detest satin necks, look cheap, feel cheap, just yuck!!! Anyway the I have some high frets causing some fret buzz and I figured I may as well just get a new neck seeing how I hate the satin finish, I prefer a p bass neck profile so I am thinking of ordering a p bass neck and was wondering if there would be any issues using a p bass neck? I mean they are both around the same width by the time they get to the neck pocket right? Thanks

Yeah it's funny that they call that there light set, I remember reading somewhere that someone had managed to get tension info from them and said that the "light" set were over 180ibs tension wise, not all that light really