MartinB

A decent comparison here, starting around 10:24:

The Pedalnetics stuff is really nice, but I built myself this for under a tenner 😁 The volume knob fits into a hole in the back - I only use it for the headphone level, so I don't need access when gigging. - 66.5 x 31.5 x 20mm box (RX2KL07) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121941168040 - Momentary footswitch https://www.bitsboxuk.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=116_128&products_id=3060 - Flat patch cable https://www.thomann.co.uk/harley_benton_fpc10_flat_patch_cable.htm

When a band plays over their allotted time, sometimes the sound person will shut them off - but sometimes they won't, and every band after them has to cut their sets short. Either way, there's no excuse for it. I can't control other bands, but I can make damn sure that my band are not being arseholes. Be the change you want to see in the world! 😁 I use mine as a timer - it resets to 00:00 whenever it's switched on, so it always shows how many minutes have elapsed since then.

On one of my other basses I replaced the stock tuners with Gotoh GB640s - but at the same time I replaced the bridge (standard Fender-type BBOT) with a heavier Gotoh 201B-4. The end result was that the total weight of the bass barely changed - but since what I'd lost at the headstock I'd added at the bridge, the balance was much improved. I'd have done the same with this one, but it's already my heaviest bass and I didn't want to add any more weight! 😅 Even with just the combination of lighter tuners and a strap with some grip on the shoulder, it's become more comfortable to play.

Nice! I made myself a similar board clock a few years back. I've been thinking about making a box to sit next to my HX Stomp to hold two auxillary switches, plus an input for an optional expression pedal - I might migrate the clock unit to it, since it's going to have some spare space between the switches.

The eagle-eyed among you may have spotted that there's no 4+1 set available from Retrovibe. I imagine that you if you asked David nicely, he'd sort you out - but I didn't, because I wanted to test a theory. While looking for affordable lightweight tuners, I also came across these: Allparts TK-7567-010 There's not a lot of information provided - in particular the expected headstock hole size - but they looked quite similar to the Retrovibe ones. So I took a punt on a single left-handed one. And sure enough: I'm would imagine these are the same model too: https://shoppartsland.com/kg700-r4-cr-p127/ Anyway - Retrovibe is still the best place to go for these, and they came with screws that felt less flimsy than the Allparts ones. Just wanted to share this extra info to help anyone fruitlessly googling the dimensions of the Allparts ones in the future 😄

Here's my Squier Vintage Modified Precision Bass V: The neck is fairly chunky, and though I wouldn't necessarily describe it as divey, it's definitely not perfectly balanced. Each tuner + bushing + screws weighs 93g: What if they weighed... less? Enter Retrovibe UltraLite tuners! https://retrovibe.co.uk/product/retrovibe-ultralite-bass-tuning-machine-heads-clover-leaf-or-lollipop-only-224g-per-set/ 57g each, that's more like it! 180g less in total, which doesn't sound like much in the grand scheme of things - but every little helps when it's at the end of a long lever. Much like Hipshot Licensed 1/2" tuners, these are designed for a 3/8" (16mm) hole - but the Squier's are more like 17-and-a-bit-mm. There are metal adapters available, but they're a bit spendy for what you get. My alternative: a small sample piece of maple veneer from eBay, and cutting a strip to fit neatly around the circumference of each hole. This reduces them enough to give a nice snug fit on the bushings. There are only two screws needed for each tuner, and they're not close enough to the existing screw holes to cause problems. 2mm drill bit for the pilot holes; wax on the screw threads before fitting them, as they're tiny and the hard maple is at risk of snapping them. Et voilà! Is it life-changingly better? No. Is it marginal improvement that makes this bass slightly less unwieldy? Undoubtedly!

I built many a PC with parts from Scan back in the day

As above, if you want flat response with rolled-off highs, the Low and High Cut EQ block should do the job. Or the high cut control in the Parametric EQ block, or global EQ, which behave the same. If the roll-off isn't steep enough for you, you could try the high cut in the IR block instead - you can use this "empty" without an IR file loaded. Low/high block = green IR block = blue Both set to 6 kHz

Yeah for sure. For the OP's Stomp XL, it's pretty short at maximum of 2048 samples (< 50ms) - which is probably why the Line 6 docs only describe it for use as a cab sim, although people do routinely use it for acoustic instrument captures as well. It's just not going to be much good for a cathedral reverb 😄

It can't be that much cheaper - I've got three Chinese Squiers and none of them has a skunk stripe

Check how much space you've got - if it's tight, you might want to hold on for the more compact version 4 to be available in the UK:

Essentially just an EQ curve that matches the sound of putting a specific microphone in a specific position in front of a specific speaker cabinet. The green wiggly line is a Helix Cab > Single block for an Ampeg 4x10 cabinet, which uses a built-in IR. The blue smooth line is a Helix EQ > Parametric block with an approximation of the same overall frequency response. They should sound broadly similar - they're just different tools for the same job. IRs can be a bit more characterful because they've got all those little peaks and notches at different frequencies. An EQ-based "cabinet" can give you a bit more fine control. Settings for both blocks are below if you want to try them out:

If you approach it the other way around, flat EQ on the MojoMojo at 25-50% Drive is roughly equivalent to Bass 11:00, Treble 8:30 on the Spark at 100% Gain. It's not quite as close this way - the MojoMojo has a little more going on between 500Hz-3kHz, and a little less > 3kHz.

The Spark at 100% Gain and the MojoMojo at 25-30% Drive sound pretty close, if you tweak the EQ on the MojoMojo a bit. The Spark is slightly less compressed. Spark / Mode "Clean" / Gain 5:00 (max) / Bass & Treble 12:00 (flat) 1 Spark.mp3 MojoMojo / Voice "Up" / Drive 10:30 / Bass 1:00 / Treble 4:15 1 MojoMojo.mp3 Spark (settings as above) 2 Spark.mp3 MojoMojo (settings as above) 2 MojoMojo.mp3